Still trying to resolve this starting issue.
Engine cranks over OK, no problem with the battery or starter motor.
Engine sometimes has to crank for several seconds before it will fire up. Then lots of white smoke (assume unburnt diesel) engine then runs fine, no issues. Even when warm it appears to crank longer than it used do.

There are 3 codes in the Power Control Module
P061B-81 Internal control module torque calculation performance.
P164C-00 Internal control module start stop performance.
P0480-00 Fan 1 control circuit.

The last one has something to do with the AC which does not appear to working correctly and is noisy. Think it needs a re gas.
Second one obviously the start stop system which is not working, don't know if it is related.
The first one I have no Idea.

The codes were read with an Autel AP200 which I find easier to use than SDD and is good for live data.

One thing I did find was the fuel rail did not hold its pressure after the engine was switched off. No pressure at cold, assume OK. Start car, rail pressur approx 3611psi at idle. Turn off the engine and pressure has gone within a couple of seconds.

Would appreciate any input.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Try replacing the crank and camshaft sensors. The Crank one is a 10 minute job so go first with this one, the Cam takes a bit longer but at about £20-£25 each it's worth doing and I had an issue with my 2007 F2 taking ages to start and doing a lot of starting then immediately stopping. Mine now starts every time, on the button, and seems to start quicker after I replaced both these sensors.

Hi Splatman
Sorry for the late reply.
I have already replaced all the sensors.
Think its possibly an air starvation issue. I have just removed the throttle body again to check it is operating correctly.
Before key goes in, throttle flat open. Key in and set ignition to position two, throttle flap still open. Turn off ignition, throttle flap closes for several seconds before opening again on shut down.
So that's OK then.
Going to take out the intake manifold next and see if there is an issue with swirl flaps. Car is eleven years old so probably needs to be removed anyway. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Just asking ................. Is the CSS a good one. I replaced my one as a matter of course (nothing wrong with it). The new one didn't work so I had to put the old one back in order to get the engine to fire up. A local independent told me they only use genuine ones because of the prior problems.

I assume the CSS is the Camshaft sensor.
As far as I know it is a good one, it's on the list of suitable on the forum here. Surely if the sensor was faulty it would not start at all. for the price I can always get another one and try. Thing is I am now in the middle of stripping out the inlet manifold. Because of the age of the car I think it would be a good idea to remove the swirl flaps. I might even have another go at removing the EGR valve. Tried last year and gave up, too difficult, but I can see a bit better access now. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Manifold out, swirl flaps out all cleaned and put back.
Runs a lot better but still does not start as well as it should.
I'm not going to add anything else to this post as no one is interested. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

I wouldn’t say that no one is interested. Perhaps, like me, they have nothing useful to add. I tend to read most of the new posts daily and if I feel that a comment or nugget of information I’ve picked up would be useful I’ll pass it on. I don’t add comments just to raise my post count.
So where is the fuel pressure going? Is it supposed to stay high? As it’s generated by the camshaft driven high pressure fuel pump it should go high when the engine is cranked. Excess fuel that doesn’t get injected goes back to the fuel tank. Could the fuel from the rail be leaking past a faulty injector. Too much fuel can be as much of a problem as too little fuel.

I've just had a starting problem sorted. It was a fuel problem, when the mechanic delved into it it was the fuel pressure control valve, which sits between the fuel rail and the high pressure pump.

Much cheaper than the suspected pump problem.

Now, it doesn't start instantly like it used to so I'm guessing there's a related problem - but it's going.

Maybe something similar? Although my fault codes were completely different. Painful, isn't it. MY11 SD4 SE Auto

Hi Bob

Thanks for the interest.
Think you are correct that it is now a fuel issue. I did have an issues with air entering the system at the filter connections. I am trying some PTFE tape on the spigots to see if that helps to seal the 'O' rings. A leak off test could be my next step.

ozjeff62

Thanks for your comments,
I'll have to look into the fuel pressure control valve.
I think my issue could be fuel dropping back over night, hence the extra cranking to build up pressure.
Most of my codes have now gone. I still have one relating to the fan control module and one for the stop start system but I don't think they are a priority at the moment.
Once the car starts I have no running issues, no misfire or hesitation, so fuel delivery once going does not appear to be an issue. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

gasman wrote:

Manifold out, swirl flaps out all cleaned and put back.
Runs a lot better but still does not start as well as it should.
I'm not going to add anything else to this post as no one is interested.

Sorry Gasman, but I've not yet! had this sort of issue so cannot really comment,
I'm am interested and hoping you get it sorted soon, I'm sure sometime in the future
I will be glad I've followed your post.
Good luck Dave  DAVE.

Thanks Dave.

I'll keep it updated.
I hope you don't get theses issues as they are a pain to diagnose. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

gasman wrote:

Hi Bob

Thanks for the interest.
Think you are correct that it is now a fuel issue. I did have an issues with air entering the system at the filter connections. I am trying some PTFE tape on the spigots to see if that helps to seal the 'O' rings. A leak off test could be my next step.

ozjeff62

Thanks for your comments,
I'll have to look into the fuel pressure control valve.
I think my issue could be fuel dropping back over night, hence the extra cranking to build up pressure.
Most of my codes have now gone. I still have one relating to the fan control module and one for the stop start system but I don't think they are a priority at the moment.
Once the car starts I have no running issues, no misfire or hesitation, so fuel delivery once going does not appear to be an issue.

Thanks again Nodge.

At the moment I am still looking for air ingress.

I hear what you say regards wear in some components but I don't think that will be an issue in my case. Although the car is over 11 years old, it still has less than 65000 miles on the clock. Regardless of distance travelled it has always had a full service every year. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

At 65k, it's hardly run in, so I doubt engine or pump wear is the issue.
Air in the fuel system could be the issue. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Hello gasman, been thinking about your starting problem, a couple of the guys mention the fuel system, with mine a couple of years ago I did have a long cranking no start issue and I thought to put a main dealer fuel filter on it, but beforehand while the engine was running and me tinkering around not wanting to do the filter change I noticed that on the clear fuel pipes near where they neatly bend towards the fuel injection pump I saw air bubbles in the pipes with the engine running which is after the filter. I was able to clear the bubbles but cannot remember how I did it and didn’t fit the filter and kept it for a later date, this fixed my long crank no start issue. Not sure where or how the bubbles got there in the first place.

Or the fuel pressure is leaking off, as the guys mentioned? I remember back in the Mercedes service bay days we were able to fit an inline fuel gauge on some V8’s where in a morning very poor starting where fuel pressure had to be built up for the engine to start after some time the starter motor started to burn with the long cranks, we also noticed they were fine starting in the daytime but the initial morning start was a with the inline gauge you could monitor fuel pressure leakage which turned out to be a batch of pressure valves within the pump. This fixed the fault.

To note there is a nylon protection covering on the plastic pipes this can be slid back to view the clear fuel pipes.