Hi all.

I’ve bought a Freelander 2 2007 TD4 SE of my own after using a work one on and off, but recently found I was stalling and struggling to slowly increase the revs or keep the revs at a constant 2000rpm (as an example). At first I thought it was just me not giving it enough revs and stalling but slowly realised it wasn’t me (thankfully), much to the amusement of the misses.

So for example if I am at a standstill and then slowly press the throttle it doesn’t do much, but then the revs start to go up reasonably quickly, but say I wanted to hold the revs at 1500-2000rpm it just shoots above that all the way to 3-4000rpm. I can some times get it right if I make micro adjustments but it’s so triggered that the slightest movement and it either drops the rpm or shoots up. I don’t get this when it’s at higher revs.

Any ideas on where to look first?

Many thanks

Nowhere. The joy of electronically controlled engine.
If it works properly when driving, stay cool and enjoy the ride.

Haha I like it. So far enjoying the freelander. What a machine.

Might be a few people around here with a spare throttle sensor you could try was my first thought... Had something similar on last car (Mitsubishi).

Ye after a bit of digging last night I saw a pattern with some posts about erratic throttle, even though it’s not erratic, it’s possibly that. The in-laws have a freelander 2 2009 which I can try out a sensor from there.

Cheers

let us know how you get on -always good to learn Jules

Will do. Got the fl2 in for diagnostics on Monday.

So... had all the diagnostics and all fixed.

When they ran the tests it came back with a load of errors (30+), they cleared the errors and took it for a spin and all was working as it should have been.

The explanation
When I bought the FL2 last week it looked like it had been standing for a while which had drained the battery at some point. The errors were consistent with a dead battery and all the bus signals having a meltdown not being able to connect to each other and then having a booster pack to bring it back to life before I got there. One of the errors that popped up was that the battery voltage was low and apparently FL2's are very particular about the amount of voltage it gets, with any drop in voltage throwing up errors.

Anyway... Cleared the errors and done a few tests to check the system is hunky-dory and all works perfectly didn't stall once on the way home!

Thanks for getting back to us with the totally plausible explanation. I’d get the battery on a smart charger and give it a charge, preferably a charger that can reverse any sulphation that has taken place while it was left discharged. I’d also check its age as lead acid batteries have a limited life, especially on our FL2.
A tip that sometimes works on a cold day is to start the electronics without starting the car by pressing the start button without pressing the brake or clutch. This gives the various modules glo plugs and pumps time to start before you add the load of the starter motor.

Cheers BossBob.

Took the FL2 out this afternoon and it’s strange it runs perfectly now.

Ah, it was only 2 days ago I figured out that I can press the start button without the clutch to turn things on haha.

Cheers

Nice to here you got it sorted without too much trouble.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.