Disclamer - This thread shall function as an inspiration/guide/warning to other forum members. This thread does only show how I decided to perform this operation and I take no responsibility for others that will try to use this information on their own projects in any ways!

Hi all,

Several km`s has gone since I replaced my worn rear diff with a used Evoque diff, ref thread https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic28803.html

In my experience, happiness does not last forever and the Evoque diff seems to develop a slight humming/rumbling sound similar to what I had with the old diff. Thinking of a DIY repair of the old diff has been in my mind for a long time as it is basically a new bearing that is needed to put it back to service. I have access to most standard mechanical tools and workshop equipment through my work and I have several years of experience within industrial mechanical design and work. Performing the job according to LR`s own procedure for the “low level” repair seems do-able but the showstopper is the need for the special tools needed for retaining the input shaft while undoing and tightening the bearing retainer nut. Making a tool for the retainer nut is not hard, but sourcing a splined socket for the input shaft is worse. I have seen a website where a Russian mechanic has made this one from a clutch plate from a 2.5 V6 mondeo. Its an option if you have one accessible. I have a Haldex Gen.4 unit laying around which came with the Evoque diff. I decided to strip this one to use the spline connection for making the tool. So here we go:

The retainer tool for the lock nut was made by cutting of the drive end from a 42mm 12 point socket. The socket was welded into a piece of tube. A set of ears was welded onto the other end of the tube and drilled to fit two of the M8 bores in the diff casing. Some pics:



The splined socket for the input shaft was made by cutting out the internal spline from the old Haldex unit, then prepared in a lathe before for welding together with a socket with ½” drive:

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MRRover75,

That is an awesome DIY

Thanks for sharing

Paul

PS if "Project Binky" has an opening I think your ready

Hi all, thanks for the feedback.

Not to much done yesterday, but I had some time to do some inspection. Here is a picture of the input shaft with its bearings. You can also see the crush-spacer between the bearings. As you can see, there is no direct mechanical locking features on the retainer nut. I assume the main idea with the crush-spacer is that the "crush load"/compression placed between the bearings inner races under tightening will be sufficient to make the nut not came loose under operation. The new nut has also thread locker pre-applied:

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Excellent how to,it's way beyond my capabilities but it will help lots of people.

Hi,

Hope so . I guess this will be beyond the capabilities of many DIY-ers, but this will hopefully shed some light over many of the questions raised regarding the diff issue.
As our cars are getting older, I guess we will mainly see more DIY operations done on our cars and this is a great forum to share the experience.
When I am done with the work, I will gladly borrow out my special tools to other DIY-ers agianst a depositum and shipping costs. But first, need to see how this ends up

Interesting write up and full marks.

Using a torque wrench set (and calibrated) correctly the collapsible spacer should set the end float on the pinion components on refit. Depending on miles done while damaged one could expect some premature wear on the crown wheel / pinion faces so a increase in diff whine may result when compared to new unit.

Shimming / adjusting the crown wheel and pinion running face tolerance is a challenge and would be rarely done these days with exchange unit being the norm.

I seem to recall using (and I can only call it) engineering carbon paper between the teeth mating surfaces to ensure they fully met after setting the end float clearance. (anyone know what that ink paper was called). FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Very impressive and well done. I overhauled a Ford Escort gearbox back in the early 70's and all of the information to do it was in the Haynes (and other) manual at the time. Sadly, most people rarely attempt this sort of job nowadays and the manuals just say that it's beyond the scope of the DIY-er which puts people off even trying. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Haynes manuals ain't what they used to be.

Just bought a latest Haynes for the FL2 (inc 64 plate) - hard back cover is gone.

Also the detailed exploded diagrams at the beginning of each chapter which was often where you would start reading. Just a short description and a lot of B&W pics instead , some quite poor contrasted and fuzzy and some clearly generic.

Considering it supposedly covered upto 64 plate it doesnt mention the SD4 or electric parking brake.

Frankly I was disappointed. There are CDROMs on ebay - they also dont tend to cover the latest models but the diagrams are much better and have coloured highlights. Jules

MrRover 75,

You wrote: "In my experience, happiness does not last forever and the Evoque diff seems to develop a slight humming/rumbling sound similar to what I had with the old diff"

I am hesitant to write this because I don't want to distract you in any way from the rebuild but I did want to share my experience.

I also had some humming/rumbling at about 50,000 miles.

Now I am at 110,000 miles and my differential is quiet. (a different thread documents this and you are on that thread as well)

To significantly reduce (nearly eliminate) the humming I switched to a different gear oil.

Here is a white paper that discusses different gear lubes

http://www.goodsenseoil.com/G2457-GearOilWhitePaper.pdf

Based on that white paper I concluded that the anti wear properties of the gear oils can vary greatly.

I didn't buy any of the Gear Oil's in the white paper, instead I bought a gear oil for Heavy Duty trucks.

Mobil Delvac 1™ Gear Oil

Quote from Mobil "This product is designed for use in heavy-duty drivetrains that require gear lubricants with excellent load-carrying capability and where extreme pressures and shock loading are expected."

I am not suggesting that this product is in some way superior and this it is the only solution. It is just that it was engineered for a different application.

And in my case this oil and and a magnet to collect the metal particles have made all the difference.

Note: it may be hard to find Mobil 1 Delvac where you live if you are looking for something equivlent then another gear oil that meets one or both the following specifications should be fine.

SCANIA STO 2:0 A
SCANIA STO 2:0 A FS

In my case this change has allowed me to go another 60,000 miles without repairing the pinion bearing and I am nearly certain that my bearing is worn.

When I rebuild mine I'll take pictures and post it here (but first you need to finish teaching me how to rebuild it)

I greatly appreciate your effort to document this DIY

Happy Motoring

Paul

MRRover75,

great write up and pictures, thanks

would certainly suggest that regular diff oil changes could be beneficial ?

Iain

well done! Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

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Hi all,

Thanks for the feedback. No need to say that frequent oil changes probably will help improving the life of the diff. I guess much can be discussed there regarding frequency and oil quality/type.

Not much done yesterday. I am still waiting for the new bearings.
I did remove the inner race on the input shaft. This was done in a known way, same as often done when removing an inner race of a wheel bearing from its spindle. The inner race was cut with a grinder as much as possible, then the ring was split with a cold chisel in the grinded groove. The race could then be easily pulled of the shaft. Its important to not grind through the inner race when doing this operation:

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Can you throw up a couple of Macro shots of the pinion teeth, would be interested to see what they look like. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Seen a few of the nose bearings now and they all look identical. Shame it's never been nailed down as to a cause. Not to mix up threads but this is what worries me about the Haldex "dink" noise I and many others get when setting off. Land Rover blame the bearing failure on the way the Haldex applies torque from standstill and it certainly sounds and feels like there's some jolting going on. Love to know if the two things are related. Bell on the other hand say the bearing is too small, and no-one seems to really blame the oil.

Very interested in what you have to say about the different oil Paul Gill. Would you say this is the UK equivalent?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00307...QVK90UAMQF
I wonder if putting some 80w90 back in would make your noise return?

Spec says "where extreme pressures and shock loading are expected" - seems to fit with what Land Rover say!

Yorky Bob wrote:

Can you throw up a couple of Macro shots of the pinion teeth, would be interested to see what they look like.

Hi Bob,

Here you go:

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