MY15 SD4 uk spec.
Drove home ok with no problem. Stop and start the engine twice to open gates and garage doors. On the second start 'restricted performance' appeared on the dash. Checked the diagnostic and no error codes. Looked at the dpf and it was on 22. Doesn't need regeneration to empty it until 24, but even at that figure it will continue to drive. Took it for a drive to perform a dpf regeneration and it didn't. FL was low on power all the way because the turbo's not running. Limited to 2k5 revs. Fault codes appeared half way through the trip as below. This is the first time this fault has appeared. Fault seems permanent.

P0046-19 (AF) turbo boost control solenoid - circuit range/performance - general electrical failure - circuit current above threshold.
P0047-11 (AC) turbo boost control solenoid - circuit low - general electrical failure - circuit short to ground.
P259E-73 (EC) turbo A boost control position at low limit - mechanical failure - actuator is stuck closed.

Lots of different views and similar codes from others who have had the same problem. Normally actuator or turbo needs replaced.

Took it home to investigate. Tried cleaning the actuator 5 way connection. Fault still present. Took the connector off and measured the wiring harness resistance to battery negative 0v terminal results as below:

Yellow 1749ohm
Gray 0.2ohm
Yellow blue 10k51ohm
Blue 4meg ohm
White 4meg ohm

Looking at the circuit in the big FL2 maintenance manual on page 3119 shows all 5 wires going directly to the ECM Engine Control Module. Can anyone confirm from their own measurements if the gray wire should be connected directly to 0v?
I don't know if this wire is a 0v signal return path or if the actuator uses it's metal case connection for the 0v return. If so then this is my fault.

Further investigation: actuator arm will move if you push it. Springs back by itself. Followed the wiring harness taking all connectors off other items one at a time, to the top rear of the engine. Only one I can't see to disconnect. Made no difference to the measurement on the gray wire. Took the 3 connectors off the Engine Control Module which sits to the rear of the engine, under the wipers, and the gray wire short to 0v disappears. Through process of elimination I worked out the left and right connectors need to be fitted for the short to appear. Still looking at this but can't find any resistance values other owners have put online for the actuator vane 5 wire connection.

Edit: answer yes, it's a wired 0v singal in the harness. Hippo's videos - Honorary Tratterer

Last edited by Hippo on 26th Aug 2024 3:39 pm. Edited 2 times in total

Sounds like the variable geometry vane's in your turbo are sticking with carbon. If you disconnect the actuator linkage from the module it should move freely. You shouldn't have to push it to get it to move. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

IIRC you shouldn't try to move the vanes until the actuator arm is disconnected from actuator or else the actuator can be damaged . Jules

Yes, quite correct.
The turbo actuator on the Freel2 is a fully electric screw type stepper servo, which contains a feedback loop potentiometer.

Moving it can cause overloading of the stepper gears, which can damage the unit. It's very different to an electro-pneumatic turbo actuator used in other vehicles, which can be moved without damaging them.
I had to change the turbo actuator on the wife's VW Eos a couple of weeks ago. VW use electro-pneumatuc actuators, which are easy to identify as faulty, although not particularly easy to replace, but at least there's no messing about under the vehicle, as they're at the top of the engine. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

I have disconnected the actuator arm and it moves freely (still connected to the turbo). So that should mean the turbo vanes are moving ok and not stuck. There is some resistance on the actuator motor but I’m turning the output end which makes sense. Looking at the wiring diagram again the signal I’m questioning has G_R_ in its name. There’s some 2 wire sensors that have the same on one of their wires so I’m assuming this means ground return. Hence measuring a short to ground must be correct. I questioned this as the fault codes report a short to ground. But that may not be the full story. From what I see there’s a catch 22 setup where the car sends a control. It has two ways of knowing if this has worked. Feedback via turbo movement or the electrical feedback signal on the actuator. The actuator has a pcb inside but I haven’t opened it up to see it. Not sure if it only takes instruction from the car or if it’s capable of a two way conversation. The manual says the car receives feedback via a signal. I think this is the yellow/blue wire. So that leaves me stuck as I don’t know if the car has chosen to stop trying to control the actuator or not. Lots of others on ere and online have had trouble with the actuator only or the whole turbo. I have found a company online who can test and repair the actuator arm if needed. I will let you know the result of this. I suspect the actuator is the cause of the problem form what I have found so far. Knowing if it’s ok gives me a datum to work off to investigate further if needed. Hippo's videos - Honorary Tratterer

I had a similar problem with Restricted Performance, and had symptoms/codes confirmed by myself, AA Call Out, and Main Dealer. However LR Extended Warranty insisted that the Dealer carry out a 'Code Clearance' and 'Full Functional Procedure' which cleared the fault.
The fault hasn't appeared since (touch wood).

My original post -

Today about 40 miles from home, whilst accelerating via 'resume cruise' button, out of a round about,

felt sudden deceleration, and speed levelled at 50mph, with no control via accelerator,

yellow and red warning triangles and 'Restricted Performance' appeared on dashboard.

Stopping at nearest layby, switching off/locking made no difference.

Continued carefully to destination, found that a fully locked rest of about 20 minutes (shopping) cleared the fault.

All OK until about 10 miles toward home on, again the same fault on leaving roundabout.

Continued most of the Journey home mostly on dual carriageways/motorways, medium acceleration to 30mph, then exceedingly slow progress up tp about 60mph cruising.
A couple of scary moments when slight changes in gradient took 20mph off speed quite quickly (enough to make us choose to do the last 10 miles down backroads, instead of tackling the long motorway incline)

At home OBD pending readings of P0046, P259E, P2263 and a waff - waff - waff sound if throttle blipped.
I suspect the turbo / turbo actuator.

I have extended warranty so phoned main dealer (for some reason you can now only speak to a call centre - nowhere near the garage) I have to leave car there for 2 - 3 days for an emergency diagnosis and then longer for a repair!
Worst still I cannot have a courtesy car until the fault has been diagnosed and confirmed.

The fault seems to only occur when warm, but I feel that it is unsafe to drive up the motorway to dealer, so tomorrow I will be calling the AA out.

Ironically, at the end of the month I will be changing to the enhanced LR Warranty, at which time they would have handled the whole problem from the beginning. I think it was 'dorset' on this forum who recommended full cover, I should have listened!

It is my first real 'taking car away' fault in my 10 years with Freelander 2s.

Subsequent Post -

The outcome was that the AA confirmed the fault and with a bit of persuasion from me delivered the car to the Main Dealer (I thought it to be unsafe to drive up motorway to the garage)

The garage confirmed the fault codes and asked the LR Warranty people to authorise a change of turbo, however LR Warranty asked for a full functional procedure and check to be carried out.
As I understand it this comprised of resetting everything and exercising/checking functioning of turbo.
Afterwards, and on the subsequent road test, all appeared to work perfectly. The garage rang me with the news, but agreed to carry out an extended road test as I was convinced the fault would reappear.

No fault was found and the car was returned to me with no charge for work at all.

My car has now run for about 2 months with no further problems. I can only suspect that the resetting/exercising of the turbo somehow cleared the sticking of the turbo vanes.

Therefore believe if you are looking for a DIY solution, you start with exercising the vanes manually.


https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic38618.ht...erformance FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Sorry I thought I had already replied with what happened next and the fix.

From the investigation work it looked like the turbo actuator was the cause of the fault. This was removed from the turbo and sent to [URL='http://www.ecutesting.com']www.ecutesting.com[/URL]. They tested it and confirmed it wasn't working correctly. It was fixed and returned to me at a cost of 265.80 sovs. You can buy replacement actuators cheaper than this but you ideally need to calibrate the actuator to the turbo for efficiency. I have a copy of SDD but didn't want to start making changes. Ecu Testing will try to leave the calibration data in the actuator module where possible. they did on mine. Once fitted my FL2 drove ok. No more loss of power as the revs increased. Fault codes cleared and didn't come back. Problem solved.

After the fix I noticed the car generally had more power than before. I didn't notice any drop in power previously. The power disappeared in one go suddenly. So that makes me think the 'play' in the output arm of the actuator was causing a slight drop in power that I hadn't noticed.

I can't provide pic's of what's inside the actuator as they have security sealed it with labels. Break them and the warranty is void. I very very slightly moved the actuator output arm a few mm and you could feel the movement is more precise and solid.

Actuator removed from the turbo.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge