Having all sort of fun and games getting lower arms on my FL2. Is there anywhere I could hire beg and so on a G-Clamp special tool ?

Ive not done this job on a FL2.

LR manual makes use of special tools inc the special G clamp and a half shaft remover.

But my Haynes manual makes it look quite simple unlike the LR manual - remove driveshaft/hub bolt and press half shaft back through the the hub a little way (doesnt say how far).Undo front and rear lower bolts bolts and pull lower arm from subframe. Split lower arm ball joint from hub carrier with a ball joint joint splitter. Thats it - no special tools needed. Is the Haynes wrong ? I dunno.


Could you not use spring compressors on the coil spring ? Jules

Hi Jules thanks for the reply. The thing is with the Haynes way you end up fighting the tension of the spring to get it all back in. It seams to me the experience I have had working on the front end of a FL2 that designed that way. A 6’ bar and a lot have bad language has been my route in the past. But this does no good for the bushes in the arm I feel, and was looking to see if there was a less aggressive way to do it and keep the neighbour happy. Spring compressors was going to be my great answer but the smallest set I have wont depress the spring enough until they hit the body of the Land Rover. I have got a front end rebuild to do on a commercial I got and the hardest part is getting the arm back in to the frame. Thanks for putting me in the driceton of Haynes I will have a read never know where it might lead

Best of luck. Let us know how you get on. Jules

This picture shows the landrover tool and how it's used.




Without compressing the suspension spring in situ, then the lower control arm has to be forced down so that the ball joint thread can be withdrawn and clear the hub assembly. I found using a 600mm length of 25x25mm angle iron as a lever it's relatively easy, but it does put abnormal strain on the lower control arm bushes.

I've never needed anything like the LR tools to fit lower arms, in fact they're little different to any other vehicles I've done.
You just need to apply the correct amount of leverage on the right area of the arms for them to come out or be refitted. No need to compress the springs, as the springs aren't what limits the movement.
Make sure the ARB is detached at both ends and lifted clear, and pop the TRE from the hub to free things up some more.
Once the ball joint nut is removed, the ball joint is simply levered from the hub and the arm wiggled out. The replacement is fitted in the reverse of removal, but often a dead blow hammer will help get everything back in position. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

TRE ? Jules

Tie Rod End..

I think the purpose of the G-clamp is to compress the strut (not just the spring). This does mean there is more room to and withdraw the ball joint thread without having to strongly force down the lower control arm down to overcome the rubber bush resistance.

However, I agree it is possible to disconnect the LCA without the G-clamp.

MotionInc wrote:

Tie Rod End..

ofcourse doh !  Jules

Bumpf wrote:

This picture shows the landrover tool and how it's used.




Without compressing the suspension spring in situ, then the lower control arm has to be forced down so that the ball joint thread can be withdrawn and clear the hub assembly. I found using a 600mm length of 25x25mm angle iron as a lever it's relatively easy, but it does put abnormal strain on the lower control arm bushes.