Hello everybody. We've found a Freelander 2 which looks a decent buy but I've a few questions I'm hoping you can help with. The car in question is 59 reg GS manual with 56k on the clock. Service history is good but not perfect-a couple missing but mileage in between actual services quite low. The issues I have concern what's apparently not been done:-

1 No mention of flexible brake hoses being changed which I gather should be done at 6 yr intervals. There's no mention of brake hose problems on the MOT's so I'm taking that as evidence that they're OK at least for the time being. If the seller won't replace them what sort of cost are we looking ?

2 Coolant not replaced at 10 yrs. Seller might do this as I assume it's not an expensive job.

3 Power transfer unit oil not replaced at 10 yrs. How big /expensive a job is this and is the fact that it's 2 yrs+ overdue likely to be a problem in the future?

Hope you can help and thanks in advance for any replies.

My MY2007 still has the same flexible brake hoses it had 12 years ago when I bought it.
If the cam belt has been changed, a prudent owner would have had the water pump changed at the same time and the coolant has to be drained to do that. The cam belt should be changed at 7 year intervals even if the mileage hasn’t been done so third cam belt change is coming up.
The Haldex and differential also need the fluids changed. There is also a pair of filters in the Haldex. One is a straight replacement, the other needs the Haldex pump removed fo access. Prudent owners change gearbox, power transfer box, Haldex and rear differential fluids more often than Land Rover recommend. More in line with the service intervals of Volvo or Audi who use the same or similar components. It makes Land Rover look as if they have lower servicing costs, until the unit fails and the owner has to stump up the replacement/repair cost![/b]

Thanks for all of that BossBob. The cam belt is being done on Friday, so perhaps when we have a chat about the brake hoses tomorrow we'll see if he's changing the water pump and coolant. The seller says he's had the rear diff changed as it was a bit noisy but we'll ask about the Haldex filters as well-are they something you'd do if you were replacing the diff? Gear box oil is also being changed but we've not discussed the power transfer box oil. Is that much of a job?

I'd not loose too much sleep over the flexy hoses being original, but I suspect that it'll need new calipers soon, so change the flexy hoses then, or if they come up on the MOT.
I'm OCD about brakes, as I use mine to transport my children so changed the whole braking system when I bought mine.

The water pump and idler pulleys should be changed with the timing belt, so the coolant will be changed at the same time.

The PTU, Haldex fluid and filter, and rear diff should all have the fluids changed at 3 year intervals, although LR say 10 years, which is 7 years too long.
As to whether it'll be a problem PTU oil hasn't been changed yet, well they fail quite often, about 50k miles or so, so it's about due a failure soon.

Oh and don't over pay for the vehicle, as there are a lot of massively over priced, low spec Freelander 2s about at the moment, and the prices will likely crash this time next year.
My 58 plate SE with a damaged engine cost me £3200 all in to get it on the road and functioning correctly, which also included bringing the brakes, rear diff, steering and tyres all back to new standard. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Haldex units are used by many car makers, Volvo and Audi are just the 2 that I know for certain. Volvo made an AWD on the same floor pan as the FL2 using the same version of the Haldex and you’ll find parts on your car labelled as Volvo and Ford. (They can be better value if you can cross reference the part numbers and the same fluid in a volvo bottle is way cheaper than something labelled up by Land Rover.)
I’d had a noisy differential for a while so went to Bell Engineering and had them exchange the diff for one of theirs that had been fitted with an up rated nose bearing. With the diff off it is much easier to get to the Haldex to change the filters but only someone who wants to do preventative maintenance or is willing to pay for it to be done would do so but most people who have changed the fluid comment on how dirty it is.
Land Rover seem to treat driveline components as sealed for life and omit useful things like drain plugs even though there is often a place in the casting for the hole so you’ll often have to feed a tube into the filler and suck out the fluid.
If you are having the flexible brake hoses changed it is worth thinking about stainless braided hoses. I used them on all of my motorcycles and they improve the feel of the lever/pedal immensely and are longer lasting than rubber for not a lot of extra cost. You could change them yourself if you are confident about bleeding the brake system.

Hi,

agree with Nodge dont overpay for a low mileage car at the mo,
at 12 years old I would be more bothered about history and condition than the miles it has done
(our 2013 GS manual with 110k was £7k)

as for the gearbox the oil for a manual is not much more than £10 and easy job to do (get them to do)
is it a dealer selling as your getting work done before sale
if its prvt get the value reduced by what their going to spend then get the work done by who YOU trust to make sure its all done.

 .
my first ever FL2 and I did keep it longer than most other cars!
But its now gone way up Norf

Check the subframes for rust ! 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Mahatma Gandhi said if there is an Idiot in power those who elected him are well represented

It is a dealer and he seems to be a reasonable sort. We've told him we want evidence/bills for what he's done. We'll have a good look around the car and drive it before we decide to buy. Seller is getting a new MOT done so if sub-frames are suspect that should show up with at least an advisory but it was also serviced at a main dealer last year and there was no mention then of rust.
As for price there doesn't seem much available at the moment and used prices have been rising for some time because of the difficulties in getting new cars. All I can say is the price seems competitive at the moment but who knows how the market is going to go in the future. In 6 mnths it might look like we got a bargain or paid too much-no good worrying about it.

Though 59 reg what is the MY a 2010 MY is a very different animal DPF, different engine management 2010 MY was big upgrade and I think a change in GM's/km to the better my PC is slightly to the right of Genghis
2012 HSE SD4 In Orkney Grey now gone, best car ever.

Reg on 6/11/09 so could be either I would think, but stands a good chance of being 2010 MY doesn't it?How can you tell the difference?

The chassis number is the best place to identify the MY.
I'd think a vehicle registered in November 2009 will be a 2010 MY though, as my September 2008 registered vehicle is a 2009 MY.
There are other visual differences, but you need to know what to look for and where. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

I tried a local LR dealer and LR themselves to see if they could provide a brochure or just a list of features/specs for different models for the period but neither could help. Any other ideas as to where I might ask/look? DPFs are manageable but a nuisance. I've never had a problem with my 59 reg Jag XF but I don't know how tempremental the FL2 DPF might be. Any advice?

The DPF on any car can clog, and cause issues, particularly if the vehicle isn't used at motorway speeds very often.
I chose to buy a 2009 MY SE, which has plenty of toys, no DPF, and no silly stop-start stuff to cause issues or extra expenses.

I particularly wanted a cheap one, so I found one that needed repairing, and fixing it gave me a good education on how these vehicle are put together. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Hi again. The "possible purchase" has now been purchased! Collected it yesterday and first 150 miles have been negotiated without any isues arising and at approx 50mpg for around 100 miles of motorway driving mainly at moderate speeds due to temporary speed limits. 1 thing we need to do is replace the wheel arch trims. I've done a search but the subject doesn't seem to have cropped up lately. What's the latest thinking-stick with genuine LR parts or go for an alternative? If the latter which one? All advice appreciated., thanks.

Hi,

well done and hope you enjoy it

its probably not cropped up as everyone has now took them off to stop them swelling and looking rubbish and no longer doing what they should

 .
my first ever FL2 and I did keep it longer than most other cars!
But its now gone way up Norf