guess what i have spent two and a half hours undoing with the wrong sockets ( worn splined instead of torx )
and a hacksaw blade what size torx socket should the rear prop bolts be so i can order 1

cheers  2009 FL2 S now gone
2011 FL2 HSE AUTO
2012 FL2 XS AUTO
2000 Kawasaki er 5

Someone may be along who can give a more precise technical answer but it's an E10 Torx socket and it should be a 3/8" to allow it to fit in the gap between the bolt head and the prop.
I already had an E10 socket (Halfords) but it didn't appear to fit too well given the chamfer on the bolt head holding it off from being fully seated, so I ordered one of these to make sure:
"Beta Tools 910FTX 3/8" Square Drive Torx® Socket E10 | 009100410", which having a deep chamfer, I found to be a good fit. As you know, given the the location of the bolts, it is not something that you want to go awry.

I had to do this job last November. I got a set on amazon for £14.99 " LEXIVON E-TORX Socket Set, Chrome Vanadium Alloy Steel | 13-Piece Female Star Socket E4 - E20 Set | Enhanced Storage Case (LX-147) ". Worked perfect for the job with adaptors for 1/4" or 3/8" use. Originally i tried to order only the size E10, but the set was the easiest option.

cheers for that guys  2009 FL2 S now gone
2011 FL2 HSE AUTO
2012 FL2 XS AUTO
2000 Kawasaki er 5

Telco wrote:

Someone may be along who can give a more precise technical answer but it's an E10 Torx socket and it should be a 3/8" to allow it to fit in the gap between the bolt head and the prop.
I already had an E10 socket (Halfords) but it didn't appear to fit too well given the chamfer on the bolt head holding it off from being fully seated, so I ordered one of these to make sure:
"Beta Tools 910FTX 3/8" Square Drive Torx® Socket E10 | 009100410", which having a deep chamfer, I found to be a good fit. As you know, given the the location of the bolts, it is not something that you want to go awry.

cheers for the details info - just ordered one of these

Pretty sure it's an E11. Same size as Disco 3 etc

That, or, my Halfords E10 doesn't fit

The bolts are use once anyway, so cutting them off is no problem, although they're about £6 each to replace. I keep a spare set, just in case. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Not sure why they are use once?, mine have been out and reused twice with no ill effects. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

They are torque to yeald patch bolts, which are always use once according to the manufacturers.
However in this instance, they aren't done up tight enough to actually stretch the bolt to yeald, and the patch can be reapplied with liquid thread lock, so they should be ok to reuse.
However being old school, so always replace bolts as specified by the manufacturer. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Can certainly se the requirements for replacement of stretch bolts in a cylinder head but not in this application. And £36 to replace them  Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Surely it must be because of the need for new Loctite on the threads as the torque is only 40nm

Why clean out threads and re-apply thread locker when you can charge for bolts with that already done - time is money.

I'm old school too - waste not, want not  Jules