Hi Bogart,

In my experience it’s not possible to narrow the gap with a small screwdriver as the female pins are tightly buried in plastic shroud that is the plug. You’d basically need to break the plug to do it. I’ve tried to narrow the gap as I was looking for an easy way out - you're not alone (smile).

That’s why I came up with those extension cables – so that I could return everything to factory condition if my diagnosis was wrong. The cost of the exercise is about 10 pounds (pins, shrink wrap and 3 short cables preferably different colours) and max 2 hours of your time. It sounds like you can wield a soldering iron just fine so you're half way there.

Pulling on individual cables will not yield results as each cable is well supported by the plug. If you turn the plug upside down so that you can see the part where cables enter the plug you will notice green sealing material that I believe is there to make the plug water tight from above. That material supports the cables so that any movement of the cables is not transferred to the connector. If you want proof that the plug is faulty, remove the silicone seal and follow the method I described earlier.

My car has not missed a single beat since I've made those connections nice and tight, as previously mentioned. Happy to clarify the process further if a particular step isn't clear. MY10 TD4 SE Auto

Had another go in a moment of inspiration, or was it madness. I used an internal circlip plier with very narrow ends. Pushed down over plug connectors and forced together a bit. Think must have done something as plug harder to push in. So who knows time will tell. If I was keeping her would probably do something along your lines of new connection on sensor pins and use a waterproof 3 pin plug after cutting the old plug off.

I'm having crank sensor issues myself, occasionally dropping one cylinder, and one sensor failed completely yesterday.
I'm thinking that a replacement plug might well be the best solution to the issue. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

I did replace the plug in the end. I managed to source a new plug from the USA. I also ordered gold plated connectors, as insurance against bad connections later on.
I fitted the new plug, and replaced the sensor with an OE sensor. So far, the dropout hasn't reoccured, except under full throttle when cold, which I'm putting down to an injector. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Hello

Do you mind sharing the link for the plug? Regards,
Germplus.

2008SE
Memory seats
Webasto Fuel Burning heater with smart phone remote start
Premium Surround Sound
Xtron Unit with wireless CarPlay
Dual Battery System
DAB

Off hand no, but I did order a second plug, as the shipping from the USA was stupidly expensive.
I'm going to be selling the spare plug on if interested? Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

yes I am interested. Please let me know when its up for sale. thank you. Regards,
Germplus.

2008SE
Memory seats
Webasto Fuel Burning heater with smart phone remote start
Premium Surround Sound
Xtron Unit with wireless CarPlay
Dual Battery System
DAB