Just a warning not to buy your "LR000055" from John Craddock. You will receive an Allmakes/Britpart/Generic flat flanged nut without the rebated internal lip, despite the pic on the page showing genuine packaging, so again not suitable for the task.

The returns process for £3 of nuts and a fight over postage costs simply isn't worth my time and diesel, so in the metal scrap bin they go. Current driveway contents:
2021 V60 Cross Country B5
2009 FL2 dog bus and shooting wagon

On Order: 2023 Fisker Ocean Ultra - deposit paid.

Try these from Land Rover

https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/lr000055-nut-hex.html

Funnily enough they have become my go-to for some of the more obscure bits that Advanced don't stock. It was only the minimum order of 10 that put me off, but as it happens that would likely have proved more cost effective in the first place  Current driveway contents:
2021 V60 Cross Country B5
2009 FL2 dog bus and shooting wagon

On Order: 2023 Fisker Ocean Ultra - deposit paid.

If you do buy Ten I will have Two off you with a postage fee added of course

Duly noted

I'll be drawing up a list for the rebuild of the rear suspension, which also includes two of these, so likely will order everything late next week once I've checked a few things  Current driveway contents:
2021 V60 Cross Country B5
2009 FL2 dog bus and shooting wagon

On Order: 2023 Fisker Ocean Ultra - deposit paid.

If the rear needs them I will have four of the ten from you please, sooner or later I shall use them

 Current driveway contents:
2021 V60 Cross Country B5
2009 FL2 dog bus and shooting wagon

On Order: 2023 Fisker Ocean Ultra - deposit paid.

That’s interesting to read, I did a full front end rebuild last year on mine with bwi shocks and keep getting a knocking sound from time to time. I’ll have a look at the top nut you mentioned as I used the ones supplied. Where I have had issues is with the Delphi lower control arms which failed with 3months, and the replacements supplied did the same leaking oil from the rear bush. Interestingly Delphi technical did indicate there may be a batch issue but never responded when the second set failed and neither did bearmach who supplied them. That’s the last money of mine they will see. Another issue I had was front subframe bolts working loose, I also didn’t use new bolts when perhaps I should have.

You can see if the top of the strut moves by removing the scuttle cover and sticking a hex key in, then getting someone to hop up and down on the sill or side-step (if fitted) on that side of the car. The length of the hex key amplifies any movement relative to the top plate.

I fitted new nuts/bolts on the arms and bought the Meyle HD arms. Actually that's a small lie, as I somehow mislaid one of the new bolts for the rear of the arms so re-used one until I either find the one I mislaid (only a couple of places it can be, and one of those is in the recycling centre a few miles away along with the other packaging) or if that fails I shall order another next weekend. A couple of weeks using the old one shouldn't prove a problem (he says, hopefully) Current driveway contents:
2021 V60 Cross Country B5
2009 FL2 dog bus and shooting wagon

On Order: 2023 Fisker Ocean Ultra - deposit paid.

I’ll be interested to see your progress on the rear end. I’m about to do mine as it’s like a boat when towing. When I had my alignment done recently the left rear wheel camber was just into the red, but they wouldn’t adjust it as everything was rusted solid and I was warned bolts could shear off. I was advised as part of the refresh, to replace all the bolts etc which makes sense. Looking at the link bars, can’t decide whether to rebush the original land rover bars or replace with pattern parts. AF do a full set , but another online place does a similar set considerably cheaper, but not sure what either make is. Obviously not genuine, but imagine ordering all that stuff and a load of britpart stuff turns up.

I did my rear shocks in February for the MOT as the left rear started leaking some time between MOTs.
The hardest part of the whole job is to get the shock out of the hub carrier clamp.
The trick is to open the carrier by inserting a wedge (I topped in a chisele), which then spreads the clamp section enough for the grip on the shock tube to be relaxed.
I didn't remove the radius arm bolts, I simply loosened the bolts at the hub carrier end, to avoid damage to the bushes, and dive some wiggle room.
One thing that is important, is to mark the position of the 3 top mounting nuts. The top mounting is adjustable, so fitting it in a different location will alter the suspension geometry. I used sharpy to draw around the nuts, giving me a datum to line the top mount back up again, when refitting the shock.
It took me nearly 3 hours to do the first side (that did include removing the boot trims), and under an hour for the second, as I knew what worked and what didn't.

I used OE shocks from my preferred supplier AF. The top nuts worked as they should have. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Thanks for the heads up. I wasn’t aware the top mounts on the rear were adjustable, only the fronts. My top mount is knocking so I suspect the inner part has failed, so was going to replace the whole lot, inc spring As the passenger rear wheel camber is just out of spec. Any ideas where to find the correct setting procedure for that. I used the kyb you tube video for the front and flipped the 8 degree adjustment for the opposite side.

NoDo$h wrote:

Solved it! Or rather, my dear wife did. Albeit indirectly. She knows I've been over everything with a torque wrench and was giving me a hand bouncing the car while we tried to figure out where the movement was. She asked "you've not missed out any washers, have you? It feels like it's only a couple of mm of play that causing the knock"

Now I know there are no washers anywhere in assemblies I've replaced, but it got me thinking about the top mounts again. I popped the scuttle cover off and checked the 3 mounting bolts (LR008026) by slacking them off and re-torquing to 30Nm per spec, then checked the strut top nut (LR000055) using an "open" 18mm socket, ratchet wrench and a 6mm Hex. It was fully torqued down.

I left the (bright yellow) 6mm Hex in while I scratched my head and gave the car another bounce. Sure enough there was still the knock and play..... and out of the corner of my eye I saw the yellow hex key bobbing up and down.

I popped the nut (supplied with the BWI shock absorber) off and peered down through the keyhole in the strut turret. The thread on the shock shaft stops about 1.5mm *above* the strut top mount, so there was no way the nut could snug down on the top of the strut top mount.

So off I went to dismantle the original, worn shocks to compare and would you believe, the OE nut has a recess/shoulder of about 1.5mm that allows you to snug the nut down over that small unthreaded section.

I fitted the old nuts to the top of the shocks and all knocking has now gone.

Pic shows the original nut with the recess (left) and the new, flat nut that came with the shocks (right).

If you decide to replace your front shocks, make sure you order a couple of genuine LR nuts (LR000055) and throw the ones that come with the shocks in the bin - you'll save yourself a LOT of grief.

Click image to enlarge

If the movement is as little as NoDo$h suggests you would probably have to feel it rather than see it. Get access to one of the nuts in question and put your fingertips on it and the mount then get an assistant to bounce the car on that corner. There shouldn’t be any movement felt there at all.

Thanks for that...will try it.

Can't believe the shock piston will drop if the top nut is taken off....surely if that were the case the shock wouldn't be able to do it's job?