I have two remotes, both original, one refurbed about 2 years ago. After a year of normal use, swapping them every so often to keep the internal batteries charged, both have stopped working.

The refurb now doesn't work at all, the original will lock the car, but not unlock it.

I don't think it's an issue with the actuators, as the doors lock and unlock with the dash buttons perfectly well.

Anybody got any ideas? Is it as simple as the remote's internal batteries failing? Previous

2008 Freelander 2 i6
1997 Range Rover p38 4.6 V8
2003 Range Rover L322 4.4V8
1989 Range Rover Classic 3.9 V8
2003 Land Rover 90 Td5
2000 Range Rover p38 2.5dHSE
1975 Land Rover 90 SIII 2.25 petrol
1996 Range Rover p38 4.0 V8
1990 Discovery 3.5i V8 (3 door)
1973 Range Rover Classic 3.5 V8 (2 door, ex-Police)

Can you not just put a new battery in and see what happens?

Mine takes a 2032 - just clips in and out.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic36459.html?highlight=key+fob


IIRC earlier fobs are slightly different in some way Jules

Point taken.

I hope the earlier fob I've got is user serviceable.

However according to the manual, its got a rechargeable battery and you're advised to use the second key occasionally to keep the charge up.

Any body for experience of the earlier fob please? Previous

2008 Freelander 2 i6
1997 Range Rover p38 4.6 V8
2003 Range Rover L322 4.4V8
1989 Range Rover Classic 3.9 V8
2003 Land Rover 90 Td5
2000 Range Rover p38 2.5dHSE
1975 Land Rover 90 SIII 2.25 petrol
1996 Range Rover p38 4.0 V8
1990 Discovery 3.5i V8 (3 door)
1973 Range Rover Classic 3.5 V8 (2 door, ex-Police)

2008 fob battery is soldered in and recharged by the key receptacle.

Here's a link to videos on the procedure,

https://www.google.com/search?q=lr2+key+fo...&dpr=2

Here's the info, cross-checked with several sites (some soldering required)

To change the battery of the earlier version Land Rover Freelander 2 key fob

Remove the emergency key and pry the case apart with a small coin or screwdriver.

Remove the circuit board and the battery. The battery has two prongs that need to be de-soldered.

Replace the battery with a new one, preferably a genuine Panasonic VL2330 battery.

Re-solder the battery prongs and reassemble the circuit board and the case.

Press and hold each button on the key fob for at least five seconds to drain any residual power. Previous

2008 Freelander 2 i6
1997 Range Rover p38 4.6 V8
2003 Range Rover L322 4.4V8
1989 Range Rover Classic 3.9 V8
2003 Land Rover 90 Td5
2000 Range Rover p38 2.5dHSE
1975 Land Rover 90 SIII 2.25 petrol
1996 Range Rover p38 4.0 V8
1990 Discovery 3.5i V8 (3 door)
1973 Range Rover Classic 3.5 V8 (2 door, ex-Police)

I would secure a newfob casing, use same circuit board and re and re the battery. Make sure you get the exact replacement battery to solder in. Initally, I reused my case but decided to replace it ultimately.

MotionInc wrote:

2008 fob battery is soldered in and recharged by the key receptacle.

Here's a link to videos on the procedure,

Also check new battery with multimeter. I have had the odd one under voltage & was going around in circles. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

If one button works, and one not, then it's very likely that the button has failed. It's just a tactile button so has a limited life.
I'm guessing the refurbishment didn't include replacing the buttons, which I'd do if doing a refurb myself.

The one that's not working at all has probably got a broken battery connection.

Just so you know, the fobs only charge in the dock when the buttons are uppermost. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Took both circuit boards out of my old original key and the refurb and tested the naked buttons. Discovered that the refurb board did nothing, whilst my original did all the tricks.

On closer inspection, I saw that the board from the refurb key was missing the brown battery cradle and had an incorrect battery, not a VL2330, just soldered to the back of the board.

As you'd expect, the pressure of using the refurb key fob had broken the solder. (See photos)

So beware refurb specialists who throw away the brown cradle and use any old battery!




 Previous

2008 Freelander 2 i6
1997 Range Rover p38 4.6 V8
2003 Range Rover L322 4.4V8
1989 Range Rover Classic 3.9 V8
2003 Land Rover 90 Td5
2000 Range Rover p38 2.5dHSE
1975 Land Rover 90 SIII 2.25 petrol
1996 Range Rover p38 4.0 V8
1990 Discovery 3.5i V8 (3 door)
1973 Range Rover Classic 3.5 V8 (2 door, ex-Police)

Thanks for the update and glad you got this sorted!