Nodge68
Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Newquay
Posts: 2082
 
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notwen wrote:Hi guys.
Okay abit of an update from me on this.
In the end I went for the Witter Towbar - which was a doddle to fit....no bumper removal etc. And it came with an FL2 dedicated wiring loom which was also very easy to fit. Grey multi-pole connector that connects into corresponding grey connector in boot space of the FL2, and the loom has a black 'module' already connected with it.
But no trailer lights/functions work?
Any ideas?
I did note that in the bootspace fuse box on my car there was now fuse in FA9 - so a fitted one, and still nothing.
The fusebox lid also indicates a fuse position FA11 (40A) - but this is also vacant. Looks like its a style of fuse I'm not familiar with - i.e. bigger, more like a relay socket.
Is it possible it's just this bigger fuse that's preventing the trailer electrics from working?
Or is it, as I've read on other topics, that I need to take the car to a dealer to have trailer electrics programmed 'on'?
I've no experience with non LR towing modules. However from memory both towing fuses need to be installed. The fuse you're talking about is called a J type, they come in 2 heights, short and tall, you'll need the short type, which is available from most car accessory shops.
All lights should work without any programming, the brake lights don't even go through the towing module, they are powered directly from the car's brake light supply.
It's only the special towing features that need activation, like rear PDC deactivation, fog light deactivation, and the anti-sway system activation.
If nothing is working, make sure the earth connection is sound, which you didn't mention fitting. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.
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21st Sep 2022 5:52 am |
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