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Santas_satan



Member Since: 05 Apr 2023
Location: Seattle
Posts: 43

United States 2008 LR2 i6 HSE Auto Orkney Grey
P0016 error

I seem to have a persistent P0016 error on our 08 i6 LR2. Things I have already done without solving the problem:


Oil change, previous oil was really bad when I bought it
Swapped the CPS sensors out
Replaced the vct solenoid
Replaced pcv valve
Replaced sparkplug
Sealed the vacuum booster as it was leaking badly

Am a bit at a loss at the moment. Would it take time for the ecu to sync back after clearing the codes but they seem to come back pretty quickly. About 180k miles on the engine. 1969 Land Rover Series 2a 88
1995 Range Rover Classic TWR
2008 Land Rover Freelander 2 I6
and more.....

Post #432890 29th May 2023 8:32 pm
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I Like Chips



Member Since: 25 Jun 2017
Location: Ascott Under Wychwood
Posts: 1540

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Indus Silver

Don' know about the petrol engines but

I take it you have set the static timing using the timing tools

Can you use a scope

Post #432896 30th May 2023 6:40 am
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lrman



Member Since: 15 May 2023
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 93

United Kingdom 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Auto Baltic Blue

I also don't know the petrol engine but, if I understand correctly, that code says there is a mismatch between the camshaft position sensor and the crankshaft position sensor? So have you checked/changed both of these?

I would also be checking there is ground and power to each and that you get something sensible on the signal line. Assuming they are 3 wire of course.
If that looks good then do you get the same results at the ECU end? FL2 2007 2.2d Auto SE. Baltic Blue.

Post #432897 30th May 2023 6:50 am
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Nodge68



Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Newquay
Posts: 2082

United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Rimini Red

Does the engine run?
If not then check the cam position sensor as suggested. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Post #432901 30th May 2023 7:53 am
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Santas_satan



Member Since: 05 Apr 2023
Location: Seattle
Posts: 43

United States 2008 LR2 i6 HSE Auto Orkney Grey

Engine runs and I swapped the cam sensors. I have a crank sensor coming in probably this week and will see if that might do the trick. It actually idles not even that bad.
. 1969 Land Rover Series 2a 88
1995 Range Rover Classic TWR
2008 Land Rover Freelander 2 I6
and more.....

Post #432919 30th May 2023 2:10 pm
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p_gill



Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1236

United States 2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

Take a look at this thread

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic38702.html?highlight=p0016

I suspect that you have a bad Solenoid. either Variable Valve Lift or Variable Valve Timing

Quote:
The Intake has Variable Valve timing and Variable Valve lift.

Variable Valve Timing (1 solenoid per engine)
https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr2-35/p...le-113192/
30731116, Volvo
31251224, Volvo
36002690, Volvo
7G9N9M424AA, FORD
LR011224 LAND ROVER


Variable Valve Lift (2 solenoids per engine)
LR025967 Land Rover
31216281 Volvo



It is also possible that you have an oil pressure problem (these valves run on oil pressure)
Under the paper oil filter is a valve that fails and it allows oil to go directly back to the pan which drops the pressure for the rest of the engine. The next time you change the oil check to see if you have a little black disc or if it is missing.

Good luck

Paul

Post #432921 30th May 2023 3:01 pm
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merlinj79



Member Since: 13 Aug 2019
Location: San Diego
Posts: 315

United States 2008 LR2 i6 S Auto Tambora Flame

Run the correct oil weight specified for your i6 (it seems to vary by country and/or MY).

Also check for damage to wiring harnesses and connectors. I've had rodent issues (in a big city, with a daily driver).

If you haven't already, read the shop manual section on engine controls. They use odd nomenclature for the sensors so you want to make sure you're replacing the right parts...

"CMP" = cam position sensor
"CKP" = crank position sensor
"CPS" = cam profile switching solenoid


Last edited by merlinj79 on 30th May 2023 3:49 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Post #432922 30th May 2023 3:15 pm
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Santas_satan



Member Since: 05 Apr 2023
Location: Seattle
Posts: 43

United States 2008 LR2 i6 HSE Auto Orkney Grey

I swapped the solenoids already and was wondering about oil pressure. Would changing to 10w30 from 5w30 make a difference?

When I changed the oil it was black as soot from the previous owner so couldn't really see anything. Would that valve be available separately oil Would I need toswap the entire housing? 1969 Land Rover Series 2a 88
1995 Range Rover Classic TWR
2008 Land Rover Freelander 2 I6
and more.....

Post #432923 30th May 2023 3:28 pm
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merlinj79



Member Since: 13 Aug 2019
Location: San Diego
Posts: 315

United States 2008 LR2 i6 S Auto Tambora Flame

5W30 is probably what a USA 2008 i6 is speced for, but I think the oil cap is labelled with the correct weight. I'd stick with that.

If the oil was nasty, decent chance those oil-driven solenoids could get gunked up over time.

I'd suggest a good synthetic, that will not only prevent most build-up, it can actually dissolve some existing gunk which might even fix the problem. Could take a while though.

Like Paul said, I'd check the anti-drain back valve at the bottom of the oil filter housing. You can do it now, just unscrew the top and pull the cartridge out. Also use a quality oil filter, who knows what Brand X might do to your oil pressure.

Post #432924 30th May 2023 3:41 pm
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p_gill



Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1236

United States 2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

I helped a different 3.2 owner on the other board and he fixed this code by replacing the VVT solenoid.

https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr2-35/p...192/page2/

Quote:
Hello... In closing I did replace the oil control solenoid. Found a Gates VVS194 for $66.00 and runs perfect. Turns out the P0016 and P0018 are triggered by the bank 1 and 2 (intake cam for VVT diagnostic purposes) are triggered by the intake cam not being in sync with the exhaust cam. It did take a bit for the ECU to sort itself out but all is well now.


As for the Anti drain valve

https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr2-35/a...der-78803/

I also replaced this part on my Volvo 3.2 (same engine is used by Volvo and Land Rover)

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=87687


Good luck

Paul

PS as for viscosity I use Mobil 1 0W40 or 5W40

Post #432926 30th May 2023 4:11 pm
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Santas_satan



Member Since: 05 Apr 2023
Location: Seattle
Posts: 43

United States 2008 LR2 i6 HSE Auto Orkney Grey

Thanks Paul. Been reading through some of your posts as I am getting more familiar with the volvo engine.

Since the last oil was so bad I am really leaning towards its potentially oil related. I had someone suggesting me to just let the engine idle for a few hours on the new oil and let its detergent do some cleanup in the engine and then do another oil change. Also 5w40, which will increase oil pressure slightly might be a next step after that. I am using MANN filters at the moment, have a few now on the shelf so changes aren't that hard for me.

I just have a hard time thinking it is a skipped timing chain at the moment. 1969 Land Rover Series 2a 88
1995 Range Rover Classic TWR
2008 Land Rover Freelander 2 I6
and more.....

Post #432928 30th May 2023 5:31 pm
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merlinj79



Member Since: 13 Aug 2019
Location: San Diego
Posts: 315

United States 2008 LR2 i6 S Auto Tambora Flame

I haven't heard of timing chain issues with the i6, although I guess anything might be possible if the OCI was neglected long enough.

Post #432930 30th May 2023 6:28 pm
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Santas_satan



Member Since: 05 Apr 2023
Location: Seattle
Posts: 43

United States 2008 LR2 i6 HSE Auto Orkney Grey

Cleared some codes earlier and let it run for a while. The P0016 error stayed away for a long time until the engine heated up which really makes me think it's oil pressure related. I will swap to 10w40 which should increase it slightly and hope that might be solving the issue.

The scanner shows a slight difference between what it needs to be and what it shoes. To be continued.

Click image to enlarge
 1969 Land Rover Series 2a 88
1995 Range Rover Classic TWR
2008 Land Rover Freelander 2 I6
and more.....

Post #432940 30th May 2023 11:06 pm
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p_gill



Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1236

United States 2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

Thanks for the update.


Take a look at this thread

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic31826.ht...ent+repair

On the third page I suggest a possible field expedient repair or temporary solution if you prefer.

Note: the Anti-Drain Valve failed on both of my 3.2's


Good Luck

Paul

Post #432941 31st May 2023 12:06 am
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Santas_satan



Member Since: 05 Apr 2023
Location: Seattle
Posts: 43

United States 2008 LR2 i6 HSE Auto Orkney Grey

It was loose in the housing, but once I got that spring off I could push it back on again. It seemed to somewhat work but for now replaced it with a torx 25 as I will likely have to do another oil change soon to catch up with the previous owners lack of oil changes. I will put the spring and the rubber thingy back in then.

I also swapped to 5w40 but will test it tomorrow as it was 1am when I was done. 1969 Land Rover Series 2a 88
1995 Range Rover Classic TWR
2008 Land Rover Freelander 2 I6
and more.....

Post #432982 1st Jun 2023 7:53 am
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