Hi all
Recently developed a problem with my sat nav flashing the LR logo continuously and my stereo just showing the clock but not turning on
Been through threads and advised to check RD1 Relay
After checking the manual my relay isn’t a relay!
It’s this metal square? Is this a botch job or a legitimate replacement?
I’ve had the car 18months and never had a problem until recently so it was obviously doing the job
Would this cause my issue?
Is it worth replacing this with a ‘proper’ relay?
If so can I just pull this out?
Thanks so much

I seem to recall that is just a jumper and is meant to be so if it is the one I think it is - no other contacts in that socket 2014 Freelander 2 TD4 Manual Dynamic
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover - undergoing restoration

It is noted in the workshop manual that RD1 is not a relay but a bridge that powers the whole of the MOST ring. The most (Media Oriented System Transport) ring is an optical fibre cable that feeds the radio, cd player, sat nav, amplifier, bluetooth, and dab modules and also feeds the sound for the parking sensors. If the LR logo is flashing either the power to the modules is corrupt or one of the modules is faulty. Most of the cures posted here were that the dab module was faulty. On my FL2 the first thing I noticed was dab had disappeared. Then after a week or two the logo started flashing but would come back for a time. Eventually the flashing was permanent. I got a female fibre optic loop on flea bay and by-passed the dab module. Everything now works perfectly. I don't miss the dab as reception is poor where I live in the moorlands. Hope this helps others to sort out their problems. P_Gill posted a very good run through.

Amarajohn.

Thanks for that explains a lot
I don’t have DAB so can you suggest where and how to check next please?
I took the dvd out of the sat nav which is 2007 disk cleaned it and still the same
If I buy the suggested loop how do I use it and will I lose the cd?
Since you mentioned it I’ve noticed my parking sensors aren’t. Working ( no beeps )
I’m learning a lot from you guys thanks so much

Do you have bluetooth? This is also a possible candidate causing the issue. See https://www.freel2.com/gallery/albums/user...etwork.pdf. this document describes a "reset" of the MOST ring by removing RD1 for a while. If you remove it the power to all MOST modules is removed, if you insert it again each module will power up and a "reset" sequence will start. If this solves your problem I don't know.

The modules connected to the MOST ring are: radio front panel, satnav screen, satnav dvd player, amplifier, bluetooth module, DAB module, radio/cd player. The ring is used for transporting audio and control data between modules.

Each module has to receive the signal from the previous module in the ring and send it to the next module in the ring. If a module is broken it will not send the signal to the next module and the ring is broken, nothing connected to the ring will work anymore. A broken module can be found by bypassing one module at the time with a shunt which connects the 2 optical fibers so the signal continues.

The beeps of the parking sensors come out of the speakers, if the MOST ring is broken these will not beep anymore because the amplifier driving the speakers is also part of the ring.

Thanks brilliant I’ll try that
If you look at my picture I don’t have an actual relay is the silver square what I need to remove and replace in order to reset the most ring?
That is in the place where the RD1 relay should be according to the fuse box pictures I have seen on this forum

Thanks again

I guess so. The silver square on the photo you posted seems to be the power supply link mentioned in the document, the photo seems to match the drawing.

If that does not fix it than you will have to find the failing module by bypassing one by one until you find the module causing the issues. You need a MOST shunt to do this. The MOST cables are optical cables you cannot solder or connect together.

The only module you cannot bypass is probably the radio front panel. One module in the MOST ring has to be the master of the MOST ring and the document says the front panel is the master. Even if all other modules are OK, without a master nothing will work.

Yes - the silver bit is the jumper which connects the power supply to the MOST ring as I understand it. Pull it out & it will look like a 2 pronged fork, it didn't solve my issues, nor did a "hard" reset by disconnecting the battery for some time - what DID fix my issue was a new battery, which seems to be a common theme for any electrical weirdness. 2014 Freelander 2 TD4 Manual Dynamic
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover - undergoing restoration

I’ve done the reset didn’t solve it
I got a new battery shortly after buying the motor
I use a trickle charger as I don’t use the car a lot would that effect it?
When I had the new battery fitted the mechanic mentioned that a new starter motor had been fitted but it was a ‘cheap’ option could that be the problem

I believe others use a trickle charger (mostly "smart" ones I think) without issue with FL2's of all ages. I have a Ctek but not yet used on the FL2.

I doubt the starter would be an issue but then with so many electronic modules who knows!

If I were you my next step would be, I think getting a MOST shunt to bypass modules & hopefully narrowing down to a faulty module as Grumsel says.

Good luck  2014 Freelander 2 TD4 Manual Dynamic
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover - undergoing restoration

Great thanks I’ll order one today is it just the female one I need to bypass?
I intend starting with Bluetooth as I don’t use it
Is there a thread that shows how to get to/bypass that?
I’m trying to avoid stripping the dash if possible but I’m willing to give it a go if I have to

I sorted my issue with a new battery so never got as far as messing with the MOST ring but I think you are correct about just needing a female loop/shunt. I didn't get the joy of needing to find the BT module but I think maybe in the boot? I'm sure someone else will be along & able to tell you quite where

Have a read here if you have not already for what you need & how to go about it

pic of the shunt in this thread -

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic36819.html

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic37331.html?highlight=novel

I'm sure there are more threads about MOST issues & troubleshooting but those 2 are a good start  2014 Freelander 2 TD4 Manual Dynamic
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover - undergoing restoration

I’ve ordered the loop and the tools I’ll update when they arrive and I’ve had a go
Thanks for all your help greatly appreciated
Top group

The Bluetooth module and the Amplifier are under the rear window on the right (offside) behind the large panel in the boot. The dab module if you have one is the same but on the left (nearside).
If you follow the operations in the following topic

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic36819.html

it will show you how to do it.

New problem
Went to the garage to fill up and my petrol cap won’t open
I used the open all button on the dash but the petrol cap is still locked
I pulled the cover off trying to open it but the black ‘cover’ won’t open
Is this linked to the most ring?