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MRRover75



Member Since: 13 Jan 2017
Location: Sandnes
Posts: 326

Norway 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Manual Tambora Flame
My Rear Diff DIY Repair

Disclamer - This thread shall function as an inspiration/guide/warning to other forum members. This thread does only show how I decided to perform this operation and I take no responsibility for others that will try to use this information on their own projects in any ways!

Hi all,

Several km`s has gone since I replaced my worn rear diff with a used Evoque diff, ref thread https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic28803.html

In my experience, happiness does not last forever and the Evoque diff seems to develop a slight humming/rumbling sound similar to what I had with the old diff. Thinking of a DIY repair of the old diff has been in my mind for a long time as it is basically a new bearing that is needed to put it back to service. I have access to most standard mechanical tools and workshop equipment through my work and I have several years of experience within industrial mechanical design and work. Performing the job according to LR`s own procedure for the “low level” repair seems do-able but the showstopper is the need for the special tools needed for retaining the input shaft while undoing and tightening the bearing retainer nut. Making a tool for the retainer nut is not hard, but sourcing a splined socket for the input shaft is worse. I have seen a website where a Russian mechanic has made this one from a clutch plate from a 2.5 V6 mondeo. Its an option if you have one accessible. I have a Haldex Gen.4 unit laying around which came with the Evoque diff. I decided to strip this one to use the spline connection for making the tool. So here we go:

The retainer tool for the lock nut was made by cutting of the drive end from a 42mm 12 point socket. The socket was welded into a piece of tube. A set of ears was welded onto the other end of the tube and drilled to fit two of the M8 bores in the diff casing. Some pics:



The splined socket for the input shaft was made by cutting out the internal spline from the old Haldex unit, then prepared in a lathe before for welding together with a socket with ½” drive:

Click image to enlarge


Then the fun begins 😊 The diff casing was opened and crown wheel removed. I could clearly see metal particles in the oil inside the diff casing, probably from the bearing on the input shaft:



The input shaft seal was removed by punching a hole in its end face and put a large self tapping screw into it. The seal was then leveled out using the claw on the end of a crowbar/hammer resting against the diff casing with a piece of wood in between. The retainer nut was the accessible Rotating the input shaft without the other internals clearly confirm that its bearing(s) are worn. A “knurly” feel and sound was noticed when rotating the shaft by hand:



Click image to enlarge


Removing the retainer nut was not easy. It did not break loose on the first attempts with a 0,5m long breaker bar. I was 100% sure that I placed the torque in the correct direction. (nut locked, shaft rotated clockwise). I heated up the nut using a small torch and then did a new attempt. Success!! The nut was removed and the input shaft was then removed from the casing by tapping it down with a soft headed hammer:

Click image to enlarge


At this stage I decided to replace both bearings on the input shaft only and leave the bearings on the crownwheel alone. The bearings are now put on order and I have to proceed with removing the outer race for both bearings and the inner bearing on the input shaft.

To be continued....

Last edited by MRRover75 on 9th Aug 2017 5:44 am. Edited 3 times in total

Post #328756 8th Aug 2017 11:59 am
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p_gill



Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1236

United States 2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

MRRover75,

That is an awesome DIY Bow down

Thanks for sharing

Paul

PS if "Project Binky" has an opening I think your ready

Post #328784 8th Aug 2017 9:13 pm
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MRRover75



Member Since: 13 Jan 2017
Location: Sandnes
Posts: 326

Norway 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Manual Tambora Flame

Hi all, thanks for the feedback.

Not to much done yesterday, but I had some time to do some inspection. Here is a picture of the input shaft with its bearings. You can also see the crush-spacer between the bearings. As you can see, there is no direct mechanical locking features on the retainer nut. I assume the main idea with the crush-spacer is that the "crush load"/compression placed between the bearings inner races under tightening will be sufficient to make the nut not came loose under operation. The new nut has also thread locker pre-applied:

Click image to enlarge


I noted that SKF bearings was fitted to the shaft. Paying closer attention to the outer bearing, its outer race seems fine. After removing the roller cage from the inner race revealed damage as seen in this picture. No doubt where the noise came from:

Click image to enlarge


I did the same for the larger inner bearing, and this seems smooth:



Based on these observations, it could be discussed if it is necessary to replace the inner bearing or not. The LR low-level repair procedure only replaces the small outer bearing, while many will claim its best to replace all when first opening the diff. I will do both bearings on the input shaft, but leave the bearings on the crown wheel alone so I do not disturb any clearance set-up on that one (if it is adjustable??)

So, Now new input shaft bearings are needed. The correct bearing designation for the small outer bearing is 30206. Looking into the manufacturers tables shows their specified load ratings for this bearing, which looks like this:

SKF - Cr=40200N, C0r=44000N
NTN - Cr=43500N, C0r=48000N
FAG - Cr=43500N, C0r=48000N
Timken - Cr=49300N, C0r=51800N

No need to go into detail what these numbers mean, but higher values is better. What surprises me, is that SKF has the lowest load rating of these premium bearing manufacturers. I have a FAG bearing available on my shelf which I planned to use here, but I decided to order a Timken bearing instead as this one seems to be the thougest option available for my repair.

Click image to enlarge

Post #328788 9th Aug 2017 5:23 am
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SYFL2



Member Since: 16 Jun 2012
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 2594

2007 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

Excellent how to,it's way beyond my capabilities but it will help lots of people.

Post #328792 9th Aug 2017 6:49 am
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MRRover75



Member Since: 13 Jan 2017
Location: Sandnes
Posts: 326

Norway 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Manual Tambora Flame

Hi,

Hope so Smile . I guess this will be beyond the capabilities of many DIY-ers, but this will hopefully shed some light over many of the questions raised regarding the diff issue.
As our cars are getting older, I guess we will mainly see more DIY operations done on our cars and this is a great forum to share the experience.
When I am done with the work, I will gladly borrow out my special tools to other DIY-ers agianst a depositum and shipping costs. But first, need to see how this ends up Very Happy

Post #328795 9th Aug 2017 7:12 am
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Yorky Bob



Member Since: 28 Apr 2015
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 4561

United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Firenze Red

Interesting write up and full marks. Thumbs Up

Using a torque wrench set (and calibrated) correctly the collapsible spacer should set the end float on the pinion components on refit. Depending on miles done while damaged one could expect some premature wear on the crown wheel / pinion faces so a increase in diff whine may result when compared to new unit.

Shimming / adjusting the crown wheel and pinion running face tolerance is a challenge and would be rarely done these days with exchange unit being the norm.

I seem to recall using (and I can only call it) engineering carbon paper between the teeth mating surfaces to ensure they fully met after setting the end float clearance. (anyone know what that ink paper was called). FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Post #328799 9th Aug 2017 8:06 am
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dorsetfreelander



Member Since: 20 Jul 2013
Location: Dorset
Posts: 4354

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 XS Auto Loire Blue

Very impressive and well done. I overhauled a Ford Escort gearbox back in the early 70's and all of the information to do it was in the Haynes (and other) manual at the time. Sadly, most people rarely attempt this sort of job nowadays and the manuals just say that it's beyond the scope of the DIY-er which puts people off even trying. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Post #328801 9th Aug 2017 8:11 am
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jules



Member Since: 13 Dec 2007
Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire
Posts: 5013

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Firenze Red

Haynes manuals ain't what they used to be.

Just bought a latest Haynes for the FL2 (inc 64 plate) - hard back cover is gone.

Also the detailed exploded diagrams at the beginning of each chapter which was often where you would start reading. Just a short description and a lot of B&W pics instead , some quite poor contrasted and fuzzy and some clearly generic.

Considering it supposedly covered upto 64 plate it doesnt mention the SD4 or electric parking brake.

Frankly I was disappointed. There are CDROMs on ebay - they also dont tend to cover the latest models but the diagrams are much better and have coloured highlights. Jules

Post #328829 9th Aug 2017 3:56 pm
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p_gill



Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1236

United States 2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

MrRover 75,

You wrote: "In my experience, happiness does not last forever and the Evoque diff seems to develop a slight humming/rumbling sound similar to what I had with the old diff"

I am hesitant to write this because I don't want to distract you in any way from the rebuild but I did want to share my experience.

I also had some humming/rumbling at about 50,000 miles.

Now I am at 110,000 miles and my differential is quiet. (a different thread documents this and you are on that thread as well)

To significantly reduce (nearly eliminate) the humming I switched to a different gear oil.

Here is a white paper that discusses different gear lubes

http://www.goodsenseoil.com/G2457-GearOilWhitePaper.pdf

Based on that white paper I concluded that the anti wear properties of the gear oils can vary greatly.

I didn't buy any of the Gear Oil's in the white paper, instead I bought a gear oil for Heavy Duty trucks.

Mobil Delvac 1™ Gear Oil

Quote from Mobil "This product is designed for use in heavy-duty drivetrains that require gear lubricants with excellent load-carrying capability and where extreme pressures and shock loading are expected."

I am not suggesting that this product is in some way superior and this it is the only solution. It is just that it was engineered for a different application.

And in my case this oil and and a magnet to collect the metal particles have made all the difference.

Note: it may be hard to find Mobil 1 Delvac where you live if you are looking for something equivlent then another gear oil that meets one or both the following specifications should be fine.

SCANIA STO 2:0 A
SCANIA STO 2:0 A FS

In my case this change has allowed me to go another 60,000 miles without repairing the pinion bearing and I am nearly certain that my bearing is worn.

When I rebuild mine I'll take pictures and post it here (but first you need to finish teaching me how to rebuild it)

I greatly appreciate your effort to document this DIY

Happy Motoring

Paul

Post #328839 9th Aug 2017 6:30 pm
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iain cooper



Member Since: 27 Aug 2007
Location: north of Glasgow
Posts: 1989

Scotland 2009 Freelander 2 TD4_e HSE Manual Lago Grey

MRRover75,

great write up and pictures, thanks

would certainly suggest that regular diff oil changes could be beneficial ?

Iain

Post #328857 10th Aug 2017 8:08 am
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Lightwater



Member Since: 21 Aug 2014
Location: Sydney Northern Beaches
Posts: 4906

Ukraine 2013 Freelander 2 2.0T SE Auto Fuji White

well done! Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

Post #328858 10th Aug 2017 8:20 am
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MRRover75



Member Since: 13 Jan 2017
Location: Sandnes
Posts: 326

Norway 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Manual Tambora Flame

Hi all,

Thanks for the feedback. No need to say that frequent oil changes probably will help improving the life of the diff. I guess much can be discussed there regarding frequency and oil quality/type.

Not much done yesterday. I am still waiting for the new bearings.
I did remove the inner race on the input shaft. This was done in a known way, same as often done when removing an inner race of a wheel bearing from its spindle. The inner race was cut with a grinder as much as possible, then the ring was split with a cold chisel in the grinded groove. The race could then be easily pulled of the shaft. Its important to not grind through the inner race when doing this operation:

Click image to enlarge


Click image to enlarge

Post #328865 10th Aug 2017 9:24 am
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Yorky Bob



Member Since: 28 Apr 2015
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 4561

United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Firenze Red

Can you throw up a couple of Macro shots of the pinion teeth, would be interested to see what they look like. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Post #328881 10th Aug 2017 12:36 pm
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de1979



Member Since: 25 Sep 2014
Location: UK
Posts: 166

England 

Seen a few of the nose bearings now and they all look identical. Shame it's never been nailed down as to a cause. Not to mix up threads but this is what worries me about the Haldex "dink" noise I and many others get when setting off. Land Rover blame the bearing failure on the way the Haldex applies torque from standstill and it certainly sounds and feels like there's some jolting going on. Love to know if the two things are related. Bell on the other hand say the bearing is too small, and no-one seems to really blame the oil.

Very interested in what you have to say about the different oil Paul Gill. Would you say this is the UK equivalent?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00307...QVK90UAMQF
I wonder if putting some 80w90 back in would make your noise return?

Spec says "where extreme pressures and shock loading are expected" - seems to fit with what Land Rover say!

Post #328883 10th Aug 2017 2:55 pm
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MRRover75



Member Since: 13 Jan 2017
Location: Sandnes
Posts: 326

Norway 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Manual Tambora Flame

Yorky Bob wrote:
Can you throw up a couple of Macro shots of the pinion teeth, would be interested to see what they look like.


Hi Bob,

Here you go:

Click image to enlarge


Click image to enlarge

Post #328900 10th Aug 2017 7:46 pm
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