Hi all,

sorrry if this is in the wrong place, i bought a 2007 HSE a couple of weeks ago from a small independent garage, I had the timing belt replaced for peace of mind then a few days later a squealing belt slipping kind of noise started then gradually got worse, i returned it to the garage and they said the turbo had failed which would explain the intake being full of oil.
I contacted the dealer/person to explain, then when he rung me back he said the turbo was replaced in Dec at a local garage he knows.....there is no record of this in the paperwork yet there is record of smaller work being carried out.
Both he and the garage are blaming the garage that carried out the timing belt work by saying they must have dropped some debris while changing it,
From what i can see the inlet is away from that area so i find this unlikely?
Could anyone offer any advice?
Thanks in advance

Part of the inlet tubing must be removed for changing the timing belt...

Difficult to know what has gone wrong without more info.

I'm highly suspicious of garages that start blaming others, claiming its not their responsibility.
My Brother in Law was a 2nd hand car dealer and I know what "tricks" he got up to.

What warranty was offered by the seller?
As its only been a few weeks I would have thought it was the sellers responsibility to sort it out asap not yours.
Either get them to fully repair it or get your money back.
I'm sure there are legal experts on here how can advise you better than me about your rights. Jules

alex_pescaru wrote:

Part of the inlet tubing must be removed for changing the timing belt...

Thanks for the replies, I spoke to the garage who done the timing belt who said no pipes needed to be moved so i'm even more uncertain now!
I spoke to to the dealer who sold me the car, i will be dropping it off to the local garage that replaced the turbo last year (still no evidence of this) for them to investigate. I can see them not wanting to replace it under warranty and it becoming a mess.
The noise didn't start straight away it started when it was hot, then now when it is cold too, the noise has changed to a warbling now so i am certainly not driving it until i drop it off.
Thanks again for the response, other than this issue i quite enjoy the car and this forum seems pretty good too.

jules wrote:

Difficult to know what has gone wrong without more info.

I'm highly suspicious of garages that start blaming others, claiming its not their responsibility.
My Brother in Law was a 2nd hand car dealer and I know what "tricks" he got up to.

What warranty was offered by the seller?
As its only been a few weeks I would have thought it was the sellers responsibility to sort it out asap not yours.
Either get them to fully repair it or get your money back.
I'm sure there are legal experts on here how can advise you better than me about your rights.

jules wrote:

alex_pescaru wrote:

Part of the inlet tubing must be removed for changing the timing belt...

Wouldn't be the first time someone dropped a nut into the inlet.

But you'd think it would make a horrid noise very soon after starting.

I know all about that.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

 Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Jnjsse wrote:

Thanks for the replies, I spoke to the garage who done the timing belt who said no pipes needed to be moved so i'm even more uncertain now!

Thanks again for the replies. I should hear tomorrow what the problem is (or atleast what the mechanic is told to say) something doesn't feel right about the situation so I may get a examination done on the car before I collect it.
I think it's unlikely that something has dropped down in there as I believe it would have made a racket straight away. There was an EGR fault showing so will be interested in what they say about that.
There was a sound like a boost leak and it seemed flat to drive, would this always throw a EML up?
Thanks again everyone

The turbo itself should tell at least part of the story...

Compressor blades chewed up? Something got dropped into the inlet plumbing.

Turbine-side blades chewed up? Some object from the exhaust/wastegate side got in there, and that could include part of a broken valve worst case.

But like you said, FOD should make an instant God-awful racket.

If the bearing is shot (and maybe blades where they rubbed after getting imbalanced) then that's either an oil problem, normal wear, or a mfg defect. Not normal wear with a new turbo. Did the second shop remove any oil connections? Some turbos need to be manually primed with oil on installation.

Do you have the old turbo? You can do some analysis of your own, or stand and watch while the shop does it. Seems like it should be the responsibility of the shop which installed the turbo to warrant the work, unless they can *prove* it was caused by the second shop. If you told them another shop had it, then they're obviously going to be spring-loaded to shift blame.

https://www.musclecardiy.com/performance/t...wrong-fix/

Don't see how the two items would affect each other but as a coincidence, I had the
timing belt changed earlier this year and beginning of August the turbo went!


Secondary to that, first time out on a decent bit of road, engine management light on.
Turbo over boost!
Pin hole in the intercooler was blamed. So that was changed.
First time on a decent road and engine management light back on.
Turbo underboost!
Back in and checked out, then confirmed by a LR tech the brand new Turbo was
electrically faulty!!!

Having replaced two turbos recently, I will throw a spanner into the works. A hole in a turbo pressure pipe can squeal like a stuck pig, so can a seized bearing on an alternator, or a turbo bearing about to seize through lack of oil. The changed Cambelt is a sales ploy to get you to buy the car. Nobody does repairs just before selling a car round here, they put sawdust in the sump and paint on the tyres. An electrically faulty Turbo is shot. The actuator has seized, hence the over boost that has put a hole in the pipe or intercooler. The oil in the pipe is normal, and comes from the EGR valve, which seize as well, and are the reason the turbo actuator goes wrong. I had a bloke tell me once that his boss said that a missing main spar in the wing of an aircraft he was servicing was not a reason to stop the plane flying, most garage mechanics have the same mindset unfortunately. I am sure that there are good people out there somewhere, but they are hard to find.

Hi, Thanks for the reply and apologies for not replying sooner, you were right the noise was a split in the pipe (it took his mates garage 3 weeks to diagnose) the car has now been returned with me losing some money which i'm ok with as i think i have avoided owning a head ache, he did not even acknowledge the other faults still present with the car.

It is now back up for sale for almost 8k with a fresh MOT and no advisories which seems odd as there were faults recorded in the inspection..........

Thanks for everyones replies but unfortunately this experience has put me off a Freelander for the time being...