Hi all,

I recently bought a Freelander 2 SD4 and wanted to give it a little more oomph.

I've read that the auto box is only good for 325 lb ft according to manufacturer specs. All the remaps I can find exceed this by varying margins. Even the ones from specialist Land Rover tuners.

The only one I can find that comes close to not substantially exceeding the max torque figures is a Celtic Tuning economy map that gives 215bhp and 335 ft lb.

Any thoughts or recommendations would be welcome.

Thanks,
Bob

My advice would be to leave it alone. These cars are fragile enough at the best of times without pushing your luck. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Fragile?

Thought the later modes were pretty much sorted, what have i let myself in for?

Well I bought my latest one because the FL2 is a great car but given my own family experiences I wouldn't own one without a warranty and I haven't had the nerve yet to tell my sons that I have bought another one.  3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

for me the SD4 with the auto box is pretty much sorted in standard. I would maybe go for a remap to smooth out the curves but not really that bothered.

I do find it incredible that the tolerances on manual and auto are so close to the limit, even without people wanting to remap it just cuts things a bit too close for comfort.

I would speak to Alive Tuning to discuss as they know LR products inside out and should be able to tell you whats possible without damaging things.

Spoke with Alive who informed me that their remap takes the vehicle to 220bhp and 339lb ft. So in real world terms only 4.5% above spec. Also that the manufacturer figures are conservative with a margin of safety built in.

Additionally I've found out from my own research that is the same gearbox as Volvo use in the XC70 etc which Polestar remap to 347lb ft. So that gives me some comfort.

You presumably don't have a warranty? 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Bobfog wrote:

Spoke with Alive who informed me that their remap takes the vehicle to 220bhp and 339lb ft. So in real world terms only 4.5% above spec. Also that the manufacturer figures are conservative with a margin of safety built in.

Additionally I've found out from my own research that is the same gearbox as Volvo use in the XC70 etc which Polestar remap to 347lb ft. So that gives me some comfort.

I agree it is about the low down toque and mid range. I don't expect to turn it into a sports car, hence the modest increase to 220bhp and 339lb ft of the alive remap appeals to me, vs some of the other maps out there quoting 235-240bhp.

I've had plenty of remapped cars and no issues with any of them, I always do my own due diligence and look to see what the component specs of different parts can handle and look at other vehicles using such parts to see what figures are being put through as a comparison to judge reliability.

I do however take the point that if something does go bang, any warranty claim will likely be rejected just because they can wriggle out of it, based on that technicality regardless of whether the remap can be directly blamed or not.

Food for thought.

It's not like the car isn't sufficient, but given the comfortable ride I just feel like a little more low to mid range power would add to the wafting along nicely factor.

Just interested in this rear diff issue... was this resolved with better/bigger bearings on the 2013> models?

Have a look at thread www.freel2.com/forum/topic23661.html

The following extract on the penultimate page gives us hope I suppose.

austen_fl2 wrote:

Give me a call, it will be far easier to talk through it with you. I have only seen diffs with 2013/14 manufacture dates that take the larger bearing kit as standard. All diffs with 06-12 dates use the smaller bearing. There is a so called "harder" bearing, but this is the same size and I'm yet to believe the bearing is any harder than a top quality Timken bearing

So would a 2013 on a 13 plate with the facelift and new dash layout, have a 2013 stamped diff or could old part have been hanging around?

if its a 13 plate it will be MY13 so SHOULD have all the latest components and updates etc.
If its a 62 plate it could be MY12 or MY13 depending on build date.
However if yours has the updated dash, steering wheel, etc then it will by 2013 MY13 (March 2013 > ) and I believe this final facelift had larger rear diff bearing, revised software etc etc etc that pretty much irons out all the previous issues.

Mine is a 2013 MY13 with 47k on the clock and full history approved LR etc.... but ill still be looking at getting the Haldex serviced by Bell engineering later in the year.

if the diffs are date stamped does anyone know where the stamp is? Is it easy to find? 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

ref diff stamp I saw a mention of this from Austen of Bell Engineering(drivetrain wizard)I am sure he said he had seen diffs in for rebuild with a 2014 stamp on
so he would be the man to ask where it is.