So I’ve just discovered, whilst reading another thread on here, that apparently the later model FL2 don’t have the combo of “front console socket on when ignition is on and read console socket permanent live” and instead both sockets are controlled by the car. To be fair I’ve noticed this in that if I open the door after it has sat unlocked for ages, without pressing anything, the power to either socket comes on.

So, knowing this, it should still be safe to run a dashcam piggyback off of one of these fuse locations?

I currently have my dashcam connected to one of them, but due to location and piggyback fuse design, I can’t use the second location for a second power supply.

Is anyone away of any other ignition controlled (or non permanent live) fuse locations I can use? Will be for running a stand-alone CarPlay unit.

I assume it’s not safe to plug a piggyback into a piggyback.

Cheers. FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - tailgate paint issues, fuel gauge rewire, transfer box failure at 36k miles, clutch at 60k
Reconditioned diff at 70k ish
Sold at 84k and now on a DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental
Now greatly regret selling the Outlander. MPG of the FL2 is atrocious and so are the fuel bills. Fun though 😎

Fuse F5 in the fuse box behind the glovebox is what you need. Piggyback off it.

(I wouldn't use a Piggyback into another one) Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Don't run a dashcam permanently off the starter battery. You are looking at about 0.3AH draw. Doesn't seem a lot but it does add up frightening quickly, especially Friday night to Monday morning & if your starter battery is a couple of years old. Not forgetting winter. The Freelander spits the dummy with a starter battery in less than perfect circumstances.

Just get a 26AH gel battery or two (4 x 26AH in our car, mostly for the fridge).

Run the dashcam from auxiliary battery/s. You don't necessarily need a DC-DC charger as the Freelander's voltage is good.

Under passenger seat:

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Whilst that’s an impressive setup, it’s possibly overkill for my needs. As far as I’m aware the dashcam is drawing nothing when the ignition is off and is how pretty much all of us do it. FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - tailgate paint issues, fuel gauge rewire, transfer box failure at 36k miles, clutch at 60k
Reconditioned diff at 70k ish
Sold at 84k and now on a DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental
Now greatly regret selling the Outlander. MPG of the FL2 is atrocious and so are the fuel bills. Fun though 😎

Have you looked at the Powerful dash cam wiring loom

Yeah I’ve looked at that in the past. It’s a nice bit of kit and would free up the fuse space in the glovebox. Wish I’d considered that before I got the other piggyback and 12v socket cable. Trying to spend as little on this project as possible 😂 but that’ll be the route I’ll go if I have issues with the second piggyback. FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - tailgate paint issues, fuel gauge rewire, transfer box failure at 36k miles, clutch at 60k
Reconditioned diff at 70k ish
Sold at 84k and now on a DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental
Now greatly regret selling the Outlander. MPG of the FL2 is atrocious and so are the fuel bills. Fun though 😎

Bobupndown wrote:

Fuse F5 in the fuse box behind the glovebox is what you need. Piggyback off it.

(I wouldn't use a Piggyback into another one)