Less than 5k in 3 years!! I do that in 3 months! !! shal we do a 6 monthly swap?

I'll put some miles on there for you Might get it run in at some point... MY2011 Freelander 2 GS Santorini Black
MY2004 Freelander 1 Sport Java Black
MY1986 Defender 90 Stornoway Grey - Fully Rebuilt this Year

It was sitting around for a year, bought it new Nov 2014. Are planning to get onto the beaten track but other things have been getting in the way. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

My 09 SE is on the original battery and it is still performing well.
On odd occasions I do get the "battery low" signal showing up on the
radio screen but it has always been because I am running two MSA licenced
two way safety radios on a forest rally check point and starting the engine
and running it for 5 minutes always sorts it out, besides warming me up in
winter months and cooling me in the summer.

Bill  Life Honorary Member of Wallasey Motor Club.
Licenced MSA Radio Operator for 35+ years.
Rallying is the only sport.

Carrying on this thread...

I got this message yesterday while I had the radio as I was changing the door lock (AGAIN). Radio turned off, I ignored it. 20mins later I had finished and I went to start the car and clickity click, no start.
I was a bit surprised as had no issue with the battery at all, however have done a lot of short trips recently, with heated seats and both screens/mirrors so though must just be flat. Have had it on charge for 16 hours, just gone to start it and completely dead. In my experience battery's don't go from perfectly fine, to totally dead overnight.

Anyone got any ideas why it has not charged? It is the orig battery, the car is a 2012 with 130K.

If you are not going to replace the battery, consider a pair of jumper leads with 200 amp copper bronze clamps.

Click image to enlarge

AjM wrote:

. In my experience battery's don't go from perfectly fine, to totally dead overnight.

I have put a new battery in and all is well. But just to be sure, how do I do the residual current check?

You will need a multimeter. Remove the positive battery terminal and connect it to the red probe/terminal of the multimeter, connect the black multimeter terminal to the battery positive. See how much current is flowing after the initial surge as capacitors charge up. You might expect a small flow of (I am guessing) a few tens of milliamps to run the alarm system and clock etc but if more than say 1 amp then the battery will slowly discharge. Remember that a 75 ampere hour battery will discharge in 75 hours if delivering one amp and so forth. Does anyone out there know the quiescent current on an FL2? 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Quote:

Does anyone out there know the quiescent current on an FL2?

Ok, not sure what I am doing wrong here but I need help.

I am using the negative as that is supposed to be safer (if it earths it won't do anything).
With my multimeter in the right 10a setting I am making the circuit but it is sparking when I connect. I did manage to get a reading of 3.62amps which is crazy??

All the doors are shut the and the neg on the battery has been disconnected for about an hour so nothing in the car should be on.

Help?

Now it is still sparking but showing 0.00, if I leave the probes on it sparks ever few seconds with no discernible pattern.

Measured through the positive or earth terminal shouldn't make any difference - basic physics. However, this is one of those situations where I prefer an old analogue meter so that you can see what's going on. Digital meters only sample every second or so and if you have something pulsing you will get strange readings. If you are indeed getting short bursts of current every few seconds you will have to start taking fuses out to isolate it. Apart from the alarm system scanning something or a pump coming on and off I can't think what it would be. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Seems it was my bad the connection was not good enough. Got it on now and all the lights etc have gone off but still drawing 1.19amps. Do I have to wait for the 35mins to pass for it to drop to less then 0.05?

Last edited by AjM on 8th Feb 2016 6:55 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Why not just leave it for an hour or two and see what happens. I suppose you have checked things like glove box lights , wound all windows up and down (windows stop when module detects increased current from stalled motor etc) Next step is removing fuses and try to isolate the cause. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

All sorted, it dropped to 0.08 then 0.06 and then after another couple of mins 0.02 and then 0.00.

So hopefully all sorted, thanks for your help.