My how to haldex service guide as promised.
This is for the later Generation 4 haldex fitted to the later Freelander 2's. I'm sure the gen 3 is fairly similar, it has pump and filter in different positions so you may not need to actually remove the complete unit. Land-rover didn't see fit to add a drain plug for the oil unfortunately.

A disclaimer, please only do this if you have access to a method of safely lifting and supporting the car while underneath it. Also I'm not a mechanic, just a keen diy'er. Don't take my processes as the way it should be done, it's just the way that works for me. 🙂


Time for another haldex service after the warning appears on the dash. Not gearbox related at all thankfully, despite what the warning suggests. I had thought I hadn't changed the filter for 40000 miles so was surprised to check my own service records to find it was only done 24000 miles ago. I'll plan to do it at 20k now I think.





The kit I used, a reasonable £52 off ebay.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175091499843?mk...media=COPY




Up on ramps. I also jacked up a front wheel and put the auto transmission into neutral so the prop shaft would turn.




This what the gen 4 haldex looks like with the large flange that prevents the pump being removed in situ.

There are two electrical connector plugs on the controller box. You need to remove the larger plug. You can take the smaller plug off later to remove the pump.


Six of these male torx bolts to remove. E10 is the socket size. You can get to two of them, remove those then rotate the prop until you can get at the next two.
There are 3 crescent shaped locking tabs, one under each set of 2 bolts. You can just see one of them under the bolt heads.






I remove the propshaft centre bearing bolts to
allow the prop a bit of free play. 10mm bolt heads.



Now to separate the propshaft from the drive flange. It's splined and a tight fit. I use one of the un threaded holes in the rear facing side of the flange, put a 25 mm m6 bolt into the hole then use a further 2 m6 bolts and two of the locking tabs, threaded into the rear side of two adjacent threaded holes so that when tightened they push the bolt between them into the unthreaded hole which forces the propshaft forwards off the splines. (Hope I've described that well enough)







Once separated the prop can be moved out and downwards out of the way.




Now you need to remove the four m6 (10mm head) bolts which secure the haldex to the differential. Two of them are easy to access at the bottom.








Two are at the top and more challenging to get at, (and impossible to photograph with a camera phone). A selection of socket extension bars are useful here. One of them pictured with socket and ratchet attached.




I sucked out as much of the old oil as possible with a very useful syringe pump




The old oil was very dirty and had gritty residue when I emptied it out.








Having done that the complete haldex unit lifts out. It might take a bit of wiggling or a few careful taps to remove it.
Out and on the bench. You can see clearly how the flange prevents the pump from coming out.






24mm socket on the impact driver removes the big flange nut. A few taps and it comes off. I've used a bearing pulley previously but it's not that tight. Once removed you have easy access to the pump and filter.





Old filter out and replaced. New bolts and aluminium cap are provided.





Filter replaced and pump out. I was expecting the pump screen to be clogged but it was hardly even dirty to my surprise. Photo here is after I cleaned it. I also attached two wires to the connector and verified it was working by attaching them to a spare 12v battery for a second.




Two new o rings are supplied for the pump. They are different sizes, smaller one at the front. Smear of oil on the orings as they're fitted and the pump replaced. You re use the pump bolts. Just nip them up which pulls the pump home into place.

I put the flange back on and tightened the 24mm nut. I then copper greased the mating face and the 6 bolt holes.




And that's a far as I went. I know you can dismantle the clutch pack to clean the individual plates but I haven't done this before and am wary of either damaging them or not reinstalling them correctly.

So now as all the Haynes manuals used to helpfully tell us, 'refitting is the reverse of removal.

There is a large o ring at the mating face of the haldex where it goes into the diff. I replaced this the 1st time I did this job but haven't done so since. Its always in perfect condition and reusable in my opinion. The joint has never leaked.

The 6 torx bolts are supposed to be replaced as they are stretch bolts. I never have and this is the 3 time Ive had this haldex out. They don't need a massive torque being only m6 threads so they are basically nipped up using my 1/4" drive ratchet. I've never actually used a torque wrench on them, happy enough to do it by feel.
After its all back together I replaced the haldex oil with new. Took about 650-700ml. I then started the car and toggled through the 4 terrain response settings to activate the pump. After that I topped up the haldex oil again until its just trickling from the fill hole. I don't remove the 70ml that is suggested. I don't see the point nor am I worried that an additional 70ml will cause any issues. Whilst under the rear I noted a slight weep of oil on one side of the diff output shafts. More just a residue of oil that a leak. I checked and topped up the diff oil while I was there. It didn't need much.

And that's it done. Four-wheel-driveyness is back in action and warning light gone.

Hope this is of use to someone else tackling the same job.👍 Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Last edited by Bobupndown on 2nd Dec 2023 6:45 pm. Edited 5 times in total

Brilliant write up there Bob. You make it look very easy. Almost gives me the confidence to have a go myself but lots of other things need my attention first.

Thanks. It's not that difficult and if you had a 2 post ramp it would be so much easier than rolling about on the floor. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Great write up and pics Bob.
That will be my chore to do when I get the filter etc together.
One of the local auto parts places is now stocking the Febi brand of parts so I have already got the oil
(at a very good price lol).
Kind regards
littlecub

Febi seem to do decent quality stuff. I've used their suspension bushes, oil filters, track rod ends all with no issues. Used their haldex oil several times now. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Hi Bob.
Nice write up and really good clear photos which make the thread even better, has you know i have posted ao another thread regarding the Haldex which you also posted on.

The filter supplied by Matt at auto fault finder is genuine, not Chinese copy that some on ebay are selling, did you note it has a valve built into the filter, copies do not.
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2

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The above arrived today along with my ECU & N373 valve which was tested by Matt, the valve was fine, he did the scrabbling fix on the ECU.

They were fitted and no more grabbing or scrabbling, he suggested i drive the car for a few days get a few good miles on it then ring him and if i am satisfied to give him a ring and he will take a payment.

All being well my trip to Bell Engineering will not be needed.

You could of taken the Valve and ECU off the Haldex and clean the port holes out too, i have bagged myself a spare Diff & Haldex which i intend to take apart and clean, i will post up how the clutch plates come out, i have already done three gen 3 ones.

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Rear diff and Haldex combined.
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Practiced the drilling of the drain hole for the diff on it.
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Thanks again for sharing your knowledge

brilliant pictorial  2009 FL2 S now gone
2011 FL2 HSE AUTO
2012 FL2 XS AUTO
2000 Kawasaki er 5

Quote:

You could of taken the Valve and ECU off the Haldex and clean the port holes out too

Great guide, Bobupndown, thank you.

What technique did you use to tighten the 24mm flange nut to the recommended torque?

Thanks for this write up Bob, very clear and detailed

[quote="Bobupndown"]

Quote:

What does the "Scrabbling fix" entail?

Hi Gavin.
I removed the Haldex gen 4 from the spare rear diff i had with the full intention of taking it all apart including the clutch plates, which in the end like you i did not do, the main reason was that luck as it the Haldex looked like it had not been long since the filter was changed, the oil being really clean.

I made a bridge for the Diff/haldex to rest on.
1

loosened all the filler bolts, and the bolts holding the Haldex to the diff.
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you can see the filter cap is new and a proper one with the number marking in it (6).
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Remove the bracket from the diff.
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Had my catch bowl ready under the bridge for any oil that came out.
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With all four bolts removed i teased the Haldex from the Diff.
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Oil slowly came out as the Haldex was parted from the Diff.
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oil does not look that bad.
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Haldex now free from the Differential.
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Inside the Diff looks clean also.
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I thought this looks promising the spare diff& haldex i bagged is looking good, moved the haldex into the shed.
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The Haldex is now ready to be cleaned out properly.
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I will show this below in another post, click the link for more of the cleaning save taking up all of bobs thread.
https://www.freel2.com/forum/post437705.html#437705

Add it here Arctic, its all relevant 👍 Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

https://www.freel2.com/forum/post437705.html#437705

This is the follow on from the above, once i had removed the filter, and the pump from the Haldex gen 4 i wanted to clean it the very best i could without removing the clutch plates.

So to do this i decided that i would spray brake cleaner through every hole in the side of the cage which holds the clutch plates.

There are three holes to each section, there are seven sections, marked is section one.
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This was repeated through all 3 holes & the 7 sections.
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Next i cut some 3mm clear tube inserted this into the galleries of the Haldex.
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The clear tube was connected to the brake fluid cleaner spray can, and pressed for at least 25 seconds, until the claner fluid came out of the opposite gallery.
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Also out of the pump chamber & filter chamber, basically a reverse flush.
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Then is was flushed through the other gallery.
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I was then satisfied that was the best i was going to do without removing the clutch plates.
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I left that over night to see if any more old oil drained out, next day Sunday 10th then removed the ECU.
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Removed the ECU.
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This leaves the N373 valve in the Haldex, this needs to be removed.
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The ECU lid comes away with the seal attached.
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Remove the seal and check inside all is ok no bent pins ect,
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A good grip of the N373 valve with some rubber gloves should see it pull out free.
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You can see there is still oil inside the valve gallery, i was happy to see it was nice and clear.
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The gallery was also clean no black residue.
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I then sprayed the gallery out with the brake cleaner.
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I think that is the best i am going to get it without the clutch plates being done individually if removed and replaced.
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Next i cleaned the diff oils ways etc.

Great thread Bob & Arctic

I’ve tackled the Haldex 3 a few times but have a later model Freeby now.
This thread will be of great use next year,when I plan to have a go on the gen.4 Haldex. Back in the fold after 8 yrs. V8 Disco 300 series-Gone.07 Freelander 2 HSE Auto Rimini Red.
Gone.
2013 HSE Lux Havana ( Brown! )