A friend of mine has an 60 plate SD4 HSE. It has had it a year now and it has always bugged him that it is 187bhp (190PS). "Why not make it 200" he asks.

So in typical Ryan style he starts to mess. But in a way that Land Rover won't throw their toys out of the pram over warranties etc.

So he installed an i6 rear silencer assembly to improve the flow of the exhaust. From my own experience, this does work. Then he looked at the airbox and inlet track.

The airbox has restrictors inside so these were removed and a K&N Panel air filter was fitted. I think he had to trace the airbox to a Ford model to get the filter as he could not find one listed for Freelander 2.

Once this was done, off to a 4 wheel drive rolling road and the result was 197bhp (200PS), still not happy so a switch over to V-Power diesel and a 1000 miles later, on the rolling road again and 201bhp and an additional 6 lb/ft torque. OK, 4bhp from the fuel may seem a little high, but you also ahve to consider temperature changes when doing a rolling road session.

He has actually rang Land Rover and told them what he had done to ensure his warranty is not void. At first they were not too happy until he managed to speak to one of the development engineers. As he had stated that all he had done is improve the breathing and not touched anything else he was told that his warranty will remain intact.

Unless................ He has a failure that is PROVEN to be a consiquence of the changes, which they say is unlikey.

So he is a happy bunny now to have a 200bhp SD4!

I am looking to install the complete SD4 inlet track on to my TD4, it seems to be alot simpler and more direct. Freelander 2 HSE Lux 2013MY - Barolo Black with Ivory Leather. Alpine DVD - Privacy -Evoque 20" Dynamic Wheels and more to come.........

Very interesting. Keep us posted on developments and any supplier part numbers for the bits required  ______________________
2011 Full Fat RR 4.4 TDV8
2012 FL2 SD4 Auto HSE
2013 Kawasaki Versys 650

like his work!!!!

Very interesting to me too. I was wondering if there may be a chance of using a K&N filter. Some years ago, I modified my MGB (now gone) by fitting K&N filters plus a SS exhaust which had a straight-through expansion box and silencer. First of all it ran with hesitation and flat spots. My investigation revealed the SUs were running excessively weak. Clearly the K&Ns and exhaust had cleaned up the airflow so much the carbs needed an upgrade to match. A change to rich needles transformed it! Noticeable power upgrade and plenty of bottom end torque. It would accelerate from 1000 rpm in top gear willingly where previously bottom end power was lacking. More economical too. I never did put it on a rolling road to check, but it certainly felt a lot better. You have now got me thinking! 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

All this thought to get it to 200bhp! But then again I can't talk! I am going to put mine on the rollers to see what it is like. But I am going for the SD4 inlet as it does appear alot better. Freelander 2 HSE Lux 2013MY - Barolo Black with Ivory Leather. Alpine DVD - Privacy -Evoque 20" Dynamic Wheels and more to come.........

i noticed no difference at all when i ran a K&N, its now back in the box waiting on been cleaned and i am using a new LR paper filter Former Mod/Member, with the most post & Chicken George Arch nemesis

Is that rolling road properly calibrated?
Which is its error tolerance?
Because 4 bhp at 200 bhp mark, means 2% error, which is pretty normal...

alex_pescaru wrote:

Is that rolling road properly calibrated?
Which is its error tolerance?
Because 4 bhp at 200 bhp mark, means 2% error, which is pretty normal...

Why all the bother when SD has transient overboost which takes you over 200 bhp for a few seconds during acceleration. All FL2's (3) Gone
2011 Mercedes C180 CGI Gone
FL2 GS Auto SD with heated leather, factory tints, alloy spare and a few other bits.

Right, I forgot about that.... The auto ones have this...
Maybe that was it, and the friend thought that it gained it from his modifications...

Each to their own, but it seems that finding more BHP in a Freelander is about relevant as trying to improve the ground clearance and off road capability of my Focus RS...

Personally, I find the "mere" 150bhp on my TD4 to be just about right for the limits of handling available and if anything, I'd like to reduce the BHP figure and attempt to fill the hole in the torque curve beneath 1400rpm that makes it all to easy to stall in stop start traffic...

Tigger wrote:

Each to their own, A Focus RS is about relevant as the mud on a potato

Personally, I find 150bhp on my TD4 to be just about pathetic and I shall be looking at a RRS soon.

Manual gearboxes are easy to stall in stop start traffic when you live in Cornwall and fear machines of any kind

I do agree though squeezing out a few extra bhp in a fl2 does seem a little unneeded At work
At home

"I can't always believe facts I read on the web" - Charles Dickens

winner by default of the tractor vs caravan race

After owning a Toyota with 110kW for a long time and various test drives on the TD4, I can assure you that there is a difference with the "modified" SD4. It may seem insignificant to some, but the extra "oomph" you feel when overtaking on a country road with a camper trailer on the back makes a big difference. It's more about confidence I suspect, though this is only attained when the motor delivers what you expect. I did over 720Klm today in wet, hilly country where the roads were very poor. When overtaking opportunities presented themselves there was no time to wonder whether the FL2 had the "Oomph" to get the job done. There were no problems there and a few surprised truckies as well - "What the F??<$% was that!"