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Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Heater blower stuck on full power when ignition off
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VVS210



Member Since: 08 Jan 2018
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 147

United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Indus Silver
Heater blower stuck on full power when ignition off

Morning all,

Got a problem with the FL2...

Put the blower on programme yesterday morning to defrost SWMBO's car then off she went to work.

When she left work she could get the car to open, no flashing indicators, nothing, battery dead as a dead thing!

Long & short of it, blower motor had been running at full chat all day till the battery drained.

Nice man from the AA came out & started it then plugged in diagnostics which read this code, amongst others caused by low voltage:

"B10B9 - Blower control short to B+"

Once car was started the blower came on at full chat again & the HVAC control dial had no effect on it.

Indications are a relay stuck closed and not unlatching when ignition supply is turned off.

Spent a bit of time online waiting for the AA & again when we got home & found references mainly to the resistor that is located in the duct behind the HVAC unit but also found one reference to a "yellow relay" behind the console but it wasn't clear if this was FL2 or FL1?

Has anyone had the same problem & can they confirm what the fault is please? - is it the resistor or is there another relay that I need to find (part number if there is?).

TIA

Post #428874 18th Jan 2023 7:49 am
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Lightwater



Member Since: 21 Aug 2014
Location: Sydney Northern Beaches
Posts: 4906

Ukraine 2013 Freelander 2 2.0T SE Auto Fuji White

I was looking for an earth point. Found one, to the right hand side of the glovebox (remove glovebox) but on the central console is a wire earthed to some aluminium or zinc casting (from memory. I didn't take photos as it seemed so trivial at the time). I unscrewed the wire so I could add another one. When I unscrewed it the fan stayed on, as soon as I connected the wire the fan turned off.

Could be this earth has come lose or somewhere alone the wire has broken & the fan stayed on.

That would be a basic starting point. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

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Post #428876 18th Jan 2023 8:39 am
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jules



Member Since: 13 Dec 2007
Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire
Posts: 5021

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Firenze Red

The free JLR workshop manual has loads of wiring diagrams
start at page 3124

Click image to enlarge


But they don't cover beyond MY2012, so there may be changes Jules

Post #428880 18th Jan 2023 9:26 am
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VVS210



Member Since: 08 Jan 2018
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 147

United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Indus Silver

We're all sorted now after fitting a secondhand heater blower resistor but for next time, and to help anyone else who may have the same problem, the LR part number is LR002685

https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/l...motor.html

However, the part is common to Land Rover, Volvo and Ford - see below for corresponding part numbers.

Click image to enlarge


Manufacturers part number is.



As an additional tip, if you do have the same problem then the fan can be stopped by pulling the top right hand fuse in the engine bay fuse box (when looking from the passenger side wing).

Hope this helps somebody someday.

Post #429378 29th Jan 2023 10:23 am
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VVS210



Member Since: 08 Jan 2018
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 147

United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Indus Silver

Also to aid those who need to do this repair, a quick 'how to'...

The resistor is located in the air duct to the fan motor so it is at the top & behind the centre console on the passenger side.

To get to it first remove the plastic 'kick panel' between the footwell carpet & glovebox.

Next remove the glovebox lid by opening & then pushing he tab on each side inwards - there isn't a damper attached which you will need to remove if not already broken (like mine).

The resistor is not readily visible but if you use a small torch from the glovebox area you can find a passage to shine the light through & then see it.

To remove the resistor you first need to turn it counter clockwise by a small amount, this is not easy as there is a detent to lock it in place & the cables/plug need to be disconnected first - there is a clip at each end of the plug that needs to be held in at the same time to remove the plug.

Once the cable is disconnected move the plug out of the way.

I tried to turn the resistor by hand but had no success so resorted to a small (6") pair of pliers & by feeling with my left hand (arm threaded through the opening for the glovebox & over the fusebox) located the jaws of the pliers then used right hand to grip & twist. There isn't much movement & it will be obvious once the unit has become unlocked.

Once removed you will see how the unit is located & the orientation needed to fit the replacement.

Although I used a small pair of pliers for the removal I could not get the purchase needed to relock the resistor with them when fitting the replacement so used a small pair of slip jaw (water pump type) pliers to change the angle & get that little bit of leverage to lock the detent back in.

Once in place the plug can be refitted, I found this went in easily but getting it to lock was harder than it should be & I ended up having to pinch in the clips at each end & then push to get it in.

After testing & confirming it's working replace the glovebox & kick panel.

There is no need to remove the panel on the bottom of the console itself, however, if you decide you want to don't think it's simply held in with clips & will pull off - it won't there's a bolt there & if you pull hard you'll break the trim... Big Cry

Post #429386 29th Jan 2023 11:35 am
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Dave47



Member Since: 31 Aug 2014
Location: Margate Kent
Posts: 1333

United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Auto Izmir Blue

Nice follow up on this issue VVS210, Glad it's all sorted out. Thumbs Up DAVE.

Post #429389 29th Jan 2023 12:08 pm
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IanMetro



Member Since: 11 Sep 2017
Location: Somerset BS21
Posts: 3133

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 Metropolis LE Auto Fuji White

VVS210 wrote:
We're all sorted now after fitting a secondhand heater blower resistor but for next time, and to help anyone else who may have the same problem, the LR part number is LR002685

https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/l...motor.html

However, the part is common to Land Rover, Volvo and Ford - see below for corresponding part numbers.

Click image to enlarge


Manufacturers part number is.



As an additional tip, if you do have the same problem then the fan can be stopped by pulling the top right hand fuse in the engine bay fuse box (when looking from the passenger side wing).

Hope this helps somebody someday.


Thanks for your post that finishes off the thread.

It is always of great help to us all when the OP tells us what happened and how the problem was solved.

Too many post questions, disappear, and leave us in the dark about the outcome.

Thanks Again. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Post #429391 29th Jan 2023 12:14 pm
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