As someone that went through months of Haldex hell with skipping wheels, juddering and banging transmission following getting my rear diff rebuilt and as part of that process having the Haldex serviced (it was fine before the diff rebuild) I have learnt a vast amount about the Haldex, how it works, what causes them to go wrong and how to fix them.

The good news is that the Haldex is a tough unit and in most cases when they do go wrong they can be repaired - provided you know what you are doing. Sadly very few really understand them and often attempts to repair them make the issues worse because even the slightest incorrect item will cause the internal pressures to be incorrect and stop it from functioning correctly, whether that is a bad filter, pump or fluid or perhaps even a small oil leak between the diff and haldex.

But the real experts are haldexrepairs.co.uk and they have produced a very informative video about the Freelanders Haldex 4 unit which tends to be the more troublesome unit and was fitted from 2009 onwards. The video linked at the bottom is well worth a watch by anyone thinking of servicing the Haldex or with an issue.

Some important things to consider are:

The Haldex should be periodically serviced to flush out the crud from the clutch packs. Keep the fluids clean and you are less likely to have issues further down the road. Volvo recommend 30,000 miles I believe.

You can't fully drain a Haldex while it is still in the car. The fluid in the galleries between the pump and actuator can't drain because there are one way valves. And a majour cause of Haldex issues is crud inside the accumulator, this will not drain simply by removing the pump. You need to remove the Haldex from the car to fully drain it and ideally you need to blow through the galleries with an air line or flush them through with brake cleaner. Removing the haldex is not difficult, split the prop from the haldex (6 torx bolts) unplug the ECU and then there are 4 bolts securing the haldex to the diff. It slides out of the diff and it isn't heavy.

There are issues with most of the cheaper Haldex filters on the market. The filter has a one way valve that has to seal against very high pressure fluid. Mould lines in the plastic of the majority of the cheaper filters prevents the valve from sealing fully, so the pressure drops. This can lead to reduced hydralic pressure, excess wear on the pump as it runs more to try to maintain the pressure, plus the potential for issues with the clutches not locking correctly, banging and jolts through the transmission as you pass through 30 mph or when manouvering at low speeds and higher wear to the Haldex clutch packs. Use only Borg Warner filters or filters from haldexrepairs.co.uk

It appears that Land Rovers Haldex fluid isn't very good. It has been noted that after servicing using Land Rovers Haldex fluid there is a higher than expect occurance of issues with scrabbling wheels etc. Draining, flushing and swapping to Borg Warner, Febi Bilstien or Volvo fluid will typicall return these "serviced" Haldex's to normal working order.

The control valve for the Haldex is a common cause of issues. These can be replaced cheaply.

There is an issue caused by a build up of crud in the accumulator piston that leads to excess hydralic pressure. Symptons include scrabbling wheels when manouvering. This issue has even been noted on the very expensive replacement units that have come direct from Land Rover. While they can't repair or clean out the accumulator due to the way it's built they do have a fix for the isssue that involves a modification to the ECU to make the system run at a slightly lower presuure.

The ECU's can leak and suffer from water damage. This will normally bring up a the reduced traction warning and a fault code. Sometimes the fault code will suggest a pump issue when in fact it is water damage to the ECU. They are able to supply exchange ECU's to replace damaged ones (including "anti scrabble" modified ECU's.

The brushes in the pump wear out - again this will normally bring up a reduced traction warning and a fault code. The pump can be replaced easily enough.

They can now also supply replacement clutch plates and clutch packs, something that previously has been impossible to get.

See this video to learn much more:

Matt (who made the video) really understands it all

Last edited by Mowog on 29th Dec 2023 9:46 am. Edited 1 time in total

Mowog - are you saying they do remove and replace spring?
If so, what about official LR reconditioned ones.

Ingenious-al - excellent video, thank you. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Ingenious-al wrote:

Removing the haldex is not difficult, split the prop from the haldex (6 torx bolts) unplug the ECU and then there are 4 bolts securing the haldex to the diff. It slides out of the diff and it isn't heavy.

IanMetro wrote:

Mowog - are you saying they do remove and replace spring?
If so, what about official LR reconditioned ones.

Ingenious-al - excellent video, thank you.

I really like these sorts of videos which are plain talking and easy to follow thank you for posting

Great post, thanks. Keen to service my Haldex soon. MY11 SD4 SE Auto

I have some of Land Rovers own Haldex fluid which also have Borg Warner branding on them...

Click image to enlarge

I have some of Land Rovers own Haldex fluid which also have Borg Warner branding on them...

Click image to enlarge

My recent FL2 is going back to the dealer on Monday 9/10/23 to have the Haldex looked at for a second time, it was looked at just before it was delivered on the 15/09/23.

The grabbing even though it was very slight was supposed to have been dealt with, upon me driving it early this week for the first time since delivery, i noted that the grabbing was still there, i have passed on the above information so lets see how they deal with it this time, if no joy i will get it done myself and send them the bill.

It will most likely end up at Bell engineering below.

https://www.bellengineering.co.uk/freelander-2-products-post-2008

I am just reporting back on the outcome of the FL2 going back to the dealer, it was taken back to them on the 9/10/23, they had it for 5 days, in that time they say that the filter was again changed, the Haldex flushed out at least 3 times while still on the car ? does not make sense to me to do that, the pump was replaced, checked and i has been.

The dealer said i think you will be pleased, it's a lot better which right says to me it has not been solved, which is hasn't i have asked what oil was used but can not get a straightforward answer out of them.

The next step they have agreed to let the FL2 go to Bell Engineering, the crux is bell are over run with work, and you need to phone 1st November to be booked in for January 2024.

Now that means i have to wait until then to see if in fact they have done that to keep to their agreement, in the mean time i am reluctant to do any work on the Haldex myself just in case it jeopardises my warranty with them.

While i am waiting i am gathering together Haldex oil filters etc for both the Manual TD4 and the SD4 Auto, along with other oils for the diff, PTU, and engine.

I will be purchasing all the Haldex itmes from ( https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/) they are away until the end of October.

Quote:

NeilTD4 wrote:

I have some of Land Rovers own Haldex fluid which also have Borg Warner branding on them...

Click image to enlarge

The LR/Borg Warner fluid has now been in the Haldex for a few months and I've had no issues.

I managed to get a few tube for a good price.

I did post back along when I'd 'refreshed' my Haldex. I had it serviced by Bell in 2022. After only 10k miles the fluid I got out was quite dark with 'bits' in it.

So I'll do a refresh next year as I've got a couple of tubes left, then get Bell to give it a full going over the following year...

I am currently waiting my 20 mins after unplugging the large plug to the Haldex which it says in their trouble shooting page, will drive it if no grabbing scrabbling then it the ECU apparently.

https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/

https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/land-rover...solutions/

Booked into Bell Engineering January 8th for there service below.

Haldex 4/5 Judder Fix - Recalibration

Full Haldex service, decontamination.

Haldex reset and recalibration.

2 hr 30 mins £564

But they give no warranty or guarantee it will solve the problem?

So i will have to ask on the day, seeing the Haldex has already had a new filter, new pump, and oil and apparently been flushed out by the dealer whom i do not trust one bit.

I also managed to get a partial payment from the dealer for £250 towards the cost of the above, what a fight that was with them.

I recently did the test that ( https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/land-rover...solutions/ ) say to do.

No scrabbling or grabbing, so according the the above my Haldex with it's new pump, and new filter added by the dealer, Ravenol oil used which is not supposed to be to good when plugged back in returns to scrabbling grabbing, so it could be the N373 valve.

Hopefully today i can remove the Ravenol and add some of this below.
1

2

With reference to what Bell Engineering are going to do on the 8th which is remove the Haldex, take it a part clean it out no need for new pump, new filter maybe, how is it going to rectify the problem so a chat before any work is carried out i think.

Had few faults show up once the large plug was disconnected.
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4

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All cleared when the ECU was plugged back in.
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any views or opinions on the quick test i followed above.