Hi, if you have read any of my previous posts you will see that i do what i am confident in regarding maintenance. I use a local independant but do my own pad replacement and basic servicing. Anyway here,s my questions, although just passed mot with no advisories the handbrake is and always has been pretty poor. On removing the drum found a large build up of rust. Now i know it doesn,t effect the braking but would replacing rear disc/drums improve the handbrake efficiency. Thoughts please.

If the handbrake has always been not good it might be worth changing the discs and shoes but first I would consider changing the handbrake cables as from past experience these can rust inside and partially sieze, had this on a Defender. 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
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I would do a brake service strip everything down, clean up and inspect

Had similar on ours, the shoes only work on the polished part of the disc/drum, the rusted, pitted surface does nothing in holding the vehicle. It's pretty cheap to get parts from somewhere like Euro Car Parts. Make sure you get the right discs, there are two types one for cable brakes and one for electric, they look similar and fit but they are not inter changeable. I only changed the discs as the shoes were hardly worn, not surprising really as you usually only apply the brake after you are stationary so next to no friction wear. Also make sure you thoroughly clean, free up and lubricate the handbrake linkage inside the drum if it's slightly sticky it won't work properly.

hi i put new cables , shoes , adjusters and discs on my fl2 09 s back in may and it made 58 % on the brake test the MOT tester said it was good for a fl2 . before that it was crap  2009 FL2 S now gone
2011 FL2 HSE AUTO
2012 FL2 XS AUTO
2000 Kawasaki er 5

Asking as a know nothing, if 58% is good what % is an mot fail ?

no 58% was excellent according to mot chap was the best he had seen on a freelander for a while  2009 FL2 S now gone
2011 FL2 HSE AUTO
2012 FL2 XS AUTO
2000 Kawasaki er 5

edit dont know what % is a fail 2009 FL2 S now gone
2011 FL2 HSE AUTO
2012 FL2 XS AUTO
2000 Kawasaki er 5

From Past experience, change all the handbrake cables, shoes, and possibly discs. I had a handbrake jam the wheel, and I think that contributed to the failure of the rear differencial, and the front bevel box and gearbox coupling. A cost of around £2500 to repair. Also two tyres shredded.

Rear brake pads replaced recently and all working parts in the drum serviced and lubricated. That,s when i noticed the heavy solid rust build up in the drums. Tried to clean them up with wire mop in a drill but to no avail. Will replace i think . Anyone got the part number for caliper bolts. In the past i have refitted with thread lock but this time will renew.

Replacing the cables is sensible, especially if the parking brake lever is stiff to pull. I replaced the cables, shoes, rotors, lubricated and correctly adjusted the shoes. This now means I can lock the rear wheels with just a 2 finger pull on the lever.
The MOT tester also locks the rear wheels on the road brake test. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
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william john wrote:

Anyone got the part number for caliper bolts.

As someone who is not a mechanic, why would they make the rear shoes manual adjust not automatic. Is it cheaper or did they raid the parts bin of another model ? My handbrake needs adjusting so have rang the mechanic to sort before the mot.

The FL2 is a parts bin special and most of it isn’t even Land Rover, with parts from Ford, Volvo and Peugeot scattered around it. Even the basic floor pan monocoque is shared with Volvo. BUT no one designs a part from scratch if they don’t have too.
The hand brake shoes shouldn’t wear as they are only applied when the car is at standstill and are released as the car moves even on a hill start. The cables can stretch and that is easy to adjust.

Cheers, it was just me wondering. I will get it done before the mot hopefully.