Hi all, first post!

I've been doing a major service jamboree on my FL2 as it's just over the 100K mark.

I did all the usual fluids and filters, haldex service and cambelt. Before I did the cambelt, I had started it because I had changed the fuel filter and primed the system again and it was running perfectly. I disconnected the battery before getting on with removing the starter to get access to the timing hole in the flywheel.

I set the timing at TDC using the pins in the flywheel and camshaft pulley and these remained in place until the new belt was on and tensioned. I then removed the pins and turned the engine over by hand a couple of times, re-checked the tension on the belt and put the pins back in to confirm that the timing was correctly set.

After everything was back together, I reconnected the battery and went to start it but it would only turn over maybe a half a turn and then stop with lots of relay clicking. It sounded like the battery was flat but it was ok before and was reading over 13V and wasn't having difficulty turning the engine over until it stopped.

I think it may be some sort of immobiliser issue as I've had this with a few older Rovers / MG ZR's etc in the past and there was usually some sort of 'proceedure' which involved locking and unlocking a specific number of times with the key to get past it.

Is there a specific reset proceedure with an FL2 after the battery has been disconnected?

The battery can have a decent voltage but not a lot on AH left in it if it's old. How old is the battery?

Have you tried jump starting it. The procedure is in the Freelander Owners Handbook page 169 Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

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Hi, Thanks for the reply. Yes, jumped it with a fresh battery but results are the same.
Just wanting to eliminate as many things as possible before I start taking it apart again looking for something else.

Realised after looking at the manual that what you pointed me to is for jump starting which I've already done.

Anything on an immobiliser reset is what I'm looking for please.

Thanks!

Are the battery to starter cable connections bright and shiny ? If they are corroded then the starter cant get enough current because the battery is only 12v and resistance can markedly reduce the current.

I had a problem with intermittent starting on my Series 3 . All circuits tested as correct but was solved after I cleaned the copper terminals with wet n dry.

check the engine to chassis earths as well Jules

Last edited by jules on 4th Nov 2022 12:28 pm. Edited 1 time in total

The longest I have had the battery disconnected is half a day & the clock & date was the only thing that had to be reset.

If you have tried jump starting with a spare battery then it is most likely something else.

Are all plugs properly connected. Disconnect & reconnect.

Check fuses. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

If its making attempt to turn over then its not an immobiliser issue. Clicky relays during the start attempts normally point to a flat battery or bad earth problem. When you tried jump starting did you put the black jumper cable directly onto a good earth point on the engine? A faulty starter is another possibility as the starter solenoid is a known problem with higher mileage Freelanders. Repair kits are available on Ebay etc if required. Good luck!

So currently it's a crank no start situation is that correct

Yep, went out and whipped the starter out again to put in the flywheel pin and took the crank pulley off to check that the reluctor wheel is seated correctly etc and that the crank sensor is plugged in and ok. All good and still the same symptoms. Now thinking that it is battery / connection related as when it appears to get to a compression stroke, that's when it has a fit and stops.

The earth lead from the battery down to the starter bolt is definitely re-connected correctly so it must be somewhere up at the battery terminals or the positive at the starter perhaps. Will finish my coffee and go forth...

Uploaded a video to youtube to illustrate the issue.

So it's a no crank situation

It was a crank until compression and then the amperage draw was too much.
Turns out it was a silly mistake on my part, I had removed the starter/engine and body earths off the main battery terminal as they are all on one 13mm nut which is easily accessible. The body earth wire had dropped behind the battery tray so when I put it back on, it was only the starter/engine earth that was connected, enough to transmit enough amperage to crank until it hits the compression and then it clicked out. Put it on and it fired right up.

I was rushing too much as I've an MOT later on this evening and didn't see the obvious.

Thanks for all the replies!

Good stuff and thanks for the update!

As it's flashing up all sorts of errors after the failed start, it would point to a low battery voltage. So either the battery has died, or there's something drawing more current than the battery can supply (piston/valve interference), or the current from the battery isn't getting to the vehicle, which could be a high resistance battery lead.

Edit, ignore my post, glad it's sorted. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
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2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
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1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Good stuff thanks for getting back with the solution

Happy your sorted and thank you for the update,
one of those mistakes we are all capable of.  DAVE.

Its amazing how a bad earth can screw things up Jules