Today, because of this topic [Hdc button bulb], in a little spare time, I've decided to take a look...

Indeed, from factory, there is no LED installed there, on the HDC button.
But all is in place, just for you to put the LEDs and way you go...
See the pictures below.

Component side of Ride and Handling Optimization Switch.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Awesome!

Always bugged me not having an illuminated switch!

What LED's did you use? Freelander 2 TD4 Auto, SE, Narvik Black, Alpaca full leather, Rear Headrest Entertainment System, 6 CD, 18 HSE Wheels, Privicy tints

Good post

Bare in mind that Alex buttons are opposite to ours

Mine is DSC LEFT, HDC RIGHT

Wonder how much that saves per car during production then, not fitting a LED bulb?

Captain Worm wrote:

What LED's did you use?

....and it was all going swimmingly well for my limited electronics abilities until then.....  John
07 HSE Narvick Black
Land Rover Series One
Triumph Rocket 111 (sadly gone!)

looks good can you do a step by step instructions for us ??? Pleaseeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car

Once again Alex delivers!

Thanks for this

I shall be doing it at the weekend!!!  Discovery 4 HSE - Aintree Green
Freelander 2 TD4 SE Automatic - Tonga Green
Defender XS - Tonga Green - Gone Now
Freelander 1 Td4 ES Manual - Epsom Green - Gone Now *
Freelander 1 Td4 Kalahari SE - Epsom Green - Gone Now
Freelander 1 XEi - Epsom Green - Gone Now

www.greenlandrover.uk

Any chance of a post & return service Alex?  Freelander 2 TD4 Auto, SE, Narvik Black, Alpaca full leather, Rear Headrest Entertainment System, 6 CD, 18 HSE Wheels, Privicy tints

chrisdeeming wrote:

looks good can you do a step by step instructions for us ??? Pleaseeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Here it is:
You must detach the black back cover of the module. After that, you'll see the circuit board from the component side.
Carefully, you need to lift the circuit board from the front part of the module.
In the below pictures you'll see the followings:
1 = HDC leds. Two of them, connected in series. Now blank. Here you'll need to solder the new leds.
2 = DSC leds. Two of them, connected in series. Green color.
3 = TR leds. Two different leds for each position. One green, for night illumination and one orange for corresponding TR mode.
R = The resistor for DSC andd HDC leds. Now 2K4 value. It must be lowered to about 1K5 for proper luminosity.
Conn = Module's connector. Pin 3 is GND and pin 5 is +12V for illumination. Use them for testing purposes.
Solder new leds for HDC.
Replace the current limiting resistor (R) with the needed value for proper illumination.
Test and if all OK, close the job.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

The corresponding schematic is something like this:


Take care what red leds you use. The direct voltage of red leds is usually lower than green leds. This means that, when connected in parallel, the red and the green ones, it's possible that the red leds will brightly lit and the green one will barely lit. Choose red and green leds with as close as possible direct voltages.

Have fun!

Captain Worm wrote:

Any chance of a post & return service Alex?

Nope...
Where will be the fun for you in that?...

Without wanting to be pedantic, but you know that proverb...
Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime.

I can see LR having a rush on new Ride and Handling Optimization Switches anytime soon, The parts managers are going to be scratching heads wondering if there is a reliability problem developing At work
At home

"I can't always believe facts I read on the web" - Charles Dickens

winner by default of the tractor vs caravan race

Good work Alex  Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.