Hello All,

First post on here and looking for some advice/assistance/help.

I have a MY15 SE which didn't come with electric seats and I was finding the lack of lumbar support painful so bought a 2nd hand drivers one off eBay and fitted it myself (the loom was already present).

This flagged up an Airbag light so I purchased a Mongoose Pro (clone) cable and SDD to read the DTC's to see what if anything I could do. SDD flagged that the VIN of the DSM (Drivers Seat Module) was incorrect.

I connected a Garage/Heavy-Duty 95A Battery Charger/Starter and decided to run the update module.

Everything in SDD was green (comms/battery/network etc.) and I Ran the module (note this was NOT in engineering mode). All was progressing OK and the process completed but at the end (after pressing the Stop/Start button as instructed for the dozenth time) the dash/instrument cluster flashed and beeped 3 times and shut down.

Tried the Key Fob - nothing. Tried the start button - nothing. Checked battery voltage - 12.6V. Disconnected battery for 10 mins and re-connected - nothing. Interior lights don't even come on when I open the doors...even when I re-connect the Charger/Starter or jump across from the battery on our (ahem) Jeep Patriot.

Unfortunately I'd opened the drivers window in-case I locked myself out during the process but now can't wind the windows up...had to put some Tarp over the entire side of the car!

We have a local private Land Rover garage (not-Stealership) who'd probably be able to help but with the Electronic Parking Brake and Steering Lock stuck on I've no idea how I could get it there...even if I called my Home-Start/Recovery service.

So yeah. Help!

I need to know:
- have I bricked it?
- can I un-brick it?
- how to get the window up without power?
- how to release the EPB without power (is there a cable release?)
- how to release the steering lock without power?
- could it just be a fuse?

I know this is a lot to ask for a first post but I'm having a breakdown here

Thanks
Unbeliever.

You can't change the VIN in the DSM with SDD.
But then you also don't need to, the DSM works fine without the correct VIN which begs the question, why did you try to change it? Just because it flagged as a DTC?

Sounds like the IMMO is stuffed. I suspect a battery off and leave it 20 minutes will revive the car.

Did you transfer the seatbelt pretensioner off the old seat? Likely to be the cause of the ABS lamp, but you don't mention what DTCs where in the SRS ecu.

Hi Vanny, thanks for the quick reply.

Didn't realise you couldn't change the VIN of the DSM...you're correct in assuming I tried to change it just because it flagged as a DTC I was just following the SDD Recommended notes.

I didn't transfer the seatbelt pre-tensioner...should I have? Did a bit research on here before I changed the seat and don't remember reading about that but that's probably me not being thorough enough.

Sorry for not posting the DTC's. There were some HVAC ones from 2000 miles ago but the recent ones (since the seat change) are:

DSM U0140-00 Lost communication with body control module
DSM U3002-81 Vehicle Identification Number - Invalid serial data received
RCM B0070-13 Driver Seatbelt Pretensioner “A” Deployment Control: Circuit Open

I've now disconnected the battery and will leave off overnight. Probably a good idea with only a piece of plastic over the drivers door window anyway!

Not too familiar with the acronyms yet but am assuming the IMMO is the immobiliser ECU?

What I don't get is why when I open the door the interior lights don't even come on?

Thanks.

When you insert the key, is there any activity? Sounds? Clicks?

Too many things are off... Can you measure some voltages across different things on the car?
I suppose you've already checked all fuses, in all 3 places. Engine, Passenger feet, Boot.
Don't forget the 60A fuses on the engine bay. They can be easily missed because they are under some covers.

Window can be raised by dismantling the door card and powering the motor directly, after you disconnect it's connector. The two thick wires.

Cheers Alex.

It's an MY15 so no key to insert. Works via. a proximity sensor. There are no noises/clicks/lights when I press the key buttons. There weren't even any when I reconnected the battery when you normally hear a few solenoids clicking and HVAC motors humming?

Not checked all fuses yet. Had a brief look at the Engine Management fuses in the Engine Compartment fuse box. They were OK. Will have a look at the rest in the morning...and remove the door card etc. if necessary.

Anyone know how to disable the EPB or Steering Lock without power, just in case I have to call recovery?

Thanks,
Unbeliever.

No way to release those without power...

Flatbed tow truck with pulley if necessary so don't worry about steering column lock or EPB.......sounds like an immobilizer issue but there are two very knowledgeable posters in this thread (not me!) so definitely try what they suggest unless you are strapped for time.

This type of issue fills me with dread.
I'll happily play with old cars with plugs and points but modern stuff is way too complex to do more than basic maintenance for the average DIYer
At least on the freelander you can release the EPB to ft rear brake pads without resorting to a computer, my wife's VW Tiguan needs software and a laptop. I cant justify shelling out for the proper VW vagcom or Rosstec VCDS just to do that one task so considered one of the Chinese copies but dire warnings about causing the type of issue you have experienced put me off.
I really hope you issue is something simple and easily resolved. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Oh dear I wish you well with it,Alex and Stuart are your knights in shining Freelanders on here

Unbeliever wrote:

RCM B0070-13 Driver Seatbelt Pretensioner “A” Deployment Control: Circuit Open
.

Vanny,

I've not seen the source vehicle so don't know if it was crashed or not. I did notice the label on the pre-tensioner on the replacement seat was scrubbed off, like it had moved an inch or so. Didn't observe the cable being shorted but didn't really check tbh.

Alex,

Managed to get the window up by removing the door card an applying 12v directly to the motor, thanks for the tip.

Update:

Re-connected the battery this morning - key fobs still not detected/responding. Still no interior lights on opening doors.

However, I did notice that the analogue clock stated to work. Also the Radio/Nav unit powered up and the touch-screen worked, but the Instrument Cluster control buttons didn't! I COULD turn the volume up and down using the steering wheel controls though?

Whilst I'd got the door card off I did also find that there was 12V to the Door ECU.

Also noticed that when I applied the EPB the light illuminated on the dash info screen and I heard a clicking from the motors.
When I tried to release the EPB there were no noises though. Also tried to put the EPB into service mode but without the Start/Stop button responding that didn't work.

Going to check the fuses now, although going to struggle with the boot/trunk ones as the tailgate is locked-closed. Are there any manual/cable releases for this?

Thanks again all.
Unbeliever.

Unless you are a wizard with the magic lantern equipment, the days of popping down to your local scrappy for a few parts seem to be over , if the parts have a cable sticking out of them ! Good luck with a happy result .

Last edited by CED on 3rd Oct 2020 9:12 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Unbeliever wrote:

Vanny,
I've not seen the source vehicle so don't know if it was crashed or not.

Quote:

the CJB (Central Junction Box) and BCM (Body Control Module) are both alive

Aren't they the same thing?...
That boxy thingy at the passenger feet with all those colored tiny bits on it?


And more one thing...
Even with the immo ON, the lights should work when opening a door...
The immo stuff is verified (only) when you press the start button...
But I may be wrong with the later cars...
To me still seems like some circuits/fuses are interrupted...

On the 13my+ CJB and BCM are in the same box, but not the same thing. Theres a good reason they are shown as different things in the wiring schematic. One can work without the other, leading to much head scratching.