Hi all, I'm new to the forum, so appreciate any help in advance!

I have a 2012 FL2 with 80k miles (of which Ive owned for the last three years).

Runs lovely but has an issue with starting first thing in the morning. This is worse when its cold, but happens in all weather really - only affects the first start of the day, when left overnight. Any other time it starts fine. It either cranks for 7-8 seconds, then starts. Or cranks, splutters, coughs and starts with a puff of white smoke out the exhaust - doesn't sound healthy at all.

It has been to a number of garages, who are all stumped. Shows no error codes (even on land rover diagnostic systems). Garages are replacing things by process of elimination, but nothing has made the slightest difference.

The following has been done in the last 12 months - new battery, new fuel filter, 4 new fuel injectors, 4 new glow plugs, new glow plug control module, new cambelt, extra earth from battery to gearbox & another to starter motor, non return valve added to fuel line.

Hopefully someone has a similar experience and can shed some light. Spent lots of money on fixes, but nothing

Many thanks

Was the fuel filter a genuine JLR one? as non genuine ones do not have all the internal parts, the only other thing not replaced was your starter motor? how many miles has it done? 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Mahatma Gandhi said if there is an Idiot in power those who elected him are well represented. The Enemy is our own corrupt Government.

Hi Rommel, thanks for the reply
It was a genuine filter fitted, so should be ok.
Starter has been tested and confirmed is working as normal. Its done 80k miles, but has had the issue since Ive owned it (from 45k miles)
I don't mind the long crank so much, but when it coughs and splutters, it sounds like it wont start. Then masses of smoke out the back.
Feels like a fuel/air issue, but I'm not sure...
When its driving, it shows a 2:1 ratio of air:fuel... Drives ok, just the starting when cold.

Could it be an air leak getting in the fuel system in some how?

With the white smoke, then you've got unburnt fuel , much like when a glow plug fails so that diesel in that cylinder doesn't vaporise well and mis fires. But, given your swap of the bits then look at restricted airflow.

I wonder whether the throttle body is mis behaving? Does it do the normal whine a clicking after shutdown. (this is the eco cycling the butterfly valve mechanism , presumably as part of its calibration routine and to leave the valve (I assume) in the open position ready for the next start cycle)

Have you tried cleaning the MAF and MAP sensors? 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Mahatma Gandhi said if there is an Idiot in power those who elected him are well represented. The Enemy is our own corrupt Government.

Not sure why you put the non return valve in the fuel line.

Have you read the Repair Manual (on this forum at https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic10621.html)
The Fuel System description starts at page 992.

You will see that the start sequence (during warm up) over-rides some of fuel controls (examples - Volume Control Valve (VCV) - Pressure Control Valve (PCV) ).
Is this a clue to what is not working correctly and giving you misfuelling during warm up period.

I would have thought that some OBD Error codes should be in the system. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Thanks for the messages everyone.

The non return valve was added, as it was believed that either air could be getting in the system, or fuel could be draining back to the tank overnight.

The car does the normal whine and clicking after shutdown, so not sure about the throttle body.

MAP and MAF sensors have also been cleaned with the appropriate cleaner.

Its been on a diagnostic check and land rover and a couple other garages, and no codes are registered

Could it be coolant temp sensor telling the ECU engine is warm when its not?? just a thought. 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Mahatma Gandhi said if there is an Idiot in power those who elected him are well represented. The Enemy is our own corrupt Government.

Yes thats a good shout. Something I did think of changing. When driving the OBD shows the coolant at 80degrees. The indicator on the dash shows the temp as normal. Often when that fails it can fluctuate somewhat, but could be worth a change

Here is a link to a video of how it starts.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/WVAxL_JDXYg

I just want to throw the camshaft sensor into the mix? It's something that only gets used upon startup and can start to go faulty without showing error codes.  https://www.youtube.com/@scottandalana4x4

HScarrott93 wrote:

Hi Rommel, thanks for the reply
It was a genuine filter fitted, so should be ok.
Starter has been tested and confirmed is working as normal. Its done 80k miles, but has had the issue since Ive owned it (from 45k miles)
I don't mind the long crank so much, but when it coughs and splutters, it sounds like it wont start. Then masses of smoke out the back.
Feels like a fuel/air issue, but I'm not sure...
When its driving, it shows a 2:1 ratio of air:fuel... Drives ok, just the starting when cold.

Thanks Nodge

It did have two injectors leaking down, so then I had all four replaced with brand new bosch injectors (almost £1000). When the new ones were fitted, they were initially coded to the ECU in reverse by the garage, who have since corrected this. Starts slightly worse since they were replaced though. And there is a humming noise when driving (particularly when the engine is cold) that wasn't there before they were replaced.

Garage tested rail pressure this morning on start up and all looked ok apparently but still sounded horrific, and filled their workshop with smoke!

Dean1234 wrote:

I just want to throw the camshaft sensor into the mix? It's something that only gets used upon startup and can start to go faulty without showing error codes.

I'll second this My Son's 07 XS went into 3 different main dealers with poor starting issues (all done under approved used warranty) It had new battery, glow plugs, turbo, inlet manifold (broken flaps), 1 injector and leak off pipe. It was still the same, some days starting on the button and then a pig to start on other days. It was eventually diagnosed by Land Rover assist who came out to it and the guy found 225 DTC counts for cam sensor. Been fine since.

DTC was PO341 2007 TD4 XS The work horse that earns its up keep
2013 SD4 HSE The posh one for towing the caravan
1973 Triumph Stag I bought in 2009 and restored.