I've come to the conclusion that the noise from the rear of my Freelander is most likely to be suspension related.

It started as a scrabbling from the rear left wheel. We disconnected the Haldex unit and the scrabbling went but there was still a slight noise from that same wheel. Not all the time and fairly quiet. However over the next month or so the noise then increased. It is now at the point where it is quite audible, you can just about hear it from the front but sitting in the back it is quite noticeable. It seems to happen when going over slightly bumpy road and sometimes on bends.

That got me down to bearings or suspension. The bearings passed the rocking side to side test etc. But apparently they don't often fail like this in the Freelander. It was then suggested to try serving left and right at 20mph see if it makes a noise, y did once it twice but want consistent and again more related to the road surface (I think)

So I moved onto suspension. If I sit on the boot edge and bounce up and down with my weight and then get off, then the rear end carries on bouncing for another couple of bounces. I was following our Freelander yesterday and noticed it did seem to bounce a little on the rear end. It of pure coincidence it caught up to another Freelander so I was able to watch both and ours was definitely more bouncy.

I was also towing a trailer load of hay at the weekend and with the extra weight on the rear of the car it seemed to stop the noise from the rear. I'm fairly sure there was only then trailer noise!

So I've ordered a pair of KYB shocks, a pair of droplinks, and replacement hub pinch bolts. I plan next weekend to replace these and to replace the discs, pads, shoes and calipers.

I also have a service kit for the Haldex unit for another weekend.

I've watched the video on YouTube, is there anything else that would be prudent to get in ready as once I start I don't want to be having to stop half way through to get parts etc. I'll need the Freelander on the Monday. Or anything else that would be worth replacing whilst I'm at that point.

I realise I'm taking a bit of a gamble on the wheel bearings, and if I change all this then they'll be the next port of call.


I've got a few extra tools for the jobs

Strut spreader socket
Brake shoe spring pliers
Spring compressors

Again if you can think of anything else that would be handy (I've got most normal tools).

Any other thoughts?

Good luck, are you able to take pics so it helps others if they have to do this??

Indeed, a 'how to' with pictures is always good 👍. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

This is useful shows front but rears are very much the same

 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Mahatma Gandhi said if there is an Idiot in power those who elected him are well represented

AT1963 wrote:

Good luck, are you able to take pics so it helps others if they have to do this??

Quite a coincidence reading this tonight as last Friday I replaced the rear shock absorber and spring, parts obtained from Rimmer brothers. Having had a slight knock on the rear suspension somewhere? Having replaced the offside two years ago, mot advisery as weeping. Passed but advisery.
So firstly I supported the car with chocks on all three wheels although the car was within park plus the handbrake on, jacking up with a bottle jack under the position on the sill (cill).
Second bottle jack under the rear subframe mounting bolt just behind the suspension strut front of the subframe, axle stand under the subframe mount-rear as backup.
I the wire brushed all the bolts needed to remove and soaked them in WD40, removed the brake calipre and hung it off the exhaust rubber with a cable tie.
Removed the Torx retaining bolts x2 off the abs and brake pipe brackets and pushed them out of the way
Attempted to undo the nut on the anti roll bar but had to counter hold with a 5mm Allen key, eventually all was good, attempted to undo the 15mm clamp bolt for the strut, nope, not a movement, So I warmed up the casting-slightly with a vortex plumbers blow lamp-highly recommended from toolstation as an extra, the bolt then freed off and was able to undo without grief,
What I did then was to remove the wheel arch liner, with some discomfort ie Mud loads of it and now all clean
Then removed the nearside inner boot cover plus the 3 13mm nuts on the strut mount plus the damper.
Lowered the subframe bottle jack, the strut leaned outwardly I then knocked an old screwdriver up through the split in the hub casting to open out the mounting (only slightly) and wiggled out the strut, without the arch cover removed it wouldn’t be possible to have had access to remove it, a couple of spring clamps on the old spring “carefully no airguns only a spanner to release the spring, undo the 18mm locknut, remove the spring etc, bumpstop, lower rubber mat, swop over to replacement and carefully return the new spring and strut to the original using the Haynes manual for torques etc and returning back through the removal process.
Having now driven my freelander now a week with rear passengers it’s very quiet indeed, plus it took me 15 mins or so just to re torque all of the fixings. Week on.

My dealer-Main wanted £650.00 plus vat to do this repair, this cost me less than £160 with new strut, spring, bumpstop,gaiter,nut and bolt, although classed as OEM parts I think it’s value for money. Simples.

Thanks for the post, that's sounds slightly different with your order to the videos I've watched but makes sense too.

Was it much hassle to get the hub off the bottom of the strut? Especially with it then loose at the top? Most I've seen take the hub off the bottom before undoing the top. If I read it right, you undid the top first (I guess to give more room at the bottom, by pulling the bottom forwards a little) before removing the hub. The ones if seen had to give the hub a good whack after widening the pinch, to knock it down the strut, and obviously the fact it was held at the top was what gave the whack any purpose.

Also is there any chance you could post the torque values required?

I have 110Nm down for the pinch bolt but I don't have values for the others.

Thanks

Torque settings from the Haynes manual.

Probably easier to read in my gallery.

 (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

That's brilliant, thank you

Well, I seemed to struggle trying to release the hub downwards as the other link arms have taught rubber mountings which don’t give too much, plus I didn’t want to remove too much of these links as possibly there could be an issue with the drive shaft joints either end causing oily/greasy head aches of further rectification work.
By slackening and removing the strut top plus the inner arch liner the strut angled itself towards the upper wheel arch and with a twist or two I was able to pull and twist the strut upwards and out. Be careful tho if your doing the nearside rear? There are two plastic fuel tank breather pipes clipped to the inner wing behind the arch cover.
Remembering when I refitted the new strut etc into the hub and by jacking up the whole assembly with a bottle jack under the rim of the brake disc where the handbrake shoes are, the whole top strut assembly seemed to drop back into the three holes then able to just put the nuts on a couple of turns to hold it.
My technique worked for me without grief of the drive shafts.
If you require any assistance I’m available and in north Staffordshire near to Junction 16 M6.

That's great thanks for the reply.

I'll make a start today, fingers crossed it all goes well! I'm just hoping I don't get half way through and find worn out bits that need ordering!

Thank you for the offer of help that is very kind and I'll keep it in mind if it all goes pear shaped! I'm not too far away, between 15 and ,16.

I'm sure once I start, I'll get a feel for the space and can try either option then.

Thanks again.

Well the rubber bits at the bottom have put a stop to it for now 🙄

The first one is too damaged to reuse.

Anyone know where I can get one on a Sunday?

I spent a good bit of time removing the arch liners and cleaning behind, then wire brushing, then painting. Painted the entire inner of the first side ready for refitting.

Undone everything on the second side, could just do with using the spring compressors from the first side to take some pressure off the second side. The hub is about half way down but becoming reluctant to go any further.

Just annoyed about these little bits of rubber now!

Good grief in this weather well done.

It was ok here, nice and dry. A little cold but once you are working it is fine.