Evening guys,

Have an issue with coolant loss. Freelander 2 2.2 Diesel, 2010 with roughly 125k on the clock.

No externals leaks, mechanic has been all over the engine bay and there is no evidence of leaking what so ever. Pressure test when cold and hot, no pressure loss.

No mayo in the engine, oil level doesn't appear to be increasing, she is holding a steady temperature.

Open to suggestions as to what else to try? Any ideas on what to do and check?

How much coolant is it loosing?

Has the pressure cap been replaced, as a matter of course? Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

She's gone from Max to "low coolant level" indicator in a couple of hundred miles.

I've replenished the coolant back to max and I'm going to take her out for a long run tomorrow to see is it drops again. (One option is whether the previous owner(s) ran her to low and when I was "refilling" I trapped air in the system which has now bled through) so I'll get a measure.

Plus I will recheck the oil again and see if the level increases.

Why replace the cap...is there something relevant to the cap?

It can take some time to get all the air out of an empty or partially emptied system. My own TD4 needed a couple of top ups, after I rebuilt the engine. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Last edited by Nodge68 on 24th Feb 2021 11:46 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Hello Hoopyfrood, With reference to your coolant loss I have experienced the same over the years including the fl2s early months when took delivery, every service upto 105000 I have always complained about coolant loss, the dealer although hopeless couldn’t find or locate the leak, well same miles as yours it must be going somewhere until the day I bucked up courage and replaced the cambelt and water pump. Found my coolant loss at the water pump, not sure what the item is but the pump casing has a sort of core plug, not the drain plug but this plug,as it’s pressed into the case and it’s tight. It’s a pity as only a month ago I binned the pump as I could have shown you. Anyway the plug showed a leak and quite a leak too, where the leak was in relation to the crankcase as coolant always leaves a trail there was a clear path of white dust/line behind the crankshaft pulley but not near it for it to fling into view.

So if you have done everything you can think of I would say it’s this plug on the pump case.

Just thought I should share this with you

Regards

Davyboy.

Sorry forgot to mention since the belt and pump replacement I have never had to top up the coolant, I keep mine about 5mm above the lower level in the tank, never on the full mark as touring Switzerland with a caravan two years ago the engine is under a lot of stress with the outside temp being 36-42 degrees C. Touring once upon a time.

Hoopyfrood wrote:

Why replace the cap...is there something relevant to the cap?

Egr?

I had the mystery of disappearing coolant too a couple of years back. Eventually discovered it was a broken EGR exhaust cooler. the coolant just dropped into the exhaust and away it disappeared...

Hi everyone,

Having some trouble with our 2008 FL2 HSE

Test centre won’t test as losing coolant fast and smoking - he was to busy to investigate but advised possibly HGF.

I’ve since been told otherwise and to investigate the EGR cooler

Symptoms
Eml appeared but not constantly on.
No heat in cabin via vents
Smokes randomly not every time ran
Quick coolant loss

- no change in drive performance
- no milky oil / cap
- no loss in power

Any advice before next garage spend appreciated

Thanks for reading

Unlikely to be the HG, but the EGR is a possible cause for coolant loss. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

We had a slight coolant loss on our Grey FL2. The engine locked up, and when I took it out of the car found the water pump gasket had a very small leak, hence the slow drop in water level. A new gasket with a thin film of Hylomar Sealant replaced it.

Also a replacement coolant pump drain plug isn't always tight, mine wasn't tight in my Gates kit, which I didn't notice straight away, and I did loose a small amount of coolant. Whilst I was replacing the cylinder head, I noticed a small drip of coolant on the pump drain plug, which was loose when I put an Allen key in it.
Mine hasn't lost a drop of coolant since replacing the head last November. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Mine had a slow leak from the radiator rotting out. It wasn’t possible to spot the leak as it was on the front side of the rad and coolant loss was minimal. It needed topping up from lower to upper mark every couple of hundred miles.

Eventually it got worse and I had a coolant smell from the engine bay when engine was hot and in standing traffic. I still couldn’t see the leak until I took the front end off and replaced the rad which had rotten out due to leaves and feathers.

Replacement rad came from Poland and was really cheap, turned up and didn’t seem any different to OEM rad. Job wasn’t difficult.

Nodge68 wrote:

Also a replacement coolant pump drain plug isn't always tight, mine wasn't tight in my Gates kit, which I didn't notice straight away, and I did loose a small amount of coolant. Whilst I was replacing the cylinder head, I noticed a small drip of coolant on the pump drain plug, which was loose when I put an Allen key in it.
Mine hasn't lost a drop of coolant since replacing the head last November.