So after weeks of issues with the interior lights and about 200 fuses later, i have found the fault!!!! yeahhhh!!

It continued blowing fuses, so i put a 30amp fuse in today, and moved the sterring wheel as i got in and could hear a arking noise, so with a bit of investigation, it turned out to be the back of the footwell light bulb holder. The live wire has rubbed agaisnt the steering collum coursing it to short out!!

Such a releif to finaly find the problem, may be worth checking out incase you ever come across the problem!

well done, good job

"so i put a 30amp fuse in today" That was not the brightest thing to do. I take it you do know why there are fuses in the car in the first place ???.
YOUR DAM LUCKY you didnt burn out every part of that circuit and or set fire to your car. I would NOT ADVISE anyone else to try that. Fuses are there as the weekest link there for will blow in the advent of incressed currant flow due to overload or a direct short. Fuses primarely protect the wiring of that circuit from damage.
I strongly suggest if you have another fault where fuses are blowing to look at what makes the fuse blow ie if you turn on lights etc then the fuse blows to check all light fittings on that circuit, check for corrosion accross contacts, anywhere were cables pass through the bulkhead.
As a rule most wiring faults are usualy easy to find and are mostly simple things to rectify. As you have now found your fault, some simple basic steps in logical order would have saved you the amount of fuses you have gone through. fuses are not too cheap too.

30amp is a bit extreme but i'm pleased you found the problem

Yes know all about fuses being a sparky too!!!! The fault being intermittent did not help!!

it was orginally blowing 30 amp fuses tho, also that circuit has a 60amp fuse under the bonnett. Plan B was to connect a headlight bulb to the circuit and do it that way, and if the car caught fire i would not of cared!!!!

I went throught the car logiically with electrical fault finding kit, but as it was down to earth i had no joy!!

Work bought my fuses, So blowing a few fuses has saved me paying a autoelectrician £45p/h!!

I once watched some one replace a fuse for a radio in an older car " ford if my memory serves" I told them not to do it but they didnt listen. He carried on and it took seconds, a lot of smoke then fire and that was the end of his car.
The fire brigade were not impressed when he told them and his insurance wouldnt pay out either. After all that he didnt try that again

The 60 amp fuse is a 'slow blow' fuse. It's there to protect the larger size cable underbonnet, not interior light wiring which is only 0.5 mm CSA or thereabouts.
Superspark is quite right, 30 amp fuse could have caused a major thermal event, or fire if you like. The circuit is not designed for such a large short circuit current overload and the cable could have easily melted or caught fire.
You know all about fuses? Methinks not.

And your insurance would not have paid up.
Lucky boy.
And silly too. Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.

But I have found the problem, it would of done the same on a 20amp fuse! And the insurance company would not of know!

If you have a better solution for finding a intermittent fault do say!?

Hello landy19840,
Yes, as you say, intermittent faults can be hard to find.
However, once it occurs and the fuse has ruptured, it's normally caused by power leaking to ground thus creating a large current overload. I used to deliberately short circuit cables as part of my job and even with small size cables this could be over a hundred amps!!
In your case, the fault finding process stars with measuring the resistance to ground of all the power cables which are fed by that fuse. It helps to remove connectors/bulbs etc within that circuit so you arn't measuring for example filament resistance to ground.
A power lead should of course be open circuit and once low resistance is detected, this may be the culprit.

I know it sounds rather daunting, but before you even start you need a diagram of the circuit serviced the the fuse and a volt/ohm meter.
I know you found the fault, but to be honest it was very risky method!

With vehicle fires, the VM will carry out a full investigation and you'd be amazed even from a molten mess what can be found.

Sorry to go on, but i've seen a fair share of vehicles written off caused by fires, i just don't want it to happen to yours, or anyone elses car. Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.

Glad you found the fault in the end but a simpler and safer solution to fitting a larger rated fuse would have been to have made up a 12volt bulb, side light type or similar connected in series with a suitable (5amp fuse) and then connect this across the point where the normal blade fuse sits. Fault on (wiring earthing) bulb lights fully - fault off bulb remains dim (other devices drawing current) or completely out.

A lot easier to watch a bulb whilst moving wiring around than an ammeter or similar. Even get the wife to help as teaching them bulb on - bulb off is not too difficult![/b][/b]

Thanks, but all your info is about 3 weeks late!