Hey are there any known issues where you can be driving along and all of a sudden there is a very brief cut in Power? Started happening last night about 2 hrs from home. Was in the city and driving around side streets and it cut 4 times. However once I hit the motorway and used cruise control it drove faultlessly until I got off the motorway then using the accelerator pedal it happened again and again this morning. Wondering if this is a known fault with the throttle electrics? Maybe the potentiometer? Any ideas? Haven’t had it to get any fault codes read yet, nothing showing on the dash either. It has had the intermittent fuel tank sender unit problem since Jan but we manage to get by with that (couple of taps to the fuel tank sorts it). Think this is a new issue. It’s a 2007 FL2 on 264000kms TD4 2.2.

Crankshaft position sensor.
Search for it and you will find many topics....

If your car thinks that the fuel tank is nearly empty it will go into 'limp home' mode to try to save the fuel pump from damage.

I had it on my last car before I had the fuel gauge wiring sorted out. If the connection is intermittent then the power reduces then goes back to normal as the fuel gauge wanders around. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

alex_pescaru wrote:

Crankshaft position sensor.
Search for it and you will find many topics....

IanMetro wrote:

If your car thinks that the fuel tank is nearly empty it will go into 'limp home' mode to try to save the fuel pump from damage.

I had it on my last car before I had the fuel gauge wiring sorted out. If the connection is intermittent then the power reduces then goes back to normal as the fuel gauge wanders around.

As alex has already said, almost 100% CPS. A cheap and easy fix as well. (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

And get it fixed now with a genuine LR part, as you are otherwise likely to find your engine cutting out completely at a very inconvenient moment! Mine is the voice of experience - my garage used a cheap replacement (their idea, not mine) which failed on the M20. Frightened the begesus out of me 😳

Will do, I’m assuming it’s a ford part like everything else on the FL2. If I can find the part number I’ll get my buddy in a ford dealership to order it. Probably half the landrover dealer price. Anyone have that part number handy?

The followings were verified by various people from the Russian forum and work OK.

PEUGEOT 9637466980 (what you have now, from factory)
FACET 90458
ERA 550014
FORD 1690470
SWAG 62931198

Thanks Alex 👍

Hi

There are two types of CPS (crankshaft position sensor) dependent on vin no early one LR000681 later one LR056028 they vary in price genuine LR about £72 non genuine from £17. Easy job to change jack up and place on axle stands, remove off side front wheel, either remove or bend to one side the side engine shield which held one with two 10mm nuts and one screw through front Number, Then disconnect wiring to CPS press in at the rear and pull off next remove CPS 1, 8mm bolt then just take it out. To refit reverse the process.

Handy to know cheers! It’s been fine except when it’s raining like today. Know it’s dead in the water so to speak when it fails altogether so must change it real soon.

I think mine is failing. Have ordered one today. Just to add to the thread LR000681 is suitable for vehicles up to VIN AH999999.
Hope this helps someone else.
cheers
Richard

And another thread resurrection - mine went on Friday, all cranking, no starting and had codes P0335 / P0336.

Part arrived from Advanced Factors on Monday, fitted this morning (it's stopped raining!!!) and cleared codes. Started straight away.

And no way am I paying over £100 for a "genuine" part. JLR don't make parts, they buy them, and the will switch manufacturer at the drop of a hat if the bean counters think it makes sense.

The one from Advanced is made by Xevo and has a 2 year warranty for £20. At the price paid I will keep a spare in the glovebox.

You can buy a brand new genuine (there's that word again!!) Peugeot/Citroen part ref 1920.EH for around £30 if OEM governance is important. Current driveway contents:
2021 V60 Cross Country B5
2009 FL2 dog bus and shooting wagon

On Order: 2023 Fisker Ocean Ultra - deposit paid.

You are quite correct, LR don't make the sensor febi Bilstein do, LR don't make the plug either, Delphi made that.
I changed both sensor and plug to help eliminate being stranded at the side of the road again.
 Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.