I know it sounds silly, but have you checked the tyre pressures? overinflation can also produce these symptoms, my last F2 was handed over to me with 60PSI in all four tyres

Yep - checked that the other day and they were spot on. Tried the spare (steel space saver) and it felt better. When at it's worst the steering does seem light - holding the steering wheel lightly you can see it moving left and right - never hold its position in a straight line and then starts to veer off to the left.

Get down to the local tyre garage and have the tyres taken off each wheel to check that they haven't warped, happend on a friends car years ago when the faulty tyre ws taken off the rim is was almost a figure of 8 shaped  ______________________
2011 Full Fat RR 4.4 TDV8
2012 FL2 SD4 Auto HSE
2013 Kawasaki Versys 650

Did you ever find out the problem,

Mine TD4 is doing the same, i had the wheels balanced and it still feels lumpy.

In dealers at minute and they have said the engine is the problem, which has got me worried sick. Gone S383 ABA Freelander 2.0 XEDI Rioja Red
Gone NT02 CUA Freelander 2.0 TD4 ES Blue
Gone ND06 URU Freelander 2.0 TD4 Rimini Red
Gone NA56 VJN Freeelander 2.0 TD4 Black
HERE OE07 JRX Freelander 2.2 TD4 XS Rimini

Hi, no not really got this sorted. The lease company took the car back (after the dealer failed to provide any support on the problem) and had all wheels rebalanced - one that had a new tyre fitted was miles off weight wise. Got the car back and it felt better, but not 100% sorted. Went back to lease company and they have now lost interest and suggest I need to get a local dealer to experience the problem - which is where I started off trying to get this sorted.

Can't report futher as the FL2 is currently in the garage having a new rear bumper (car has now been gone a week!) thanks to a kind fiesta running into the back of me a few weeks ago whilst I was stationary at traffic lights. The FL2 came off with only minor damage. The other car looked far worse. I'll report further when I get the car bak on the wheel wobble.

Mine has similar symptoms as reported here earlier. They will be having it next week in to check each axle and shaft on the car, and replace if necessary.

Dealership seems to agree that's a misbalanced shaft or a bent axle. 2010 Freelander 2 Select TD4 auto....gone
2011 Freelander 2 TD4 auto ...current

Mine has been in garage for a few days with the same problem.

Initially thought it was fueling issue and changed the derv filter, now appears to be drive shaft.

Getting back on thursday so will keep you informed Gone S383 ABA Freelander 2.0 XEDI Rioja Red
Gone NT02 CUA Freelander 2.0 TD4 ES Blue
Gone ND06 URU Freelander 2.0 TD4 Rimini Red
Gone NA56 VJN Freeelander 2.0 TD4 Black
HERE OE07 JRX Freelander 2.2 TD4 XS Rimini

Have exactly the same problem. It has gotten so bad that I feel car sick even after driving for a couple of miles. Dealership checked suspension though not the axles I guess. They took it to an MOT test center and they said everything was fine. So now they say it is the tires that need replacement. My tires probably do need replacement but I don't think they should cause that much of a problem.
I am also having the feeling that my auto gearbox is not functioning properly probably causing this effect or worsening it. It feels like gears are not changing when they should or the gear change causes some rocking to the vehicle. It is really troubling and don't know how to sort it out.
I have nearly 40,000 km on the car and have gone through many visits to the service center for various issues. Dealership has dealt with pretty much everything they could except from a grinding noise that occurs when accelerating at moderate speeds. The LR position (as told by the dealer) is that this is a"characteristic of the vehicle" which I am not buying as the noise was not there for the first 6 months of the life of the car. They even suggested that the noise was there but I did not notice it. This issue is ongoing for the past 18months with no solution.

Hi,

Since a few weeks I've noticed a rumble/vibration like mentioned here and in other posts. It seemed to come from the RHS rear at the time. After replacing the rear tires to the front (not crossed but same side front to rear and vice vers) I thought the vabriation moved also to the front. I allready had checked the LR2 (MY07) with the dealer and they said after a short testdrive that everything is OK and the vibration was caused by the tires.

To eliminate the vibration I had all 4 tires checked. The tire which was originally located on the rear RHS had some "cupping" but not very bad. To make sure I've had all 4 tires trimmed (make them perfectly round) and balanced. The rumble/vibration was slightly less but still there. Due to having perfect round tires the tire/road noise was way less and because of the less noise I now think the rumble is originated on the front LHS. It becomes best noticeable from 80 to 120km/h. At higher speeds it's also there but then wind noise will take over the rumble/vibration noise. At lower speeds it is also noticeable but not at "irritating" level.

It seems that the frequency of the rumble in and decreases with the speed (not engine revs) and it does not make a difference whether I keep the car in gear (manual gear box) or not at that speed.

Does anybody have ideas regarding the cause of this rumble/vibration and are the wheels somehow "cross connected (fron LHS to rear RHS)? According to the dealer it's not the dif or Halex. can it be the gear box, driveshaft, some kind of rubber mountings?


Are any of the mentioned "wobbles" solved by now?
Best regards,
Richard

I had exact same symptons on my 2007 TD4

First I balanced the wheels, did not stop it, check tyre pressures did not stop.

Booked into Service centre and after a couple of days they diagnoised a faulty fuel filter!

Problem return again when engine warmed up. Finally found out it was a driveshaft.

Best get it booked in! Gone S383 ABA Freelander 2.0 XEDI Rioja Red
Gone NT02 CUA Freelander 2.0 TD4 ES Blue
Gone ND06 URU Freelander 2.0 TD4 Rimini Red
Gone NA56 VJN Freeelander 2.0 TD4 Black
HERE OE07 JRX Freelander 2.2 TD4 XS Rimini

Had it booked in for 135k km service this week and obviously to sort the wobble/vibration. It seems to me that the fuel filter is exchanged and I do not find this very likely to cause the vibration (however cold starting below -5, is hard). As I also have some vibration in the gear lever while pulling away in 1st gear they diagnosed a faulty dual mass flywheel in combination with a clutch repair. This should also cause the wobble at speeds exceeding 80 km/h. I'm still not to sure this will cause the vibrations and I'm not to keen on having the flywheel and clutch replaced because it was quoted for approx 2000 euros.

I also have a bad multi belt tensioner which could cause vibrations....

Which shaft caused your vibrations????

best regards,
Richard

The dealer here could not sort mine so some friction between my lawyer and the dealership and importer resulted in an agreement of replacing the car with a new one. I am waiting now for the replacement car to arrive.

I hope the next car does not have the same vibration.

Neither the replacement of haldex nor driveshafts did cure mine. 2010 Freelander 2 Select TD4 auto....gone
2011 Freelander 2 TD4 auto ...current

It would be prudent to check the inner joints of the rack as this would cause exactly the issue described. Then check the wheel bearings for movement. Tyres at 60 psi on delivery I think is the pressure they are set to for delivery so should have been corrected on the PDI.

Have the dealers asked for assistance from land Rover?

anyone got any further with this? mine has similar issues. 2007 GS 50K miles.

at low speeds the steering wheel shimmies from side to side by an inch or so. it's like constantly going over a really uneven rd.

i've had the wheels balanced and swapped front to back and had those balanced as well - nothing changes.

i went into ats this morning and mentioned it and asked to get the tracking checked. they said it wouldnt be the tracking and balanced the wheels instead. as i mentioned above - no change.

someone mentioned drive shafts - which one etc....

Get whoever is looking at it to first check for play in the front wheel bearings and then to check the run out of the front discs and the hub!!!

Then look at all joints on the lower arm!