Hi all,

I just purchased a 2010 LRT HSE 3.2L a few days ago, and have been having problems starting the vehicle in cold weather

Once I've insert the key, I' have to hold the break down and hold & release the start/stop button a dozen times before the car finally turns over and starts. The local mechanic says the car battery is fine and that my starter is brand new. The vehicle gave me HDC error once.

Is this something an extra ground wire might fix?
I've also noticed I'm in serious need of an oil change, could that be part of the issue?

Thanks!

Last edited by Marcus97 on 17th Dec 2024 12:59 am. Edited 1 time in total

Marcus,

For my LR2 I can jump in
- press the brake with my foot
- the key fob with my thumb
- the START/STOP with my index finger
all in less than 1 second and my LR2 will not start.

I suspect that you may be doing something like that.

Try walking thru the power modes and let us know if you still have the problem



MODE 0 --> insert the FOB but don't touch the brake

MODE I --> press the START/STOP briefly but don't touch the brake

MODE II --> press the START/STOP for 2 seconds but don't touch the brake

MODE III --> press and hold the brake and then the START/STOP (engine should start)


By Mode II the steering column should be unlocked, if not then the engine won't start and in MODE II you can switch into Neutral and start with the transmission in neutral instead of park (if the Park signal isn't working the engine won't start and if the signal from the brake switch is faulty then the transmission won't switch to neutral)



The Electronics in the Freelander II (LR2) are based on the Volvo XC70, XC60, XC90, S80

Volvo does a better job of explaining the power modes than Land Rover




Let us know if that helps

Thanks

Paul

Thanks for your reply, p_gill

I tried to walk through these power modes as you suggest, but my LR2 doesn't seem to respond as expected. I should mention, this is an Automatic 3.2L HSE.

Steps:

1)Inserting the key fob turns on the small green audio system screen, and nothing else.

2) Pressing the start/stop button briefly (without braking) does nothing.

3) Holding down start/stop button for 2s (without breaking) turns the ignition on. The vehicle performs a system check and whines for a second or two.

4) Braking while holding down the start/stop button for 2s starts the engine.

If the vehicle is warm, it has no trouble performing 1) followed by 4)

If the car is cold, starting the ignition (3) first doesn't seem to increase the likelihood of the engine starting. The colder it is, the more I have to press the start/stop button. Eventually it does turn over and start.

Cancel that!

Could it possibly faulty stop/start switch? as these do fail on the diesel models. 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Mahatma Gandhi said if there is an Idiot in power those who elected him are well represented

Get a multi tester and check that the starter button is working correctly or get a replacement starter button and see if the car starts correctly.

Marcus97 wrote:

Thanks for your reply, p_gill

I tried to walk through these power modes as you suggest, but my LR2 doesn't seem to respond as expected. I should mention, this is an Automatic 3.2L HSE.

Steps:

1)Inserting the key fob turns on the small green audio system screen, and nothing else.

2) Pressing the start/stop button briefly (without braking) does nothing.

3) Holding down start/stop button for 2s (without breaking) turns the ignition on. The vehicle performs a system check and whines for a second or two.

4) Braking while holding down the start/stop button for 2s starts the engine.

If the vehicle is warm, it has no trouble performing 1) followed by 4)

If the car is cold, starting the ignition (3) first doesn't seem to increase the likelihood of the engine starting. The colder it is, the more I have to press the start/stop button. Eventually it does turn over and start.

Rommel wrote:

Could it possibly faulty stop/start switch? as these do fail on the diesel models.

IanMetro wrote:

Marcus97 wrote:

Thanks for your reply, p_gill

I tried to walk through these power modes as you suggest, but my LR2 doesn't seem to respond as expected. I should mention, this is an Automatic 3.2L HSE.

Steps:

1)Inserting the key fob turns on the small green audio system screen, and nothing else.

2) Pressing the start/stop button briefly (without braking) does nothing.

3) Holding down start/stop button for 2s (without breaking) turns the ignition on. The vehicle performs a system check and whines for a second or two.

4) Braking while holding down the start/stop button for 2s starts the engine.

If the vehicle is warm, it has no trouble performing 1) followed by 4)

If the car is cold, starting the ignition (3) first doesn't seem to increase the likelihood of the engine starting. The colder it is, the more I have to press the start/stop button. Eventually it does turn over and start.

I know that you have said that the Battery is good, but to me these symptoms are that of an aged battery.

Does a Battery Booster help the starting, if it does, renew the Battery.

A poor power supply whilst in the electronics start mode will cause all kinds of random problems.

If your battery is more than a couple of years old then changing it is a good first step, before you start pulling anything apart.

The last few days have been above 0c and the car stated without hesitation. Today it's -4c and the car wouldn't start, and the battery icon was showing on the dash after a few failed attempts. The car started after boosting. Guess it's just an old battery!

If its five years old then it is old ! 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Mahatma Gandhi said if there is an Idiot in power those who elected him are well represented

5 year’s seems to be the magic number, washing machine not working, well it’s 5 years old. Tv not working, well it’s 5 years old better to get a new one. Is it just that nobody expects anything to last longer than 5 minutes nowadays

Quote:

For reference here is the Voltage Dip at the battery when cranking
(note: my volt meter has a MIN function and that is what I used)

LR2________11.07 Volts (New battery)
A4 2.0T_____10.64 Volts MFG --> April 2019
328i________10.20 Volts Original battery from 2015
Jetta 1.8T____10.53 Volts Original battery from 2015
S80_________To be determined or possibly replace depending on the guidance I receive here

All measurements were above 77F (or 25C if that makes more sense)

Right now, the new battery doesn't seem to have fixed anything. The resting voltage on the old battery at - 10c was around 12.06v, and 12.6 on the new battery at the same (roughly) temperature. However the car failed to turn over with the new battery. So I'm thinking the the terminal connectors and/or the ground wire are possibly problematic..

Anyway, I drove around with the new battery today for an hour. Hopefully that charged it up enough to make it very obvious what the root problem is.
I'll try measuring the resting voltage and cranking voltage tomorrow, and fix the terminal connectors and ground wire

While you are at it check the terminals that the starter solenoid acts on. They need to carry a high current to turn over the engine (sending huge amps to the starter motor) and can erode due to sparking if the contact isn’t made properly. They are a known problem on the 2.2 diesel and no real reason why the same problem can’t happen on the petrol.