So my much loved FL2 decided to splutter to a stop the other day and refused to restart. This was after and overnight stay somewhere where someone decided they would like to key the entire side of my car. Not a good day. Got towed the final couple of miles home by the AA. AA man kindly spent half an hour helping me try and diagnose the issue even though he had towed me home and hence done his job.

Anyway he scanned for fault codes and three codes popped up;

Camshaft position sensor, throttle valve open circuit and throttle valve stuck closed.

In addition we span the engine over to check fuel pressure which was good. In addition we checked the intake suction manually and there wasnt any so came to the conclusion that either the throttle valve was stuck shut or the timing belt had failed.

Today I stripped the thing down to find the timing belt intact but the plastic outer had broken up come off the tensioner pulley outer. The belt was however still tensioned. The belt appeared in good condition with no stripped teeth. Obviojusly it will all need replacing IF the engine is good so-

I decided to check the cam timing to see whether it had slipped and here is where I had problems.

I found the cam locking point easily but could not for the life of me find the one on the flywheel. There was a hole but it did not align correctly with the hole in the casting of the crankcase housing in so much as it was further inboard toward the crank centre. i.e. at an incorrect radius meaning that the locking pin would have to be inserted at an angle to get anywhere near the hole. In addition With this hole aligned roughly at the correct position the cam locking pin could not be inserted as the cam sprocket was nearer to 5-6 o clock position to the seven o clock it needed to be at.

I spun the engine over several times but could not for the life of me find any other holes.

I am still concerned the timing may have slipped and trashed the engine but cannot move forward until I can confirm. The only positive is that the engine turns over with no unusual noises and with good compression.

Any ideas please as I am at my wits end?

attached are pics of the offset hole in the flywheel compared to the crankcase hole and the position of the camshaft pulley with the crank lined up to the rogue flywheel hole and a general pic of the belt where you can see the tensioner minus the plastic outer

many thanks in advance

Gary

I believe the flywheel is locked with a special tool which engages with the starter teeth on the flywheel.
Bolted on via two of the starter bolts.

Apparently from what I have seen online that is to lock the flywheel to allow the bottom timing belt pulley bolt to be undone? You have to insert the pin into the hole first?

I guess you don't have the correct three part timing kit, if not both holes are 8mm diameter (an 8mm drill). but you need to be careful not to drop the driil into the flywheel casing. Also you need the flywheel locking tool. I suggest you get the kit,

I would reset the timing by taking the belt off and resetting both the cam sprocket with the pin and also the flywheel. The hole in the flywheel will line up with the hole in the casing. Then put the belt back turn the engine very very slowly to prove there is no fouling on the valves.

Yes I am going to get the kit if a I can confirm the engine is not trash

The issue is though that the only hole i can find in the flywheel is the one shown in the picture and it wont line up with the hole the timing pin inserts in through the crankcase as its in the wrong place diametrically. Its almost as if it has been drilled to far inboard in the flywheel by about 1/4 inch. So if I leave the cam pin out and rotate the engine to try and get the flywheel pin in it just wont.? Its not a case of the flywheel being out of position rotationally.


Hope this makes sense had six hours at it today outside in the rain so I may have missed something
cheers

Gary

I wish Kama and a special place in hell for the scum that keyed it.

I remember replacing my timing belt about four years ago and having problems lining up the timing rod with the hole in the flywheel, couldn't find the hole (ooo er mrs) until I used a mirror and a torch to find the exact position, If I was doing or rather when I do it again I will use a mobile phone.

The timing hole on the flywheel is shown in the recent movie by Gary Redman.

At 34:03 the timing hole is at 11 o'clock, The hole in your picture is at 5 o'clock

At 34:35 the timing hole is at 10 o' clock,

So the timing hole you are showing is not the one you want, you are 180 degrees out

&t=2459s

Ahh ok thanks for that. I see now.

given this and I am 180 out on the flywheel if I move it this distance (or 180 plus one revolution)to put it right and get the pin in I am guessing the camshaft pin hole is going to be miles away from where it needs to be.

I guess this means that the timing has jumped when the plastic came off the tensioner pulley and valve/piston collision is likely? Do you think it would be prudent to remove the rocker cover and have a look to see if valves etc are going back where they should? I still cannot see how the timing has jumped without damaging the belt but hey ho

thanks for the help

Gary

You won't know until you set the timing with either or both holes in the correct position, check that first before proceeding with any strip down, are you feeling lucky

Right so I have just reset the timing as per the correct pin holes on both the cam and flywheel. I had to move the cam about 1/4 of a turn to make it right and had to wiggle things around to avoid catching valves

I retensioned the belt using the old damaged tensioner pulley and spun the engine over carefully. No binding no strange noises and good compression as far as I could tell on all cylinders.

Do you think I have got lucky? Or do I still need to strip the valve cover off?

I know I will need a timing belt kit can anyone recommend a quality one?

I'd replace the damaged tensioner, and try it. I'd not replace the belt just for testing, only after I knew the engine was still going to function correctly. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

I would purchase the full timing belt kit with water pump if the kit doesn't have it purchase a new crank bolt. Also look at replacing the Aux belt and it's gubbins too

Gates or INA kits seem to be in favor currently after reported faults with Dayco tensioners, plenty of bad reports on google

But and its a big but I purchased a Gates Kit the box was factory sealed and it had a Dayco badged tensioner so I bought an INA tensioner, you could always ask before purchase.

Live and learn

I have purchased the full Gates kit complete with pump from a local reliable shop. Just waiting for the locking pin kit to come through in the post. Fingers crossed I have got very lucky (apart from the great big scratch down the side from some Ahole)

Hopefully fitting the new kit over the weekend then trying it.

I will let you know how I get on

thanks for all the help!!

Gary

Quick question i have rotated the tensioner counter clockwise to tension and set the belt as per the arrow on the tensioner body. The couple of vids I have seen show it being rotated clockwise. Which is correct?

Can't help with that question, but make sure the drain on the water pump is nipped up. Mine wasn't on my Gates kit, and I had a slow leak, as some other forum members have also experienced. Good luck