So I just did an overhaul of the cooling system and when I went to go fill up/bleed coolant the damn thing was dripping from the replacement Y/split coolant hose that goes from the bottom to the water pump/lower radiator hose (LR005564). The leak is coming from the twist connector that goes to the metal hose. I popped off the intake tube and I must have reinstalled this 10 times at this point and there still is a slight drip from that location. Using OEM parts and I do feel the twist lock locking in place.

Looking for the right way to approach this. i have been turning the hose 90 degrees and pushing it on as far as I can get it with quite a bit of force.

OEM part and it looks good/matches up with the old so i'm hard pressed to fault the part.

A few thoughts..

Do I need to prep the metal hose surface?

Should I be heating up those plastic twist end to see if I can get it any further? Seems counterintuitive given I have a drip, but if I have a leak because I'm not seating the damn thing properly...

Is this normal and I'm worrying about nothing? If the drip is normal until the car has gone through a heat cycle for the metal to expand and create a better seal I guess I could live with that explanation, but it would be foreign to me in my experience.

@p_gill i believe you had a writeup mentioning this hose so I'd appreciate your 2 cents on this if you see it.

thanks for the help in advance https://www.youtube.com/c/HeelTow

I’m no expert but I don’t think some librations before connecting it would hurt.

There is an O-ring inside of the hose by the grey clip, make sure that it isn't broken or twisted and lubricating with some coolant would be fine.

The Grey part can be rotated between locked and un locked.




The locked position can be seen here (Blue/White arrow

Click image to enlarge

thanks for the quick response paul.. not how i usually think of these twist lock fittings but I have not tried installing it while already in the locked position. I'll give that a try. Only other think I can think of is needing to clean the metal surface better.

will report back with my success/failure lol https://www.youtube.com/c/HeelTow

For what it's worth, I had trouble getting the grey part to engage fully. I could've done with an extra pair of hands . I needed to push the connector on to the metal pipe and hold it there with enough force while the grey clip was turned. It seemed to engage many times but would just pull off again. After much swearing and head scratching, I just about managed to use enough of a pushing force and was just able to turn the clip until it seemed to just work. Driven it for 300 miles without even a spot of coolant loss.
The whole job, disassembling the air con compressor and it's brackets and the aux belt tensioner pully etc were a real pain in the ass. But, it was getting the hose on the bottom at the radiator that proved the most difficult as even though I have boney girl arms, I couldn't get my hands in the gap enough to get a good grip. Although, after much swearing (again) and bruises, it eventually went on.

i'd have to agree with you that this whole job was pretty tedious for a damn volvo setup! definitely messed up my wrist a bit.
but now that i've done it.. most of it seems like a cake walk and I could probably do all the work in a half day (i take a lot of breaks ). it took me a few nights to get the car apart, but honestly the only trouble I had was getting the hose clamp off the bottom of the intake tube. figuring that one is what took most of my time. Clearance is and apparently I searched for every type of vice like tool except "hose clamp pliers" leaving me to finesse a pair of long double compound pliers in there. If anyone stumbles upon this.. hose clamp pliers... https://www.youtube.com/c/HeelTow

I gave up on the Land Rover spring loaded clamp and I switched to the Volvo clamp (a Jubilee style if that is meaningful to you).

988034

Take care

Paul

@p_gill i don't know if it was installing it in the locked position or the few minutes of cleaning i put into it, but i was able to get the connection to stop leaking so thanks for the advice there. I suppose what you were getting at is using tha twist lock might snag on the o-ring on the metal cut out if you lock it after the fact? i didn't see any evidence of it on my o-ring and it felt just as seated as before.. but i'll accept your voodoo magic.

on the jubilee type clamp.. thats exactly what I did. I didn't know the volvo platform had a corresponding part number for it or I would have bought that. I just bought a $2 clamp from home depot which seems to be working well. thanks again for your 2 cents on installation. Probably wouldn't have thought to install it that way given how particular removal is. https://www.youtube.com/c/HeelTow

Success!!!


In the words of our friends in the UK.........A good job well done


The LR2 can be a bit demanding and it won't suffer fools but if you are proactive with the maintenance it is a very reliable vehicle.


Take care

Paul

PS I see you joined FREEL2 about 3 weeks ago and if you already determined that I would be a good person to reach out to for help with the 3.2 then you did your homework searching the forum.

Quote:

PS I see you joined FREEL2 about 3 weeks ago and if you already determined that I would be a good person to reach out to for help with the 3.2 then you did your homework searching the forum.

@p_gill

Simply a valuable resource with a rare affinity for teaching, patience & sticktoittive-ness.

I'd even add legendary now but......too much???

haha yes it didn't take me long to figure out you were a good (and somehow still active) resource for the 3.2. I'm used to the BMW world where while everything is obnoxiously tedious.. everything is laid out for you. Fortunately the Volvo cross platform keeps it manageable! If they had used some entry level LR motor I'm sure there would be next to no support! https://www.youtube.com/c/HeelTow