BossBob wrote:

This is the monitor I use, there are others that may be more or less effective and or expensive.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Battery-Monitor-C...amp;sr=8-5
This shows the data for 15 days with a charging period shown. There’s a couple of 2 hour drives there as well.

Click image to enlarge

This shows yesterday with a short journey, followed by a couple of longer drives and washing the car with doors opening etc.

Click image to enlarge

Thanks, BossBob.
I will add this to my ever growing list of must haves m8

May be worth checking for any signs of damage on the blue LIN bus wire to the alternator, ours only showed an issue when it was cold, due to contraction of copper wires I guess. Some links to threads on this below, also do a search as lots of info and photos on the site forums:

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32228.html

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic28421.html


Good luck and let us know how you get on please  Current: FL2 64 plate Black SD4 Auto Metropolis
Gone: FL2 2006 Tambora Flame Orange 2.2 TD4 manual HSE - (90K KM - 268K KM, LHD in CH)

Evening,

Thanks for that bit of info m8.
I will check that out tomorrow and let you know how I get on.

The first job will be installing a new ground from the battery to the starter motor. My car looks like it is one of the early ones, where this was not installed.

Then I will work through all of the things that have been suggested and/or I have found out on YouTube.

Cheers Again

mdpslm wrote:

May be worth checking for any signs of damage on the blue LIN bus wire to the alternator, ours only showed an issue when it was cold, due to contraction of copper wires I guess. Some links to threads on this below, also do a search as lots of info and photos on the site forums:

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32228.html

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic28421.html


Good luck and let us know how you get on please

Morning,
Just a follow-up on this one.
Yesterday, I finally managed to get under the bonnet and start looking at my problems as per the last posts.
Firstly, I fitted a new ground from the battery to the starter motor bolt.
Then, checked the blue LINbus wire for damage. From what I could see, that looked clean with no visible damage at all.

I then used my new meter to test the battery from cold with no crank. That read 11.49v. Which made me think that a new battery is needed...
I then started the car. (Note* the temperature was +5deg.) She started straight away and ticked over quite normally.
I rechecked the battery, which was charging at around 14.37v, Which, seemed normal.
It ticked over for 3-5 minutes perfectly fine, then the tick-over suddenly changed and started to gun and labour very slightly. I rechecked the battery with the meter and yep, the voltage was reacting to the change in tick over. Going from 14.39v to 11.00 ish and back up.
(NOTE* when I got back in the car, the battery light was now on, but there was no sign of the HDC Fault code).
So, I turned off the engine and left it for 30 mins. Came back and checked the battery again. 12.4v!
Restarted the car and she started perfectly with no battery light on and the tick-over was as sweet as a nut. The battery was charging quite normally!
I left it ticking over for 20 minutes with no problem. Then, went for a drive for about 5 miles and got back. No probs at all. Parked her up and then left her until about 5 pm, when it was dark. Checked the battery, which was still at 12.4v. Started it up and put the battery under load, with heater, lights etc. It took less than 5 mins before the whole cycle started again.
So, the new ground has made no difference at all!
And, while I do think that a new battery is needed, it kinda does not seem to me to be the cause of the problem.
Everything seems to be pointing back towards the Alternator, at the moment.
I will learn how to check that out later today, so I can have a play, before going any further.

I will also be having words with my garage this morning, as this problem seems to be getting worse now, as in, showing itself even when the temperature is higher. And, it is happening more frequently.
The last time I left it with them, they kept getting no fault codes and good charging from the Alternator to the battery and so, wanted to send it away to their Electronics Wiz kid for diagnosis... Lots of dosh too...

Anyway Guy's, that's where I am at on this gremlin, so far...

Regards
Steve

You may have seen this

&list=PLVsGvNkPZC6pQlIozc4DS2sPioo-TLhqa&index=18

Steve.HST wrote:

sebastian_n7 wrote:

There are documented cases on the forum where replacement alternators or glow plugs were actually duff so yet another replacement is required. May be worth some testing.

I experienced the alternator and glow plug issues where the clutch was not charging correctly and the freewheeling clutch was seized, plus cold start issues below zero due to faulty glow plugs. In my case, after replacement, the speed of the engine was no longer changing when large electrical loads were kicking in, so the alternator was now charging correctly. Same for glow plugs, after replacement it starts ‘on the key’ in minus 5 Celsius. I’d say it starts quicker than when the engine is warm

I’d certainly check those items.

Thanks for replying.

I am just awaiting some other bits n pieces to arrive and the rain to come to a stop here. (Been raining now pretty much for three days. And, I don't have the luxury of a garage)
Currently spending most of my time on U Tube, trying to learn everything I can about the possible issues and planning where to start and how to use all this new stuff, I've got.

So glad to have come across this site though. And, having everyone's comments and seeing other posts is really helping me to get my head round everything.

Hiya, Yes is the answer to that!

We have an Auto and have always pressed the start button to allow everything to get checked, before depressing the brake and starting the car.

As to getting the next size-up battery, that's a great idea.

Having gone to my garage today, both the battery and the alternator are going to be replaced under warranty, which is good news. So, I guess that I could ask to get the next battery up and pay the difference...
And, as the issues actually kicked off while the mechanic was checking over the car. They are also going to replace the main power cable from the battery to the alternator.

Fingers crossed that this is gonna give me back our car all healthy again so that I can get out and enjoy driving it, as we have got some adventures planned for the New Year... :thumbs-up:

Thanks for replying

Ask if they'll fit a Yuasa 110 battery instead, and pay the extra few £.

 Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Morning,
As it goes, that is exactly the battery that was suggested to me by my garage.
They have said that they have moved over to Yuasa batteries from Bosch in the last year, because of their reliability.

GOOD SHOUT THOUGH m8 :thumbs-up:

Thank You

An additional battery to engine earth cable is a good idea too - a common modification on here. Jules

I had the same cold starting issues, so I've added the extra earth lead and fitted a Yuasa 5000 battery. The cold starting problem is now history. Happy (winter) mornings! -------------------------------------------------------------
1965 Series IIa Safari LWB White - gone
1982 RR 2 door Sahara dust - gone
2000 Freelander 1 3 door white gold - gone
1995 Discovery 1 200Tdi Biaritz Blue - gone
2009 FL2 TD4 HSE Stornoway Grey

jules wrote:

An additional battery to engine earth cable is a good idea too - a common modification on here.

jules wrote:

An additional battery to engine earth cable is a good idea too - a common modification on here.

OK .
Your wiring is a bit different to mine.


 Jules

I don’t know what that is either Jules totally different to mine.