Hi all.
I have a 2007 Freelander TD4. I'm trying to replace the propshaft but have encountered a problem at the first hurdle. The propshaft rotates when I'm trying to undo the bolts at both ends. I've tried putting it in gear and pressing the brake pedal but to no avail. I've had wheels off the ground and all wheels on the ground. Questions:
1. Is it supposed to do that?
2. Is it a big sign that the Haldex is u/s?
3. If it is supposed to do that how do you lock it to stop it rotating?
Haines doesn't mention anything and I can't find anything online that gives an indication.
Cheers

If you can rotate the propshaft when both front wheels are on the ground/locked by applying the brakes, then the spline connection between the gearbox and PTU has probably failed and the car is FWD only. This is something you need to investigate closer

Copied from Bell Engineerings site:
If the car is suffering from front wheel drive only, there are several possible reasons:-
- The splines between the gearbox and front transfer box have stripped
- The crown wheel and pinion have stripped inside the transfer box

Take a look at the bottom of this page: https://www.bellengineering.co.uk/fault-symptoms

Thanks for that. 👍
I've put it back on the ground and applied the foot brake and it still turns.
When it does turn it it notchy, so you think it might have locked but you apply a little more pressure and it gives and turns again so it sounds like it's likely the splines have worn.
Dare I ask what the fix is for that? 😳

Essentially you've got loss of connection in the driveline with the gearbox and front of the prop.
The Haldex is disengaged with the ignition off and so wont hold the prop.
It is possible to replace the splines but sometimes the damage is worse and getting the damaged splines off can be a major problem.
Several threads on here with pics.

I can only advise to talk to Bell Engineering and also download the freebie JLR workshop manual - it has lots of useful diagrams, making it easier to see what may have gone wrong. Jules

This is just an update so far as I'm trying to fit this in between work commitments. I've been looking at other threads but thought I'd keep this one updated.
This morning I jacked the front of the vehicle up so both front wheels were off the ground. I then did the following:

Rotated o/s wheel - propshaft rotated
Rotated the n/s wheel - Propshaft rotated
Rotated the propshaft - wheels didn't move
Put it into 1st gear
Rotated o/s wheel - propshaft didn't rotate
Same with n/s wheel
Rotated propshaft - wheels didn't move

Just posting this as I don't like unfinished threads and it might be helpful to others.

Rotated o/s wheel - propshaft rotated
Rotated the n/s wheel - Propshaft rotated

Did you try to hold the prop shaft against that rotation and see if the splines gave way as before.?


Put it into 1st gear
Rotated o/s wheel - propshaft didn't rotate
Did the N/S wheel rotate in the opposite direction via the differential ?

Maybe this will help people who are not familiar with the PTU drive line.?

blue - collar with splines connecting the crown wheel tube (which fail causing loss of torque to the propshaft, resulting in FWD only)
yellow - torque path to RH drive shaft
red - torque path to propshaft via bevel gear

RH driveshaft spins independently inside the crown wheel (4) tube. Jules

Cheers Jules.
Good points. I didn't try to hold the prop when turning the wheels. I'll do that next time which will be at the weekend now. I also didn't notice any movement in the opposite wheel when I turned them when out of gear.
I'm pretty sure it'll be a new PTU job tbf. A few weeks ago I noticed that it was loose when I was trying to get to the bottom of a clinking noise. At first I thought it was some play in the propshaft which there is, hence why I was trying to get it off and change it. But I then noticed that the PTU was slightly loose and further investigation found that the top two bolts were completely missing. I secured it and all was ok for a short while but then I started noticing a rotating metallic noise when putting lock on. That appears to be the propshaft bearings. So I was trying to swap it out when I noticed it wouldn't lock in place as I tried undoing the bolts.
The diagram you have kindly posted helps to explain things a lot so thanks for that. Very much appreciated and thanks for your patience.
Although I've had Freelander 1s in the past and I still have my trusty old 90 I'm new to Freelander 2s. Only had this one a few months.

If you havent downloaded the freebie JLR workshop manual then I suggest you do so. Its a very useful pdf with great diagrams and information. Makes Haynes look very inferior.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic10621.html

https://www.dropbox.com/s/n0e6q5jj1l1fe2z/...6-2010.pdf Jules

Jules. Cheers for the link to the manuals. It's a bit hard to use on a phone as it takes ages to find the relevant pages and I can't see a contents page but that might just be my dodgy eyesight! More concerning is the vast number of bloody Fault Codes!!!! 😳

Update on my issue. I jacked it up again yesterday and turned the wheel whilst trying to hold the prop. The wheel snagged but still turned so there's definitely an issue with the PTU. Worn splines somewhere in the system. Just hope the Haldex isn't damaged also!

I've managed to unbolt the front of the prop. Had to use an oil filter removal tool to grip the prop to keep it locked whilst I did the bolts. I have arthritic thumbs so my grip isn't what it was. Front prop came off easily. The back are an absolute pig and I broke the oil filter tool in the process! Only managed to get two bolts out so far. Getting the exhaust backbox off it's rubber mounts was another drama!!!! Took ages.

Today I switched fire to the drivers hub. Just about managed to release the ball joints, wishbone being another pig to get out. I've had to call it a day for now as I have to go into work.

Question, will the driveshaft need removing from the hub or will it just need removing from the PTU?

Try either squirting or rubbing silicon into the rubber mounts or rubber bearings for that matter, you will be surprised at how easy they come off and go back.



Rubber and Silicone the love affair of the century

Wishbone Removal it helps if you have a wishbone extractor tool. There is at least one you tube movie


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184738493465?ha...R7Dc_6HoYQ

Finally, I managed to get the driveshaft out of the hub. I didn't realise how much of it there is that goes into the PTU!
Anyway, I got the PTU support bracket off yesterday as well. This morning I've got the PTU off. Phew.
The splines do indeed appear to be worn so its definitely in need of a new one. Was going to look on Fleabay as funds are tight but I'll be going to Bell Engineering as I don't want to have to do this again anytime soon!

Question: is there a decent way of getting the sleeve out? I'm assuming it's the bit sticking out of the gearbox? I'll try to add a couple of photos.

Having a read I've found the following remedies to the sleeve situation:

1. Pull it out
2. Twist and pull it out
3. Gear box out and cut it off!

Well, it won't just pull out. I've tried twisting it but it rotated in line with the gears.

My worry with trying to cut it off is that:
A. It still might not all come out.
B. I damage it irreparably and end up needing a new gear box.
C. I start doing it, get nowhere then have to try and move the car as I'm borrowing some garage space at work and was only supposed to be for a few days.

I don't want to order a new PTU yet as if I can't sort this I'm contemplating just putting it all back together then selling it on/scrapping it!

Anyone had success in removing these without major drastic action? Any tools that are handy? I've tried molegrips so far.

Any help appreciated.