Hi,

Anybody know what the factory fit alternator was? And what's the best aftermarket part in the UK?

Thanks Previous

2008 Freelander 2 i6
1997 Range Rover p38 4.6 V8
2003 Range Rover L322 4.4V8
1989 Range Rover Classic 3.9 V8
2003 Land Rover 90 Td5
2000 Range Rover p38 2.5dHSE
1975 Land Rover 90 SIII 2.25 petrol
1996 Range Rover p38 4.0 V8
1990 Discovery 3.5i V8 (3 door)
1973 Range Rover Classic 3.5 V8 (2 door, ex-Police)

I believe it's a Bosch?! And it's the 180 amps model...now I could be wrong on the OEM manufacturer as I am in North America.

This is what was on my Volvo 3.2 when I purchased it. (it is the 180 Amp version)

When the time comes I will get one of these for the LR2.

Click image to enlarge

Thanks both! Previous

2008 Freelander 2 i6
1997 Range Rover p38 4.6 V8
2003 Range Rover L322 4.4V8
1989 Range Rover Classic 3.9 V8
2003 Land Rover 90 Td5
2000 Range Rover p38 2.5dHSE
1975 Land Rover 90 SIII 2.25 petrol
1996 Range Rover p38 4.0 V8
1990 Discovery 3.5i V8 (3 door)
1973 Range Rover Classic 3.5 V8 (2 door, ex-Police)

Quote:

B. Measure the Voltage at the battery with the engine at Idle

B1. Turn on the seat heaters and check the voltage
B2. Turn on the rear defroster and check the voltage
B3. Turn on the headlights and check the voltage
B4. Turn on the defroster for the front windscreen and check the voltage

If the charging system can keep the voltage at 13.5 Volts or higher with everything listed turned on then the charging system is working very well.

Summary: a good battery and a well functioning charging system should give you excellent results.


The Freelander 2 is an excellent vehicle and I love mine but as a friend of mine likes to say "She will not suffer fools"

Had my original refurbished by local auto electricians a couple of years ago, all bearings, new clutch pulley and new Bosch rectifier fitted. 24hr. turnaround and considerably cheaper. Due to the amount of work required to remove / install the alternator, I would recommend that whatever option you take to resolve use quality parts you won't want to do it twice in quick succession I do recall that when researching a replacement that I saw 2 types were available - 180 amp & I think the other was 230 amp. Were listed as depending on if vehicle had heated windscreen installed. Good advice from Paul, as always, to check with accessories all on just in case the greater output is required. Most replacements seem to exclude the clutch pulley so that will need to be factored in when you are comparing quotes you get.I would also suggest that whilst you're doing this you consider changing the thermostat, as recommended in one of Paul's postings regarding failure of these at around 10 years old.
Good luck, hope you soon get it sorted.

Thanks everybody have sourced a Bosch! Previous

2008 Freelander 2 i6
1997 Range Rover p38 4.6 V8
2003 Range Rover L322 4.4V8
1989 Range Rover Classic 3.9 V8
2003 Land Rover 90 Td5
2000 Range Rover p38 2.5dHSE
1975 Land Rover 90 SIII 2.25 petrol
1996 Range Rover p38 4.0 V8
1990 Discovery 3.5i V8 (3 door)
1973 Range Rover Classic 3.5 V8 (2 door, ex-Police)

Thanks Paul for you test procedure. I put the battery on a 24-hour refurb cycle on my Ring charger.

Two days ago, I started the car. The red battery light came on after 2 minutes driving. After a further 5 minutes i stopped the car and restarted it. Red light did not come on and has stayed off.

Yesterday I started the car and went through your batter input test:

Under idle with no ancillaries on: 14.2 volts

Turned on heated seats and heating: 14.1 volts

Added heated screens and headlamps: 14 volts

Added full beam, front and rear fogs and everything else: 13.6 volts

So what's going on? The alternator seems to be healthy enough. Is it something to do with clutch system?

The ancillary belt tension? (The belt was changed last year at 105k.) Previous

2008 Freelander 2 i6
1997 Range Rover p38 4.6 V8
2003 Range Rover L322 4.4V8
1989 Range Rover Classic 3.9 V8
2003 Land Rover 90 Td5
2000 Range Rover p38 2.5dHSE
1975 Land Rover 90 SIII 2.25 petrol
1996 Range Rover p38 4.0 V8
1990 Discovery 3.5i V8 (3 door)
1973 Range Rover Classic 3.5 V8 (2 door, ex-Police)

The clutch pulley had likely seized and has now freed itself for the time being?

The Alternator can fail to charge based on a few different causes

1. Alternator mechanically or electrically wears out - The Brushes would be the most likely failure mode but there are others

2. The signal wire from the ECU is broken or making an intermittent contact (search for Blue Wire on FREEL2)

3. The clutch pully has seized and it has started to loosen the drive pulley bolt


I suspect that you have failure mode #3 but you should check the Blue Wire Just in case. And if the Brush was stuck but it freed it self then you could have Mode #1 (I think this is unlikely)

When you remove the Alternator failure mode #3 will be obvious. The drive pulley will spin freely.


A reasonable test is to see if the coupling is spinning when the Alternator is not charging the battery.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/freelander-2-a/...owner.html



Good Luck

Paul

Any update????

Did you find the root cause of your intermittent charging?

Apologies for non-comms. Busy week. Everything settled down - no battery lights. I fitted a new battery as the incumbent was over 3 years old and had taken a battering during the cold (for the UK) winter.

I felt so confident, I returned the Bosch alternator I'd bought unopened in its box last week.

Nothing to report until last Thursday 16th March, after leaving car in a city street at night for 4 hours. The light came on after 5 minutes driving. Stoping and restarting the car kept the the light off for 10 minutes then it came on again.

I drove 25 miles home, with full headlights on, down fast highways with no problems and the light hasn't come on since.

But I will look out more the blue wire and coupling movement.

Thank you for your info! Previous

2008 Freelander 2 i6
1997 Range Rover p38 4.6 V8
2003 Range Rover L322 4.4V8
1989 Range Rover Classic 3.9 V8
2003 Land Rover 90 Td5
2000 Range Rover p38 2.5dHSE
1975 Land Rover 90 SIII 2.25 petrol
1996 Range Rover p38 4.0 V8
1990 Discovery 3.5i V8 (3 door)
1973 Range Rover Classic 3.5 V8 (2 door, ex-Police)

I would confirm that the light is correct by making an independent measurement


When the light comes on the Voltage should go from 13.6 Volts to 12.6 Volts

If it doesn't then you don't have a alternator problem you have a problem with the light in the dashboard.

If you have already confirmed this then you can ignore the recommendation

I have one of these and it is what I would use




God luck

Paul

I have 14.4 volts at the battery after starting the car. Charging at about 50 amps according to my clampmeter.

I have actually set my DC-DC chargers (2 in parallel) a bit lower for auxiliary batteries as I great voltage throughout the car.



Only yesterday I jump started another car in our street. Their starter battery was at 10.5 volts even after been charged from another car & only charging at 6 amps at 13.5 volts from the other car. A complete basket case as far as both cars were concerned.

No issues jump starting from my car.

But the their battery has had it for a V6 diesel. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

The Voltage should be 14.4 under the following conditions

* Ambient temperature is about 21C

* The ECU is programmed for a wet cell

* The Alternator is charging the battery at the faster rate (Accept)


When the State of Charge of the Battery gets high enough the Alternator will switch from the Fast Charge (Accept) to the slow charge (Float).

And when this happens the Voltage will go to 13.5 Volts

Click image to enlarge