Just wondering what mileage this is due at. Cant see anything in the manual.


Thanks Mark

JLR service schedule say 150k miles/ 10 years (or when it packs up) - which ever is the sooner

I changed my PTU oil at 40K miles - very awkward sucking it out as there is no drain hole. Jules

As said above, LR recommended 150k, however the PTU seldom lasts to this ridiculously extended chance interval.
Best change it nice and early if you can, 50k being far more sensible, same with the rear diff. The Haldex is best done at 30k intervals, in line with the VW (also use the Haldex) intervals. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

I change my Rear Diff and PTU oils at 24,000 miles I have done the drilling one of the case bolts on the PTU as a sump plug mod. Works a treat so easy to fill it up and remove the required 120mm

The Auto Box on mine has the fluid fully changed every 24,000 miles using the Modified Gibbons Method again so easy to do.

Chips - have you got a link to the modified gibbons that you use ? Jules

I recently did my PTU, and rear diff oil changes, i would also like the link to the gibbons method for the Auto oil which i intend to do come spring and have a good weekends weather.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic39481.html

Sorry I couldn't find a specific FL2 link to the Gibbons flush, there are lots of articles on Google mostly on the Volvo Fora and a few movies on You Tube also do a search on our forum

It's a two person process, you need someone to turn the engine on and off on cue.

I use a Modified Method. the modifications are

a. Instead of taking the return pipe off the Auto box fluid cooler I use the lower connection of the two lines from the cooler to auto box, it's a Torx bolt, easy to undo.
Make sure the O ring comes out with the pipe, sometimes it can stick in the pipe hole it's easy to get out also I suggest you purchase a couple of new O rings. When you put the connection back don't overtighten it as the torque is only 7 ftib !!! The case is ally and the bolt is steel !!!!

b. I don't drop the first flush out the bottom of the box but run it through the pipe into the waste container. The box is filled with three litres of fluid and the process repeated. I found that three flushes after the initial one is enough to get it back to the fresh red colour, you may need more flushes.
The last fill is again of three litres making twelve litres of new fluid in total. The O ring is put back on the connector and the torx bolt torqued to 7 ftib !!! The final stage is to do the Auto box level check by the book.

"a. Instead of taking the return pipe off the Auto box fluid cooler I use the lower connection of the two lines from the cooler to auto box, it's a Torx bolt, easy to undo.
Make sure the O ring comes out with the pipe, sometimes it can stick in the pipe hole it's easy to get out also I suggest you purchase a couple of new O rings. When you put the connection back don't overtighten it as the torque is only 7 ftib !!! The case is ally and the bolt is steel !!!!"

Do you need to temporarily blank off the return hose hole in the autobox case?

I presume you just let the old fluid get pumped out via the disconnected lower hose ? Jules

Quote:

I Like Chips wrote:

Sorry I couldn't find a specific FL2 link to the Gibbons flush, there are lots of articles on Google mostly on the Volvo Fora and a few movies on You Tube also do a search on our forum

It's a two person process, you need someone to turn the engine on and off on cue.

I use a Modified Method. the modifications are

a. Instead of taking the return pipe off the Auto box fluid cooler I use the lower connection of the two lines from the cooler to auto box, it's a Torx bolt, easy to undo.
Make sure the O ring comes out with the pipe, sometimes it can stick in the pipe hole it's easy to get out also I suggest you purchase a couple of new O rings. When you put the connection back don't overtighten it as the torque is only 7 ftib !!! The case is ally and the bolt is steel !!!!

b. I don't drop the first flush out the bottom of the box but run it through the pipe into the waste container. The box is filled with three litres of fluid and the process repeated. I found that three flushes after the initial one is enough to get it back to the fresh red colour, you may need more flushes.
The last fill is again of three litres making twelve litres of new fluid in total. The O ring is put back on the connector and the torx bolt torqued to 7 ftib !!! The final stage is to do the Auto box level check by the book.

Ive saved as I link for the summer's tasks.

Something I should have done before. Jules

Jules
No need to blank the Auto box hole. Just be sure that when you pull the connector out as I have mentioned, make sure you have the O ring and you have the waste container ready to put the pipe straight into also when the engine is started it takes a few seconds maybe say four or five seconds for the flow to start hold the pipe into the waste container, but on start up don't hold the pipe end in the waste fluid unless you want fluid everywhere.

Arctic Yes and there are earlier posts by others