Good evening everyone. Me and my partner have brought a manual 2010 Freelander 2 that's done 144,000 miles. Before we collected the car it had a new rear diff fitted and we also asked for the Haldex to be serviced. When following it back with my partner driving the Freelander there was a point on a small roundabout turning right that it looked like the back wheel was rotating faster than it should have been/almost wheel spinning like it had a locked diff. I just put it down to an optical illusion.

When driving it today leaving Tesco's going around another small roundabout there seems to be a strange sensation from the rear of the car. It's almost like the diff turns into a locked diff because it feels like the inside rear wheel is being dragged round. There are no strange sounds or any crunching, just that the rear at times feels like it's being dragged rather than pivoting. By my various searches I'm guessing this is not normal?

Does anyone know what it could be? Is there any tests that I can do? What's the best approach to take as I'd prefer not to damage anything?

Thanks for all your help.

Most likely a haldex issue IMO.
Does the problem go away if you either pull the haldex fuse (you'll need to look up where yours is) or unplug the haldex control unit from under the car? - the connector is on the side of the haldex unit. You'll get some temporary warnings on the dash after disconnecting it. But if the issue resolves then its the haldex not disengaging. But if it doesnt resolve then it could still be the haldex.

Contact Bell Engineering - Austin is the person to go to for Haldex/driveline issues.
https://www.bellengineering.co.uk/contact-us
https://www.bellengineering.co.uk/fault-symptoms Jules

I was wondering if it was going to point towards the Haldex. If I pull the fuse can I drive without the Haldex without causing damage to the car? Pulling the fuse is something my partner is going to try tomorrow before she goes to work.

Just to add. Is the fuse FB6 Electronic Centre Differential in the boot fuse compartment? Thanks.

Varies by year and model - but that's the correct description so if that's the one in your owners' manual then you've got the right one. Current driveway contents:
2021 V60 Cross Country B5
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Dean1234 wrote:

If I pull the fuse can I drive without the Haldex without causing damage to the car?

Correct.  Current driveway contents:
2021 V60 Cross Country B5
2009 FL2 dog bus and shooting wagon

On Order: 2023 Fisker Ocean Ultra - deposit paid.

I would recommend pulling the fuse over unplugging the unit. The fuse is easy to get at and quick to replace. The plug is fragile and easily broken and you have to lie on the floor to get to it.

We drove off around for a month or two with it unplugged. I read somewhere that officially the Haldex manual day not to drive above 30mph with it not operating but plenty of people have run them about for much longer.

Oddly having ours unplugged for a couple of months seems to have cured it. I've got a service kit ready to service it but we've been driving around for about a month now with no Haldex issues.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed!

Dean1234 wrote:

I was wondering if it was going to point towards the Haldex. If I pull the fuse can I drive without the Haldex without causing damage to the car? Pulling the fuse is something my partner is going to try tomorrow before she goes to work.

Unfortunately my Freel 2 has been maintained by some clueless moron, the same moron whom didn't put oil in a replacement rear diff, so it seized (pretty scary and inconvenient too). Unfortunately this same prat put gear oil in the Haldex (presumably thinking he's filling the diff), however I cleaned the Haldex with brake cleaner, and replaced the consumables in it. I now get a pulsed shudder when turning tight corners while accelerating, so it seems the clutch pack has been damaged or contaminated my the gear oil.

I'm thinking the only fix now is to replace the clutch pack, and clean the Haldex passages more thoroughly than last time.  Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

I was told by Bell Engineering not too use brake cleaner as it alters the friction of the plates. He said to use a paraffin based cleaner.

I've yet to do mine, I have the service kit ready, but need to pull it off to clean properly.

After being unplugged for a couple of months mine seems to have sorted itself (now I've plugged it back in) and isn't juddering any more.

That's interesting. I've access to plenty of kerosene, so using cleaning shouldn't be a problem.
I'll be stripping it again soon ,as I can't imagine the shuddering is doing the PTU or rebuilt diff any good. I might as well replace the clutch pack whilst it's out the car, which hopefully will solve the shuddering issue. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Nbuuifx wrote:

I was told by Bell Engineering not too use brake cleaner as it alters the friction of the plates. He said to use a paraffin based cleaner.

I've yet to do mine, I have the service kit ready, but need to pull it off to clean properly.

After being unplugged for a couple of months mine seems to have sorted itself (now I've plugged it back in) and isn't juddering any more.

Interesting and also unsurprising in a way.

Nodge68 wrote:

That's interesting. I've access to plenty of kerosene, so using cleaning shouldn't be a problem.
I'll be stripping it again soon ,as I can't imagine the shuddering is doing the PTU or rebuilt diff any good. I might as well replace the clutch pack whilst it's out the car, which hopefully will solve the shuddering issue.

Surely Dean has a case to raise with the supplying dealer as they "recently" serviced the Haldex. MY 09 GS manual in Lago Grey, Wood Co arm rest and side bumper strips - now sold.

MY 15 SD4 SE Auto Orkney Grey with colour coded Bumper Door Mouldings

NoDo$h wrote:

Varies by year and model - but that's the correct description so if that's the one in your owners' manual then you've got the right one.

My partner has pulled the fuse this morning and is using it to get to and from work to see if it makes it better.