Hi - I'm trying to remove the i6 injector rail so I can get the inlet manifold out and remove the alternator. I've removed the 3 bolts holding the rail in but it's not coming out. What the best method please?

That's a difficult question to answer

The best solution is to leave the injectors in place and remove the other items needed to remove the intake manifold.

Start here

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32245.html

Good luck

Paul

Thanks Paul - that's very helpful. I managed to get the injectors out but damaged the rail clamping bracket in the process. Looks like it can be restored at no cost. But most helpful is the fact that the bleed pipe can be removed using a hex key.
Thank you very much for your help - great pics and diagrams!
Chris

Chris,

Welcome to Freel2

I really like my LR2 and this site makes me like it even more.

I liked the engine enough that I bought a S80 Volvo with the same 3.2

2008 LR2 3.2 (Owned since new)

2010 S80 3.2 (Purchased used two years ago)

The 3.2 only sold in small numbers in the UK, so you may need to look at the Volvo forums for engine specific information.

Here is my S80 on a very friendly Volvo forum

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/v...mp;t=87687

And here is my thread on Freel2 for things to look after on an older 3.2

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32504.html

Good luck

Paul

PS the Freel2 3.2 is a wonderful vehicle if you are proactive with the maintenance.

Thanks again Paul,

I've made good progress but stumped with removing the bleed port which is locked solid. I don't trust the hex hole to take all the torque that's needed to shift it. I've tried thumping it with a hammer to no avail. Do you have any tips? Would a blow torch on the port help? Hopefully the aluminium head will expand more than the steel port?
Any ideas most welcome!

Thanks, Chris

Chris,

Heat will help. Start there.

If you damage the port then buy a replacement from Volvo

The Volvo part number is 31293434

Note: you may need a Loctite that is rated to seal against Hot Ethylene Glycol.

Loctite 567 is what I have on the shelf (but there are other products that would work as well)





You don't need much 1 Oz will likely be enough for 20 engines.

Here is the tool I would use if the Hex drive were to fail.

I happen to have one of these which is why I would use it.





Good luck

Paul

Thanks Paul - If I knew where you lived, I'd move in next door! I'll give it some heat tomorrow and a bit more oomph knowing I can get the Volvo part. Super helpful - thanks again, Chris

Chris,

If you find yourself in San Jose California let me know and I'll buy you a beer


Looking at a picture of the Volvo part the Loctite is pre applied

Green arrow - Loctite (I can't say for certain if this is enough Loctite to seal the threads)

Purple zone - damage here won't cause a leak

Red Zone - the mating connector has an O-ring that seals on this surface





Second option for removal


Note: you will need a small pipe wrench (I don't think I own one that small)




Good luck

Paul

Chris,

Did you successfully remove the pipe?

If yes then how?

Take care

Paul

Hi Paul - got it out yesterday. I bought a stud extractor (identical to the one in your pic) but not enough clearance. So lashed up a pipe wrench, clamping the handles and whacked it with a hammer - job done. I also managed to get the manifold out thanks to your diagrams and Youtube. The alternator bolts are out and today I will remove it if it stops raining! Hoping to fix the alternator but may have to replace it. Your info was invaluable! Chris

Chris,

That's great news.

Post some pictures if you get a chance.

If you are rebuilding the Alternator don't forget that the pulley has a overdrive clutch in in and you will need a special tool to remove it.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic33867.html

Also to rebuild it you will need to replace the brushes and rectifier. (and the bearings should be replaced as well)


For my S80 3.2 (same engine) the previous owner had the alternator replaced.

Bosch calls it Re-Manufactured (I'd call it a proper rebuild)

BOSCH AL0870X {#36012382, LR031223}

Note: the LR part number next to the Volvo part number

It works very well and I wouldn't hesitate to buy the AL0870X.



Don't forget to replace the tube that connects to the port that you removed.

The O-ring hidden in the connector doesn't like to seal if you remove it. (if it leaks coolant it drips on the Alternator and it breaks the Alternator that you just replaced)

LR019341

If I was changing the alternator I would also replace the thermostat and the small hose and o-ring.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32245.html


Good luck

Paul

Hi Paul,

The alternator has gone off for a rebuild.

Here's the pipe wrench:



Now there is a question over the injectors. They were locked in solid and 2 stayed in, bending the injectors rail retaining bracket in the process:



I've straightened the bracket out and the rail side of things look ok.

If there were o-rings on the injectors, they are still in the head injector holes?



How would you proceed from here? Apply a little grease (lithium?) and put them straight back in?

Thanks, Chris
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Chris,

Use a suitable pick tool and pull out the O-rings.

Then put a rag in the intake port and use some carburetor cleaner to clean the hole for the injector.

I would get new O-rings but if you want to reuse them then just soak them in Petrol for a few hours and then install.


BTW - that pipe wrench is a classic

Excellent pics

Thanks

Paul

OK - thanks Paul. I now have some carb cleaner (Toluene). In the meantime, should I use Loctite on the alternator bolts, or just do them up nice and tight?
Chris

Chris,

Have you downloaded the workshop manual?

Check the Torque spec and use that if you have a torque wrench.

If you have Loctite handy it won't hurt to use a little.

I just bolted mine up with no Loctite when I replaced the clutch pulley.



The bolts are long with a long clamped length.


Without diving into the mechanical engineering of stress vs. strain.

I will say the following "a long clamped length is less likely to lose its clamping force due to vibration and thermal cycling."

Or if you prefer it will lose its clamping force more slowly (is actually the more correct statement)


Take care

Paul

PS I am also helping a friend from Dallas and he is replacing his injectors, post picture and any tips because he is following this thread.