24k miles on the 2014 XS and I have noticed on the last few trips just once I get like a misfire that goes as quick as it came, seemed to be as I was in 3rd gear accelerating up to changing gear, like I say one missed beat nothing else and all good probably nothing to worry about but thought I would ask in case its a "sign" The car is due its service this month and MOT in August. I have got Millers oil (always have used that) oil filter, cabin filter, air filter and fuel filter (Purflex). I thought it may be fuel filter but the one on there (LR one) about three years old and done only 6k miles.

Thanks for any advice  2014 Freelander 2 XS TD4
Firenze Red

This can be a sign of a failing crank position sensor. Mine did this for a while before the sensor properly failed. It won’t necessarily throw error codes either.

Try searching 'Stutter' on forum.

Quite a lot of posts/threads on the subject. I would suggest Fuel Filter, which will be changed on upcoming service.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/search.php?se...rch_time=0

A couple of the threads from the search that seem relevant.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic20777.html

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic20555.html?highlight=stutter FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

I had this once and tried injector cleaner the whole bottle from Halfords but on a less than half full tank of fuel and left it until the fuel light came on, possibly a case of a dribbling injector but which one? There is a sort of build up of carbon around the injector nozzles so a gentle introduction of a cleaner wouldn’t go amiss.
The stutter didn’t return as the thoughts of removing the injectors was a negative, possibly the crank or cam sensors but try the injector cleaner first.
Another idea? Try shell V max fuel and give it a good run, no harm in trying.
Sticky turbo vanes could be an issue, again try some good quality products sprayed down the air intake, mine seemed far better afterwards plus the fuel consumption was slightly better too afterwards as well.

Thanks for the suggestions this gives me some ideas, maybe try the injector cleaner first then crank position sensor, I will keep you updated thanks again 2014 Freelander 2 XS TD4
Firenze Red

Well, the stutter remained albeit rare once in a while, yesterday on route home from Norfolk I got about 50 miles then the red triangle of grief popped up and restricted performance message with engine management light! I noticed that with loss of power it felt as it was running on three cylinders. Pulled over and stopped the car as it was difficult to keep pace with traffic.
I stopped the car and a few mins passed I tried starting it again. ran perfectly all the way home 80 miles without any issues other than the engine management light being on. Today my mechanic I use put his Autel reader on it and it showed that fuel injector 4 was the problem, occured at 1900rpm (which was right I was cruising in 6th gear). Cleared the codes and rechecked, all ok and management light had gone off. He suggested injector cleaner and to see how it goes.
I guess that why I have been having the odd "misfire stutter" I had it serviced in August and MOT replaced all the filters as well as fuel filter with Purflex one. I guess its time to find a decent cleaner and see how it goes, I wonder if its injector or wiring as it is really intermittent. The good news is the car got me home so can't complain  2014 Freelander 2 XS TD4
Firenze Red

If an injector is logging a code, then it's failing electronically, which a cleaner can't fix. The ECM isn't able to detect a misfire with a single cylinder if it's fuel related, only an in issue with the electrical side of things. These engines use a speed sensor, not a crank position sensor, so it can't monitor individual firing pulses like a petrol ECM can.

I'd have the injector replaced before it fails completely. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

I am grateful for that, I will try the Comma Diesel injector Magic anyway as it wont harm giving things a good "wash", if after that I guess thats the next place to go. Odd that it cleared on the next start up and was so intermittent prior to that and nothing again for the 80 miles or so home after it started?
Looking at injectors, they are very very expensive new and looked at remanufactured ones around £150... Do they need coding to the engine I wonder?
Hoping I wont need one!!! 2014 Freelander 2 XS TD4
Firenze Red

Comma Diesel Magic won't harm anything, and is beneficial so worth the money.

It's probably the injector piezo stack failing, which is unusual as they last well. Normally I'd expect these injectors to give 100k miles of service before issues arise, but there's always going to be the odd one that fails before it's time. However before replacing the injector, it's worth checking the connection for corrosion.

I'd avoid reconditioned injectors as parts aren't available, so reconditioned injectors are often a mix n match of parts from several worn injectors.

Buying new is the best way to guarantee the longest life and optimum performance, especially considering each new injector needs its code be entered into the ECM, which has a cost if you don't have the equipment to DIY.

This is another reason to avoid reconditioned injectors, as the performance spec code will no longer relate to that injector, as the performance characteristics will be different, and life could be limited too.

£300 or so for a new injector isn't bad considering the vehicle was well over £30k when new. An expensive when new vehicle has expensive repairs regardless of age. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.