Morning folks.

I’ve just bought a very tidy 2013 GS which drives well, has two previous owners and was serviced by an independent specialist for the last 5 years.

Just thinking ahead and I have the following list of things I’m thinking about.

4 new tyres and tracking as one tyre is scuffed
Figuring out of the whine after stopping is a problem (5-10 minutes)
Haldex service (having previously had one fail)
New timing belt and water pump (necessary or not at 62k / 11 years)
Inspect intercooler hoses

Any thoughts on priorities or things I’ve missed? I want to do as much as I can myself and I have a fair selection of tools and equipment though not a pro.

Thanks
Simon

Last edited by Gurmot on 27th May 2024 10:48 am. Edited 1 time in total

The timing belt change (and water pump) should have been done at 7 years and it’s a maximum of 7 regardless of low mileage so it’s either not due for 3 years or well overdue if it’s not been changed.
The differential, gearbox and PTU all benefit from fluid changes regardless of JLR’s scrimping ‘sealed for life’ label. Life is longer with fluid changes and they don’t care if it fails once out of warranty. Oil is much cheaper than hardware.

I have contacted the inde garage (WJ Joyce in Trowbridge) to see if they will tell me what’s been done so I can plan accordingly. 7 years isn’t long for a timing belt though, I thought most were 10 years / around 100k miles.

Thought you had found a car with only 6000 miles by the title 🤔 Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Doh! Sorry about that, it should have read 62k, now corrected

Originally the cam belt service interval was 10 years or 150,000 miles. JLR reduced it and given JLR’s very lax servicing for anything that shouldn’t break in their warranty period they must have had a reason. Saying that, there are not many instances on this forum of cam belts breaking. It’s your car but I know from experience (not with my FL2) that a scheduled change of a belt, tensioners, water pump and ancillary belt is way less expensive and inconvenient than having a cam belt break.
(Edited to correct service interval)

Last edited by BossBob on 27th May 2024 1:25 pm. Edited 1 time in total

"Originally the cam belt service interval was 10,000 miles"

No, the very early vehicles were 150,000 miles. Then JLR reduced it to 70,000

Was never every 10,000.

Remember the engine. 2.2ltr, is a Ford - Peugeot unit.


FL2 ...... The Best Ford x Ford x Far

"Figuring out of the whine after stopping is a problem (5-10 minutes) "


Mine has done that for the 9.5 years Ive owned it (from 5K miles to 61K miles) . I think its the throttle body motor. Doesnt seem to be a problem. Jules

Last edited by jules on 28th May 2024 4:03 pm. Edited 2 times in total

Well that’s good to know. If it’s not a problem and/or not likely to result in it being out of service, I will focus on other priorities.
Thanks 1964 Series 2a (ex military 8
2013 Freelander 2 GS auto
2020 Defender 110

I have just bought a 194k miles XS SD$ auto from the local auction for £1800. Looks in good order, and serviced well in the first 125k miles but the belt was changed at 124k miles, so I will have to do a full service. I now have three FL2's, 2008, 2009, and 2013. One might become a lifeline for the others yet, as they both have newish differentials, one has transfer-bevel box as well. The 2008 has a 2010 85k engine in it. We will have to appraise the car when its collected. So 64k is just run in.

I would second the changing of all fluids. I did this after buying mine and although there was no evidence something was about to break, it has given peace of mind.

I would also suggest checking for rust underneath the car, remove the wheel arch "protectors" and give everything a good check/clean and then considering something like Lanoguard for some rust protection. FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - tailgate paint issues, fuel gauge rewire, transfer box failure at 36k miles, clutch at 60k
Reconditioned diff at 70k ish
Sold at 84k and now on a DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental
Now greatly regret selling the Outlander. MPG of the FL2 is atrocious and so are the fuel bills. Fun though 😎

Thanks for the rust advice, as my 2008 car is rusty round the rear floor pan and sill ends, hence a later car to play with.