npinks - definately your phone that caused the problem!

I had exactly the same thing happen a couple of years ago, i was on my phone via bluetooth, whilst still on the phone i got home and switched off engine but left the fob in the holder and was still speaking on bluetooth, finished call, took fob out, locked up, everything fine. Next morning opened doors put fob in, pressed the start button and got clicking and numerous lights on dash. AA man came out and battery was flat, he checked absolutely everything that could cause the battery to go flat (ie boot light staying on when boot is shut etc etc) and found no problem and suggested it could be that the bluetooth hadnt shut down correctly.

I always leave the engine running now until I finish a call, make sure it has disconnected then switch off engine, never happened again! Now - 2017 BMW X3 M Sport Carbon Black
Gone - 2014 BMW X3 M Sport Space Grey, faultless!
Gone - 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Bali Blue with xenons
Gone - 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Rimini Red with bodykit

Had exactly the same with mine when it was 2 weeks old. Did a 120 mile round trip journey and next morning wouldn't start, key fob stuck in slot and lights on dash. I called LR Assist and an AA man was despatched who immediately identified flat battery, recharged it and it's been fine ever since.

Still not sure what caused the problem - could have been bluetooth not fully disconnecting but more likely car did not shut down fully after trip and there was a sufficient drain on the battery to flatten it overnight. Now always double lock the car which forces a complete shutdown of all electrical systems.

Did you saw and know about this?
http://www.freel2.com/forum/post111721.html#111721

it's fine to charge the battery without disconnecting. The reason why the handbook recommends it is because some chargers are switchable 12/24 volt. Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.

Hi Alex

thanks for the pm. I would like to advise as follows:

Charging a battery fully with an alternator is not possible - period.

Modern cars with their multitude of electronics need a regular charge with an "intelligent" battery charger such as CTEK. As I have no financial interests in CTEK in the UK, I can make these statements on this forum without being accused of trying to peddlie something.

With any CTEK charger, battery can remain connected during whole charge and also during longterm maintenance charging.

I have best experiences with applying a charge every 6 weeks in summer and 4 weeks in winter. This works and gets rid of the early morning blues. With kind regards
DiscoGeorge
1998 Disco1 ES 300Tdi with twin TrueTracs
2005 Disco3 TDV6 S
And some more serious stuff

Ok I'm probably going over old ground here but ....
A charge every 4 weeks in winter: What CTEK output in amps would I need for that and for how long would it need to be charging to be successfull in keeping the battery at its peak.

That charge, once in a month, is for "topping up" the battery and in that zone (end of fully charge) there are special needs (current/voltages/temperatures). Usually it's an area with low currents, high temperatures, high gassing.
So, any good CTEK charger, for example XS4003 or XS7000, will do just fine.
But you can search the net for these chargers and download their manuals.
Usually they are in PDF format and there you'll find all the informations you need.
Here, for example:
http://www.mdsbattery.co.uk/datasheets/XS4003.pdf
http://www.mdsbattery.co.uk/datasheets/XS7000.pdf

If the voltage regulator on the car has been set correctly then the alternator will fully charge the battery - period.
Reading the problems that people are having on here sounds like there could be some faulty regulators out there. ______________________
2011 Full Fat RR 4.4 TDV8
2012 FL2 SD4 Auto HSE
2013 Kawasaki Versys 650

Dave wrote:

If the voltage regulator on the car has been set correctly then the alternator will fully charge the battery - period.