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snappa



Member Since: 16 Apr 2008
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Scotland 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Buckingham Blue
Help VW Polo

Ok I know it's not LR related but I have twice asked questions on VW forums and waited months with no answer.....

My missus Polo has developed a leak in the washer hose/fittings behind the bonnet scuttle cover thing under the wiper arms.
First I can't get the wiper arms off, I have removed the nuts, are they just tight as Censored or do they need a special tool to remove?

Also anyone know how you get the black plastic cover that is under the wiper arms off? The bit that goes right across the body and has a grill cut out of it.

Any help much appreciated! Thumbs Up

Post #62325 4th Mar 2010 7:34 pm
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mcphersonstrut



Member Since: 21 Jul 2009
Location: In the land of 2 wheel drive and 60mpg
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England 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

I'm convinced that if you have undone the retaining nut then they should come off, obviously they are on a spline which is either straight or tapered. Try a good wriggle side to side (the arm not you Laughing ) using the upright arm in car wash mode as a lever - but be gentle.

Post #62333 4th Mar 2010 8:02 pm
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lypsyl



Member Since: 02 Mar 2010
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2009 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Alaska White

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Last edited by lypsyl on 19th May 2010 6:43 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Post #62334 4th Mar 2010 8:04 pm
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chicken george



Member Since: 05 Dec 2007
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United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Santorini Black

the arms are probably alloy and have welded themselves onto the steel axle, get a punch and tap them further on a little, that should loosen them. At work
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"I can't always believe facts I read on the web" - Charles Dickens

winner by default of the tractor vs caravan race

Post #62356 4th Mar 2010 9:06 pm
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alex_pescaru



Member Since: 12 Mar 2009
Location: RO
Posts: 4642

If your missus Polo is an 9N3 type, then here it is:
https://www.freel2.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11383/polo.pdf
If not, maybe it will help.

On first page, you will find the procedure for removing wiper arms.
On second page you will find how to remove plenum chamber cover.
On third page how to install it back.

PS: My missus also drives a Polo. Laughing Laughing Laughing

Post #62364 4th Mar 2010 9:21 pm
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snappa



Member Since: 16 Apr 2008
Location: Watching C-beams near the Tanhauser Gate
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Scotland 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Buckingham Blue

Thanks to all for comments esp Alex with that very helpful diagram.

Now I feel fully equipped to go and break something this weekend then claim it was broken already Whistle

Post #62391 5th Mar 2010 9:04 am
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mcphersonstrut



Member Since: 21 Jul 2009
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England 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

chicken george wrote:
the arms are probably alloy and have welded themselves onto the steel axle, get a punch and tap them further on a little, that should loosen them.

Impressive CG, I presume this is through experience of your alloys 'tig welding' themselves to the steel hub plate and you needing a rather large hammer and a lump of wood Laughing

Post #62396 5th Mar 2010 9:18 am
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alex_pescaru



Member Since: 12 Mar 2009
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You'll be surprised, but many tire shops are using this method to loosen the stuck-on-hub alloys... Thumbs Up
Or they are using a soft plastic hammer to tap on the circumference of the alloy...

Post #62404 5th Mar 2010 10:19 am
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chicken george



Member Since: 05 Dec 2007
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United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Santorini Black

Also defenders - anywhere where alloy body skin meets steel, chicken shed roof linings are aluminium --- use steel screws carefully otherwise the alloy rots around the steel.

copper grease stops wheels sticking, my fl2 came ready dosed with copper grease... a welcome surprise Thumbs Up At work
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"I can't always believe facts I read on the web" - Charles Dickens

winner by default of the tractor vs caravan race

Post #62405 5th Mar 2010 10:26 am
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snappa



Member Since: 16 Apr 2008
Location: Watching C-beams near the Tanhauser Gate
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Scotland 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Buckingham Blue

Well after taking bits and pieces apart I have now discovered the rear washer is not working (other half said she knew but didn't think it was important Censored ).

I got her to press the rear washer today and from the side all I saw was loads of water peeing out from under where I imagine the washer tank to be. It drained the washer tank in about 15 mins.

Apart from a blocked hose/nozzle which I havent checked yet, any ideas?

Post #63029 9th Mar 2010 8:13 pm
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alex_pescaru



Member Since: 12 Mar 2009
Location: RO
Posts: 4642

The tank/pump is in front of the front left wheel.
To reach it:
Short way, inconvenient position: suspend the car, take out front left wheel, remove left wheel housing liner and you will see the bottom of the tank and the pump.
Long way, easy access: remove front bumper cover.
The same pump is for both windshield washer and for rear washer. When the pump's motor is spinning in one direction the water is sent to windshield and when it spins in the opposite direction the water is sent to rear washer.


Last edited by alex_pescaru on 9th Mar 2010 9:14 pm. Edited 2 times in total

Post #63037 9th Mar 2010 9:06 pm
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Dave



Member Since: 04 Jul 2007
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Scotland 2012 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Indus Silver

Split pipe or pipe disconnected from pump Question ______________________
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2012 FL2 SD4 Auto HSE
2013 Kawasaki Versys 650

Post #63038 9th Mar 2010 9:07 pm
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mcphersonstrut



Member Since: 21 Jul 2009
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England 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

Agreed - or split tank ? Do you put additive in snappa ?

Post #63039 9th Mar 2010 9:12 pm
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snappa



Member Since: 16 Apr 2008
Location: Watching C-beams near the Tanhauser Gate
Posts: 1633

Scotland 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Buckingham Blue

Yeah I put in screen wash.

The telling thing was asking SWMBO did you go over anything recently like something in the road/big pothole/hear anything hit the underside of car?

The answer? How would I know? Banging Head

Post #63045 9th Mar 2010 11:03 pm
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