Hi, my 2011 Freelander 2.2 TD4 manual has a few issues I hope are easy to diagnose and cheap to repair (typing this with my dream catcher above my head!).

things I have observed

1)
Sometimes when driving in 5th around 50mph I get a drumming / thumping noise which seems to come from the rear, its almost like the buffeting sound you get if you drive with the rear windows down but the front up. If I let of the steam a little it goes and I can then increase speed and the sound doesn't return. This can be hard to reproduce but does come more on certain roads with certain bends or inclines where it is more prone.

2)
On motorway say im in a temp 50mph zone, once that clears and I try increasing my speed to 70, the revs jump but I dont get more speed, I really have to coax it really steadily to 70, it can be really concerning if going up hill I find myself downshifting to 4th sometimes

3)
In lower gears I feel what sounds like wheel spin from the rear, this can happen in 2nd, 3rd and I think I have observed it in 4th, in 2nd its also accompanied by a slight jolt forward. It seems to do this more when the car has been on some long drives.


Those are the main concerns, some minor things that perhaps maybe relevant

4)
sometimes my eco mode does not work, if I toggle the dash button it says "eco stop start fault"

5)
I can sometimes hear a rattle from the engine bay when I have the fan and aircon on

I have done some forum searching and I have no idea where to start, my findings point to the vacuum pipes in the engine bay? Or the gear box oil needs flushing and dr tranny ? Something call the haldex or rear diff?

Any pointers or tricks I can try to narrow down my suspects would be great, I love the car and have spent a lot of money cosmetically getting her nice with the intention of keeping her a long time, but I cant ignore these mechanical issues which feel like that have come to light quite recently.

2) Definitely sounds like Clutch Slip. Possibly could account for 1) and 3) as well.

Worth noting that the Haldex provides power to rear wheels, so that if it fails the FL2 will spin it's FRONT wheels on starting away from stopped.

Notes on Haldex
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic33791.html?highlight=haldex FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

I've had the wheelspin and a jolt that i was convinced was the Haldex playing up. Engine would sometimes rev high between gear changes at high speed, like it missed the gear. Also general sluggishness.

Turns out my gearbox oil was low due to a leak on the level plug. All those issues disappeared once i did a partial drain and topped her up to proper level. Probably the easiest place to start before you start looking at the big ticket items.

To clarify
Dirtypaws' FL2 is a manual, and I meant the main clutch between the engine and gearbox.
To me his symptoms were of worn clutch plates.

The Haldex notes were for general information only.

I remembered a similar Thread on loss of power, I found it, but I can't see that the OP replied confirming the final resolution.
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic38735.ht...ing+clutch FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

2)
On motorway say im in a temp 50mph zone, once that clears and I try increasing my speed to 70, the revs jump but I dont get more speed, I really have to coax it really steadily to 70, it can be really concerning if going up hill I find myself downshifting to 4th sometimes

Classic symptoms of a worn clutch on a manual gearbox.

How many miles?
Has it had the gearbox off before ? Jules

IanMetro wrote:

To clarify
Dirtypaws' FL2 is a manual, and I meant the main clutch between the engine and gearbox.

Good call! Missed that. Been so long, getting hard to remember you guys have manuals over there

jules wrote:

2)
On motorway say im in a temp 50mph zone, once that clears and I try increasing my speed to 70, the revs jump but I dont get more speed, I really have to coax it really steadily to 70, it can be really concerning if going up hill I find myself downshifting to 4th sometimes

Classic symptoms of a worn clutch on a manual gearbox.

How many miles?
Has it had the gearbox off before ?

Thanks for the replies, I will keep you updated on progress.

dirtypaws wrote:

jules wrote:

2)
On motorway say im in a temp 50mph zone, once that clears and I try increasing my speed to 70, the revs jump but I dont get more speed, I really have to coax it really steadily to 70, it can be really concerning if going up hill I find myself downshifting to 4th sometimes

Classic symptoms of a worn clutch on a manual gearbox.

How many miles?
Has it had the gearbox off before ?

Just turned 90L Jules.

@jules do you know if the throttle body hose being really oily could be connected? I cleaned it all out and there was so much oil on the outside of that pipe and a fair amount inside the TB itself.
It feels strange how my eco stop start says it fails once problem 2 has occurred too.

I would clean the TB and change the turbo hoses and remove the intercooler and clean the inside of that to get rid of the oil deposits.

As Jules says sounds like knackerd clutch. put it in 4th gear handbrake on then try and move off if it stalls clutch probably good ? if revs go up and your and not going anywhere then clutch def had it. 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Thank you, I'll try the 4th gear trick tomorrow when I take her out.

Hi, she didn’t rev, she hunkered down and the revs dipped , I tried it a few times I didn’t keep going for her to stall but she was def going to.

Thank you for the replies and pointers.

dirtypaws wrote:

Hi, my 2011 Freelander 2.2 TD4 manual has a few issues I hope are easy to diagnose and cheap to repair (typing this with my dream catcher above my head!).

things I have observed

1)
Sometimes when driving in 5th around 50mph I get a drumming / thumping noise which seems to come from the rear, its almost like the buffeting sound you get if you drive with the rear windows down but the front up. If I let of the steam a little it goes and I can then increase speed and the sound doesn't return. This can be hard to reproduce but does come more on certain roads with certain bends or inclines where it is more prone.

2)
On motorway say im in a temp 50mph zone, once that clears and I try increasing my speed to 70, the revs jump but I dont get more speed, I really have to coax it really steadily to 70, it can be really concerning if going up hill I find myself downshifting to 4th sometimes

3)
In lower gears I feel what sounds like wheel spin from the rear, this can happen in 2nd, 3rd and I think I have observed it in 4th, in 2nd its also accompanied by a slight jolt forward. It seems to do this more when the car has been on some long drives.


Those are the main concerns, some minor things that perhaps maybe relevant

4)
sometimes my eco mode does not work, if I toggle the dash button it says "eco stop start fault"

5)
I can sometimes hear a rattle from the engine bay when I have the fan and aircon on

I have done some forum searching and I have no idea where to start, my findings point to the vacuum pipes in the engine bay? Or the gear box oil needs flushing and dr tranny ? Something call the haldex or rear diff?

Any pointers or tricks I can try to narrow down my suspects would be great, I love the car and have spent a lot of money cosmetically getting her nice with the intention of keeping her a long time, but I cant ignore these mechanical issues which feel like that have come to light quite recently.

1) I had that noise when the parking brake shoes were adjusted slightly to tight agains the drums. It sounded just like driving with the rear windows open!
4) Eco stop/start is very sensitive to battery charge and equipment in use. A battery that is only slightly below par will cause that to fail.