I have had two starting problems in the four years I have had the car (07 plate).
The first was when it was around 6 months old. The information display sort of crashed on inserting the key, black lines all across it, and the car didnt do anything when I pressed the start button. Battery disconnect reboot fixed this.

fast forward to this month. First thing I noticed was that one of the rear doors (just one) did not unlock and could not be unlocked from inside either - deadlock still engaged I assume. I thought I would worry about that later and went to start the car. I put the key in, it made all of the usual noises, I pressed the button and clunk but no start. Tried again, clunk, no start.
SatNav and radio would not come on either.
Disconnected and reconnected battery. SatNav came on but clunk, no start.

Odd. Maybe a flat battery, so I called a friend who has a starting boster and after connecting that, the car started immediately.

So, the obvious conclusion is flat or low battery, but I hadn't left anything on and it had only been sitting there for around 12 hours overnight. I did leave my phone charger plugged in to the rear power socket, but that is always left plugged in.

Strange indeed. It's been fine since, I have left it as long as 48 hours. I am guessing that maybe the deadlock is a clue - possibly got stuck engaging and kept trying, draining the battery? Or is the deadlock connected to the immobiliser and my poorly battery didn't have enough juice to disengage?

I think the rear powerpoint is wired so it is permanently ON, unlike the front one which is ignition controlled. So your charger will be a drain on the battery..... JT Upgraded to an ex demo, 7 mth old, Rimini Red/Ebony Napoli Auto HSE on 28th Jan 2011, added roof rails, mudflaps and side strips.
Gone - A great 57 Plate, Auto SE, Bought Feb 2009, Roof Rails and Mudflaps added on purchase. Blue colour, anything but drug dealer black.....

julytourist wrote:

I think the rear powerpoint is wired so it is permanently ON, unlike the front one which is ignition controlled. So your charger will be a drain on the battery..... JT

In my previous car a phone charger plugged into the front socket managed to come apart and in some way flatten the battery, charger discovered to be in bits after LR Assist had jump started car. Socket then would not work, fixed by dealer, probably just the fuse. Ever since I have taken care with chargers!, JT Upgraded to an ex demo, 7 mth old, Rimini Red/Ebony Napoli Auto HSE on 28th Jan 2011, added roof rails, mudflaps and side strips.
Gone - A great 57 Plate, Auto SE, Bought Feb 2009, Roof Rails and Mudflaps added on purchase. Blue colour, anything but drug dealer black.....

I think it was a dodgy connection between the positive and negative terminals and the booster being put on merely disturbed the terminals and it started.

I had a problem when it wouldnt start, the AA came out, cleaned the spotless terminals and hey presto it worked.

belti wrote:

Hello Bryan,

Sorry to read about your problems. You problem description does sound similar to mine although I never managed to start mine again unless I disconnect the battery.

To be honest I think my problem was solved perhaps by mistake. I say solved with all my fingers and toes crossed, because it hasn't occurred since mid-January whereas before it was a 3-4 time a week reoccurrence.

I'll share what happened. The LR mechanics from the local importer tried to replace the instrument cluster and the new part basically died on them during programming. They couldn't get it to work and LR UK mentioned that the new part was probably faulty and told them to get another one. Meanwhile to make sure they followed the procedure they reprogrammed my old instrument cluster and that worked. This apparently solved the problem unknowingly, cos I got it back and has been fine ever since.

If you're still having problems in August I'd be happy to meet with you and exchange ideas.

Hope this helps.

Bilti
You mention that you also have some steering lock problems.
If so, then you need to take this up with your dealer immediately.
The steering lock mechanism has a connection with the fuel isolation, hence if there is something wrong with the steering lock, you will not be able to start your car.

Try adding new ground connection between battery and engine. This solved my problems with engine starting and bc resetting.

Sebba92 wrote:

Try adding new ground connection between battery and engine. This solved my problems with engine starting and bc resetting.

Any recommendations as to where best to connect to the engine? 2002 Honda VFR800
2002 Toyota Celica 140 Silver (mid life crisis - again!)
2007 FL2 GS Manual Army Reconnaissance Green + freel2.com sticker
2004 Toyota Celica 140 Black - Gone
2000 Toyota Celica 140 Silver - Gone
1998 Toyota Celica ST Pearl Green - Gone
1996 Nissan Primera 1.6 - Gone
1994 Rover Montego 1.6 Auto - Gone

Check Oldgeezers gallery.....

I've done it also

S555 wrote:

julytourist wrote:

I think the rear powerpoint is wired so it is permanently ON, unlike the front one which is ignition controlled. So your charger will be a drain on the battery..... JT

yes it is, but it hasn't drained my battery before and have had it plugged in for months. I doubt it draws much when not plugged in to a phone. Unless it is faulty. Come to think of it... I haven't had it plugged in since the fault.

Worth noting that the charging adapters are essentially tiny voltage convertors (or step down transformer) which takes the cars 12v and reduces to 5v (or whatever your phone requires) If the phone isn't plugged in then it is still doing its voltage conversion.

This is true of any power adaptor used in the house, office or car..... 2002 Honda VFR800
2002 Toyota Celica 140 Silver (mid life crisis - again!)
2007 FL2 GS Manual Army Reconnaissance Green + freel2.com sticker
2004 Toyota Celica 140 Black - Gone
2000 Toyota Celica 140 Silver - Gone
1998 Toyota Celica ST Pearl Green - Gone
1996 Nissan Primera 1.6 - Gone
1994 Rover Montego 1.6 Auto - Gone

Any recommendations as to where best to connect to the engine?[/quote]

I've done it like oldgeezer, I only choose better accessible bolt between gearbox end engine, but of course it should be as close to the starter as possible.

[/quote]Worth noting that the charging adapters are essentially tiny voltage convertors (or step down transformer) which takes the cars 12v and reduces to 5v (or whatever your phone requires) If the phone isn't plugged in then it is still doing its voltage conversion.

This is true of any power adaptor used in the house, office or car.....[/quote]

I didn't know that but makes sense though. oo! Shiney!
____________________________________________
55 Nissan Navara SE Black - My Toy.
08 Freelander 2 XS Santorini Black - Her Majesty's Toy.

on the old Rover 75's if you left anything plugged in to the lighter sockets, it used to stop the can system from completely shutting down and 2-3 days later the battery would be dead.

I have the same click noise and if it clicks it starts - if it does not click it will not start
My local garage ran a error code check B1026 - steering lock

did you get this resolved