Just about to replace the wheel nuts. What’s the correct torque setting please?

133nm or 98 Ft/lbs, according to my Haynes manual. Corrosion seems to be a problem in your part of the world, so look out for that and use anti-sieze or some durable lubricant to keep things nice.

Edit: Good points from others about torque settings and where to apply lubricants, so clean and dry threads are probably best.

Last edited by balticblueLR2 on 15th Mar 2023 3:21 am. Edited 1 time in total

If you use a lubricant the you’ll completely upset your torque figure which is probably determined on the basis of dry threads. Putting lube on the threads will increase the clamping force for any given torque figure by anything from 50 to 100 percent, depending on the lube.

As Simon J has said, do not use lubricant on the studs. You should however use some on the hub spigots, that will help prevent the wheels sticking to the hubs. (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Thanks.

balticblueLR2 wrote:

133nm or 98 Ft/lbs, according to my Haynes manual. Corrosion seems to be a problem in your part of the world, so look out for that and use anti-sieze or some durable lubricant to keep things nice.

Can’t say that corrosion in terms of removing wheel nuts from studs or wheels from hubs has ever presented an issue but…

… Swollen wheel nuts can be a problem as I discover every season when I change from summers to winters or winters to summers and think, 'I really must order a new set of wheel nuts'…

No doubt come May 1st, as I struggle to fit the socket onto around a half of the nuts and then struggle to get those nuts out of the socket, I'll think it yet again but then forget all about it until November 1st.



.

If this helps with swollen nuts.
Had the same problem after a puncture.
21mm and 22mm sockets, big problems.
Pulled out the Landrover wheel key from under the spare and there is a slight taper which allows a bit of a grip to start loosening the nuts.
Sorted it by throwing swollen nuts in the scrap bin and a new set from Taggarts landrover.
Only one wheel was affected. Checked every nut and all the rest are fine.
At least on the D2 there was enough room to use a pair of stilsons. Jim A
Fl2 HSE 2010 auto
Disco 2Td5 auto 2002 gone
Disci 1 300Tdi auto 1996 gone

I bought solid wheel nuts, but they loose their shininess over time.

Same wheel nuts for 12 years with no swelling. Don’t know what I’m doing wrong!

BossBob wrote:

Same wheel nuts for 12 years with no swelling. Don’t know what I’m doing wrong!

I don't recall it being a problem on my last car (MY10 XS) but certainly on this car… maybe the wheel nuts were changed to be a bit more blingy at some stage because they are definitely swollen (not all of them) on my current car - they are the factory originals which will be ten years old this November.

First world problems eh?

The way around swollen wheel nuts is easy.
Just buy a 21.5mm socket, which is designed for this issue. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

jw911 wrote:

What’s the correct torque setting please?

Hi,

heard a quote the other day not sure how useful it will be for you mind

"Tighten until they start to strip the thread, then back off 1/4 turn"

 .
my first ever FL2 and I did keep it longer than most other cars!
But its now gone way up Norf

riverblanche wrote:

"Tighten until they start to strip the thread, then back off 1/4 turn"