Now I know what is supposed to happen ….. but checking if I’ve done something wrong or any other suggestions.

2014 2.2 TD4. Owned since 2017, so unlikely anyone else has changed or topped up the auto oil (was dealer serviced)

So I was just checking the level ahead of a change. More to see the state of the oil and see if the drain plus were seized etc.

Engine was warm. Done about 3 miles from cold. Before i stopped it draining through the overflow (centre torx only) i let out the amount in the attached photo. Engine was off.

Now I’m not sure what to do when I drain and refill. Do I put back in the volume of oil I get out, or do I follow protocol and allow the excess to drain out. Or have I failed with protocol. Drained oil was about 45C.

The other question I have is the colour of the oil. Looks a bit darker than I was hoping or expecting. On a tissue it doesn’t look awful mind you, but certainly no red hint left in it.

Car has done 83,000km/50,000 miles.

Put the oil back in, then change it. And put the same volume back.
The correct oil level is found with the engine running and the centre plug removed at about 60°c.
At 50000 it's probably just the right time for a change. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Thanks. I later figured that’s where I went wrong. Putting back same volume kinda feels right.

Have a little issue with getting the filler undone at the moment, but off for an adapter so I can get my windy gun on it. While leaving with anti seize in the mean time.

Putting the oil onto kitchen towel and looking up various guides it’s at the “not knackered but change now” condition.

Check out Modified Gibbons method in search

Thanks

DirtyDuck wrote:

Thanks. I later figured that’s where I went wrong. Putting back same volume kinda feels right.

Have a little issue with getting the filler undone at the moment, but off for an adapter so I can get my windy gun on it. While leaving with anti seize in the mean time.

Putting the oil onto kitchen towel and looking up various guides it’s at the “not knackered but change now” condition.

All done now. If anyone’s come here looking for inspiration, I can add the following summary.

It’s actually pretty easy. Having the engine running for the final top up is essential to avoid a significant underfill. Volumes for me:-

Even with engine running and at 50C, mine was 500ml “overfilled”
From the factory. I have chosen to replicate that factory volume.

In addition another litre comes out when you turn the engine off.

And when you drain it all, I had a 3.6 litre drain. About 50% of the total fill.

Although not specified, I did 3 changes. That gives you 50% change on the first swap, 75% on the second and 87.5% on the 3rd. It’s a law of diminishing returns. Twice would be the sweet spot I think. (The revised gibbons method I felt was too risky to get wrong)

And the payback. OMG, smoother gear changes. On the first and even better on the 2nd. On the flat the changes are imperceptible. Better than I ever recall TBH. We’ve had the cat since 21,000 miles. Is recommend a single change every 25,000 miles - it’s easy if done when you have the under tray off for the oil change.

Final tips:-

Undo the fill plug before you start. I needed a socket extension bar so I could get the leverage. If it had been my only car I would have been off in a taxi!

You’ll need and 17mm hex drive, which you probably don’t have. And two torx. And you should change the washer and o ring on the drain.

Well done. THe fillerg plug can be very difficult to remove so should always be checked before draining the ATF.

IIRC someone on here had to weld a nut on top of it as the hex pwas to ocorroded. Jules

Mine was better after 2 changes, but I think I had the oil temp closer to the specified 60 degrees the second time, so the level was probably more accurate.

It's very satisfying to do things like that yourself.

Changed the ATF today using the Gibbons method - intermittent flush.

Easy now that I have use of the 4 post ramp on the farm next door again.

Easier and less messy than the drain and fill method that I had used before.

Its easy to collect the return flow from the ATF cooler into a 5L container marked off in Litres, and stop and replace after 3L have been pumped out. The rate of ATF flow is very manageable.
I just held a plastic can with a large funnel over the end of the disconnected hose.





Thanks to everyone who offered advice on the many similar threads about changing the ATF.

Also checked the PTU level and topped it up whilst I was under the car. Jules

Last edited by jules on 23rd Sep 2024 6:11 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Regarding taking the level at 60C.

I cannot access the ATF temp.

So I let the engine warm up until the coolant temp was up to 90C (using Torque Pro) and removed the level plug - the drained ATF was 58C - so almost spot on. Jules

I envy you for having the use of the 4 post ramp jules, especially now the weather is less friendly...

To get the the gearbox temp I have to tell my iCarsoft v2.0 that my car is a 2012 Evoque...

I did put a post on another thread (think it was one of Arctics) n here about it...