Well that's good news. Modern head gaskets are pretty tough, they just don't seem to fail unless abused by overheating or racing, unlike the ones I grew up with.

I'd do the flushes to clear it out though.

So... the main water pipe from the thermostat to the top of the radiator has no extra length in it. It's the exact size to reach from the block to the rad. Evidently, I had not fully docked the thermostat end, and circlip had clicked into place before reaching the ring on the thermostat housing. So the pipe wasn't actually connected! Gonna head to the shops shortly with the car and report back after.

First proper flush done, with radiator flush. I've dumped that water, plugged the garden hose into the reservoir, opened a lower radiator pipe and have had the car running or about 20 minutes. Water is coming out pretty clear now. Going to top up the water, add another bottle of radiator flush and go for another drive.

But... I've just found a slight vacuum on the dipstick and oil filler cap while the engine is running. Is this normal? Nothing hectic, I was just alerted to it by the ever-so-slight change in engine sound when I removed the dipstick with the engine running. I then tried the oil filler cap and found that as the cap it almost in position, it get's sucked down very gently. I've never experienced this on a vehicle before.

The PCV system should draw a small vacuum on the crankcase, so yeah I think that would be normal. Never tried it though, removing the oil cap with the motor running will make a big mess on some cars.

A slight Vacuum is normal. (oil won't splash out the fill port if the cap is remove with the engine running at idle)

If the PCV fails the vacuum can reach full intake manifold vacuum level.

It doesn't sound like you are there.

"For that Day" https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32107.html

Thanks

Paul

Thanks guys. I feel a lot easier now! Second bottle of radiator flush is in the car and will be drained today. Water is looking at lot clearer, as are the rubber pipes that I checked.
Next... when I bought the car, the engine oil light was on. I did an oil change and used a Castrol 10W40, even though the manual specifies a 0W30. I reckoned that I live in a hot country so the extra weight would be ok. The oil light went away. That lasted for a year until I have now used a Castrol 0W30 - the oil light comes on again, but with no apparent cause. It is off when the car starts, but seems to come on as the oil warms up. It does not appear to be linked with revs (pressure). For the recent work, I got the RAVE manual which specifies a heavier oil in North African and Middle Eastern countries. It also stands to reason that the car could do with a heavier oil given it now has 190000 kms on it. What do you think?

you could measure the oil pressure to be certain whats going on in youir engine. Jules

On the 3.2, he'd have to drill a port somewhere... it has no direct oil pressure sensor. It interpolates oil pressure from the valve timing (which is actuated by oil pressure).

I would never drive any car with the oil light on, I'd pull over immediately and shut down.

My owners manual (2008 North America) says use 5W30 for all conditions, personally I wouldn't go any lighter than that unless it was *really* cold. My car sees temps between 25*F and 110*F, with trailer towing in the mountains in the summer heat.

These days Mfgs will spec lighter oil to get better fuel economy, which they need to meet regulatory requirements... even though a heavier oil might well be better for engine longevity. Too heavy is bad of course, but it seems both LR and Volvo started to spec lighter oil after about 2010. Maybe they modified the engine for that? Maybe not?

But an oil pressure light is a definite hint that your oil might be too thin.

Land Rover specified different oil for Europe and North America.

I've owned my 2008 since new and I completely ignored their US specification.

I run Mobil 1 0W40 in my LR2 3.2 (and I have since it was new)
and I run the same oil in my S80 3.2 (bought used almost three years ago)

If you really want to dig into it the oil I use is at the low end of the 40wt and after it gets used the viscosity can drop down into the 30wt region.


When I bought my S80 some mechanic had removed the pressure relief valve in the oil filter housing likely due to low oil pressure. Removing this valve bypasses the filter which will send more pressure to the Engine. I replaced these adulterated parts with the correct factory specification parts and I changed the entire housing due to a failed Anti Drain Valve (the actual root cause)


Link for when I replaced my Anti Drain Valve on my LR2

https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr2-35/a...der-78803/


Link for when I replaced my Anti Drain Valve on my S80

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/v...mp;t=87687


Note: there are two different housing one with an external oil line (Early Volvo and Land Rove) and one without the external line Later Volvo's. If the Land Rover part is the same price just get it. If not then you can buy the least expensive housing and harvest the Anti Drain Valve from it like I did for my LR2. For the Volvo I have the later style and I just replaced the whole assembly.

Good luck

Paul

p_gill: I've just replace the entire engine oil cooler and filter assembly with a new part from the agents. The original design with the external pipe was superseded by the version without the pipe, so that's what I now have. I would assume that since it came complete from LR that the necessary bits are inside.
One of your pictures shows a housing on the gearbox-side of the head with a pipe coming out of it. On my car, there's a bit of an oil leak in that area - seeping, not dripping.
I'll get the car onto the diagnostic machine next week. Until then, I have borrowed a little 1400 to get around, so at least I'm saving some fuel!

merlinj79 wrote:

On the 3.2, he'd have to drill a port somewhere... it has no direct oil pressure sensor. It interpolates oil pressure from the valve timing (which is actuated by oil pressure).

I would never drive any car with the oil light on, I'd pull over immediately and shut down.

My owners manual (2008 North America) says use 5W30 for all conditions, personally I wouldn't go any lighter than that unless it was *really* cold. My car sees temps between 25*F and 110*F, with trailer towing in the mountains in the summer heat.

These days Mfgs will spec lighter oil to get better fuel economy, which they need to meet regulatory requirements... even though a heavier oil might well be better for engine longevity. Too heavy is bad of course, but it seems both LR and Volvo started to spec lighter oil after about 2010. Maybe they modified the engine for that? Maybe not?

But an oil pressure light is a definite hint that your oil might be too thin.

GarethC wrote:

p_gill: I've just replace the entire engine oil cooler and filter assembly with a new part from the agents......

I wasn't sure if you replaced item #8 or the entire assembly #1

you made the right choice





As for the oil pressure

Volvo thinks that there is a bolt that you can remove to measure pressure

I haven't verified that this bolt exists on my LR2 or S80





https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/v...mp;t=94746

Good luck

Paul

[quote="merlinj79"]

merlinj79 wrote:

Why did you choose the 0W40, vice 5W30?

I rarely start below 50 *F, so not sure about 0W.

For my hot, mountain driving 40 is presumably better than 30.

Don't want to get into an oil debate by any means, that's almost as bad as politics or religion haha. Was just interested in your thinking since it's been pretty useful over the years filling in the gaps in JLR's lack of maintenance schedule.

My buddy gave me this from his XC90 manual, it does recommend 0W30 or 0W40 for severe conditions, which I do occasionally (hot, mountains, towing... usually all three at once).

Merlin,

I avoid talking about Motor Oil on FREEL2 because most of the owners here are using Diesel.

For my $$$ I will not use a Motor Oil that is designed for Petrol and Diesel. The needs are different between these two types of Engines and developing a Motor Oil that will work for both means that it is not optimized for either. Note: the difference is in the additive package not the base stock.

I do like what Mercedes did to combat sludge. The problem only occurred in the US not in Europe because in Europe the Owner uses the Oil that the manufacturer recommends. In the US the Owner goes to quick lube and buys the cheapest crap oil that money can buy. Mercedes specified extended oil changes and the low quality oil from quick lube couldn't last without forming sludge. After a class action Law Suit Mercedes created the MB 229.3 spec and then replaced it with the MB 229.5 spec. Note: the equivalent Diesel spec is MB 229.51.

The nice thing about the spec is that it means that the oil has passed the testing requirements. This doesn't mean that an oil that is not listed is bad it only means that it hasn't been tested.


With that in mind I would prefer not to have to spend $20 a quart which is why I use Mobil 1 FS 0W40

I can typically find it for less than $5 per quart.


If a motor oil is on the list I would use it without hesitation

https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/229.5_en.html

Some examples of Oils available in the US
8100 X-cess MOTUL SAE 5W40
AMSOIL EUROPEAN CAR FORMULA CLASSIC SAE 5W-40
Castrol Edge 0W-40 A3/B4 (I need to check this one to be sure that we can get it)
LIQUI MOLY 5W-30 Leichtlauf High Tech LL
Mobil 1 FS 0W-40
Pennzoil Platinum Euro
Quaker State Euro Full Synthetic


But I would make sure that its not on the MB 229.51 Diesel approval page (same link as above just switch to 229.51)

Let me give an example
AMSOIL EUROPEAN CAR FORMULA CLASSIC SAE 5W-40 MB 229.5 absolutely no problem, without hesitation
AMSOIL EUROPEAN CAR FORMULA 5W40 MB 229.51 I'm not using this one, unless it is an emergency


Real life example

2008 LR2 3.2 - Mobil 1 0W40 since new (super clean doesn't weep oil, brake booster not rebuilt)

2010 S80 3.2 - unknown oil (Brake booster o ring failed, not clean but the original owner saved a few Pence)


2010 S80 as purchased in 2018

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge